Results 61 to 80 of 139
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07-14-2007, 10:16 PM #61
I got mine from Ebay too. I bought 2 cause I know its just a matter of time until the passenger side goes. I paid about 75.00 for both and 12.00 shipping. I followed the pics on the shoebox link and it worked great. The window rolls up much faster than when new. The biggest pain is the door panel. Just take your time so you dont break the hooks on the panel.
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07-15-2007, 11:14 AM #62
hmm....i got mine for $21 shipped ...its acutually pretty easy to do it...well i took off the speaker and using a mirror i saw where the nails or screws or whatever they are cuz there normal screws but anyway i just poped them out with a flat screw driver...there was just three so the was pretty easy...i didnt have to drill any holes or anything..i just unplugged the motor took it off replaced it and plugged it back in..it took about 45 min my first time..o yea grease up metal part on the motor
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07-23-2007, 04:30 AM #63
Great thread....after 32,000 miles, my driver's side window finally crapped out! I guess I'm heading to Auto Zone tonight!
2002 Camaro SS M6, 2.5 PRC 5.3L heads, TFS 228/230 cam, FAST 92, bolt ons + a 10 lb bottle in the back.
1989 Corvette L98, A4, Full bolt ons, etc.
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09-01-2007, 02:27 PM #64
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Posts
- 3
Black- 2000 Camaro Z28
Thanks for the install help.
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04-14-2008, 12:29 PM #65
All I have to say is WOW!! Thanks a million for this write up. It took me about 1 hour and 15 minutes to get the test point. I had my laptop out in the garage and followed step by step. probably good have done it quicker but first time out being very careful pulling and drilling things. Again, THANKS A MILLION, I SAVED BIG BUCKS DOING IT MYSELF.
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04-16-2008, 07:47 AM #66
my window has been giving me problems since last summer. i printed the pics from the sticky and im gonna go for it.
i may go the autozone route. it seems a little safer than ebay. with warranty and all.
thanks to everyoneWhisper Lid/SLP HarmonicBalancer/MAFTranslator/DiabloTuner A-Pillar Gauges (Aem Uego A/F,Trans Temp, D-Pic)Magnaflow CB w/CME Tips/ Eibach Pro Kit/ Brembo Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors/ H.I.D.Kit
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04-16-2008, 07:53 AM #67
i just called auto zone and the customer service rep said that there are 2 parts. the motor for 55 bucks and the motor w the regulator for 126.
how do i know if the regulator is bad too? is it all one part? WTF!!!!
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04-16-2008, 09:23 AM #68
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- TEXAS... U mad?
- Posts
- 6,158
Black / Stryker Blue- 2K WS.6/ 2K9 G8GT
just buy the motor. the regulator is the whole assm, track and all minus the motor
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04-17-2008, 05:51 AM #69
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Lockport, NY
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 99
Black- 99 Trans am Convertible
if the window goes up slanted just before it reaches the top then the regulator is shot too. one or more of the wheels could be bent. replaceing the whole thing is actually easier than just the motor. the motor bolts to the regulator and that bolts to the door. if u replace both at the same time you just drill out the rivits to the regulator and pull the whole unit out, glass and all.
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04-17-2008, 05:54 AM #70
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Lockport, NY
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 99
Black- 99 Trans am Convertible
and u can get both on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-99...spagenameZWDVW
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05-03-2008, 09:35 PM #71
well here is my problem, i bought the autozone motor drilled the wholes out blah blah blah got everything done. Then when i went to put the new motor in i got 2 of the screws in but the third hole doesnt line up so the screw is incapable of going through. What did i do wrong? please help...
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05-05-2008, 02:22 PM #72
Are you sure you set the motor gear teeth correctly? I did this install two weeks ago and I noticed that the autozone motor has less screw holes in it than the original. The top and bottom screws I found ok but the one cloeset to the speaker was a little off. I had to push the motor up a little to get it to line up. Make sure that you have the motor tilted and seated correct on the grear.
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05-19-2008, 12:19 PM #73
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- USA
- Posts
- 1
White- 99 Camaro Z28
I have a 99 Z28 with a dying Drivers Side Power Window. (rolls up, stops, wait, then continue).
I have a question I hope some of you might know an answer for:
Is there an upgrade to the motors that can be used to replace the original motors to gain more speed from the windows? They have always seemed slow since I purchased the car new and when asked, the GM Techs always said they were operating within specifications so no help there. Now that I have to replace one (both I'm sure soon) I wonder if there is a bigger/faster/quicker motor that will work as a replacement without changing everything within the door to get it to work correctly...if it's even possible?
Perhaps a motor from another GM product that's stronger? Tahoe or Suburban? :-)
Thanks to anybody with any insight or advice and thanks to all who posted instructions and help within this thread so far.
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05-19-2008, 12:44 PM #74
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Tulsa,OK
- Age
- 43
- Posts
- 914
Quick Silver- 2002 Z06
No bigger better motor out there but we make some wiring kits that provide the motors will proper power.
Do some a search on AutoTrix and you will find lots of info about us.
You can also see our comments page on our website www.autotrix.net
Slow Passenger Window - Want Passenger Express Down - Tired of Replacing DayTime Running Light Bulbs
Camaro Owners Click Here
Firebird Owners Click Here
Need instructions to replace your F-Body window motor?
www.AutoTrix.net
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05-20-2008, 03:54 AM #75
regarding the power window motors I installed a new regulator in my car a few weeks back and found out why the motor failed. The problem was the motor had been replaced and the nuts and bolts had all fallen apart and as a result the window and reg. separated so remember to install locktight to the bolts your installing or at least nylock nuts to prevent any bad stuff happening --- I installed a new gm reg and it works just great I was not to happy with the person before me cutting holes in the door to access the rivits I would recomment just buying the complete unit and doing it right the first time
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06-04-2008, 09:12 AM #76
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08-04-2008, 02:21 PM #77
I did my drivers side today, took about 2 hours total.
My only concern is now that the new motor is in there, the door panel seems to "bulge" a little more than before when going down, especially when it gets to the absolutely bottom.
Is this normal? Is it going to break anything?
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08-04-2008, 04:41 PM #78
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01-19-2009, 10:46 AM #79
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Location
- Stafford, VA
- Posts
- 35
Silver- 1998 TA Vert
One word of caution if getting the AutoZone part. If it doesn't fit right go back and get another one immediately! I spent about an hour and a half banging my head against the wall trying to figure out why I couldn't get anything to line up. Went back, got another one and had it in in about a minute. Sometimes the parts are different enough to cause problems...so it's not you it's the part.
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01-19-2009, 02:12 PM #80
Also, I believe that when you re-install the motor, it has to wind up the spring
a bit. I, of course, have found this out the hard way (is there another?). I did
my passenger side, and struggled greatly with installing the motor to the regulator, cussing, slicing skin, etc., but believe I got it done correctly. However, I think I didn't "wind" up the drivers side one enough, and ever since
it has always been "sloppy", not closing correctly, etc.
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