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  1. #41
    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Can't wait to see #'s! I was thinking about going with an LQ4 when replacing my motor but I ended up just going 346. I'm the same way as you, always thinking what if best of luck man!

  2. #42
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01ws6er View Post
    Can't wait to see #'s! I was thinking about going with an LQ4 when replacing my motor but I ended up just going 346. I'm the same way as you, always thinking what if best of luck man!
    Thanks, I will definitely get a couple pulls with sheets and post'em up here. Hoping this power will tidy me over for a little while. I know it wont.

    As I guy I work with says, "Thats the problem with you guys that like to go straight for a 1/4 mile, you never have enough horsepower."

    But thats also coming from the guy who crashed his BRAND NEW 2002 ZO6 into a wall on the second turn on a road corse (sp) and totaled it out. Within 3 months. 55K.
    Good guy though.

  3. #43
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Alright, Whats everyone's opinion on underdrive pulley's? I have heard some horror stories about them, and at the same time I want the extra HP while I have the pully off anyways.

    Whats everyone opinion on the UD pulley's?

  4. #44
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    There have been alot of talk about them on here with people on either side of the fence.

    I tried one and personally didn't like it so it came back off. Not only did it not yield me anything at the track "at all",,,,but it caused a couple of other issues I could not live with.
    Although charging was not really one of them. You will see the lights dim at night while idling, and with AC blowing, or defrost on, wipers etc...taxing the electrical system it can be very noticable. But this really didn't bother me. I never had battery problems.

    What did bother me is the fact that it slowed the water pump down so much to a point where my fans would continuously run due to the water not circulating fast enough while idling around. Especially if I sat still with the A/C blowing. Both fans would be full blast but I could watch the temp on the HPtuner scanner and see that the temp wasn't going down and would sometimes even creep up depending on outside ambient temps.
    I could stick the car in neutral and hold the motor at 1,500 rpms and watch the temp start to drop,,,and the fans would kick off,,,telling me that the water pump was simply running too slow.
    We are talking Ohio temps,,,not extremely hot. I noticed this problem once ambient temps hit about 85 degrees.

    Knowing that we were moving to Arizona where temps can pass 100 easily,,,this just wouldn't be acceptable. I was worried about sitting in traffic with the A/C blowing, and believe me Phoenix has some horrible traffic.
    So the pulley came back off. Now the fans hardly come on, and when sitting still they cycle perfectly, only running for a minute tops and bringing the temp right back down while the engine is idling at only 750 rpms.

    Thats just my experience. Others like them. All I can tell ya is try it for yourself and see what you find. Always seems like people are wanting these things so if you don't like it,,,,it's easy to sell.

  5. #45
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    (didnt remember this thread)

    Well, Comp fnally gave my builder an answer. More so, my builder finally gave me an asnwer.

    236/240 .578 .589 on a 114. 110 ICL

    He says this cam will clear, im not too sure. Wondering on your guys opinions really. Im ready to order it, and my other necessity's. If it does, it should make some good power with the heads.


    Almost NO WAY is that gonna clear the pistons safely with 56cc heads... just flycut and be done. You will glad you kept the compression. Also, those are some small chambers, DO THE DCR calcs and make sure you don't come up too high. That cam is much better at bleeding off cyl pressure down low than a baby cam, but on a 114LSA it's still gonna be borderline. A 112 would get the DCR down further...

  6. #46
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    Almost NO WAY is that gonna clear the pistons safely with 56cc heads... just flycut and be done. You will glad you kept the compression. Also, those are some small chambers, DO THE DCR calcs and make sure you don't come up too high. That cam is much better at bleeding off cyl pressure down low than a baby cam, but on a 114LSA it's still gonna be borderline. A 112 would get the DCR down further...
    What about a 230/236. .573 .578 114?

    Thats what I ended up going with. I can not believe how many mixed opinions I have gotten from this. TSP, COMP, Tech, LS1, 2 different race shops. I cant get a solid answer anywhere.

  7. #47
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    What about a 230/236. .573 .578 114?

    Thats what I ended up going with. I can not believe how many mixed opinions I have gotten from this. TSP, COMP, Tech, LS1, 2 different race shops. I cant get a solid answer anywhere.
    Thats why I stated it would have been best to check your piston to valve clearance in the procedure I posted above before ordering anything.

    Very easy to do on an engine already assembled. It can be done easily while it's in the car too. You only had to check one cylinder,,,the easiest cylinder accessable would have worked fine.

  8. #48
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    What about a 230/236. .573 .578 114?

    Thats what I ended up going with. I can not believe how many mixed opinions I have gotten from this. TSP, COMP, Tech, LS1, 2 different race shops. I cant get a solid answer anywhere.
    nah, not and meet the 0.080" spec. The ones who say otherwise must be pandering for sales. It will be past irresponsible if clearance does not get verified.

  9. #49
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    nah, not and meet the 0.080" spec. The ones who say otherwise must be pandering for sales. It will be past irresponsible if clearance does not get verified.
    It will be checked, and rechecked. That F***ing sucks.

  10. #50
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    It needs to be checked regardless of the setup, so I wouldn't be too upset about it. Flycut if needed, it's really not a big deal. After this is all said and done, with the extra compression, you will happy that you kept the small chambered heads. The DCR is gonna be nuts with those heads and a stock cam... I'd be surprised if that even works with pump fuel!

  11. #51
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    It needs to be checked regardless of the setup, so I wouldn't be too upset about it. Flycut if needed, it's really not a big deal. After this is all said and done, with the extra compression, you will happy that you kept the small chambered heads. The DCR is gonna be nuts with those heads and a stock cam... I'd be surprised if that even works with pump fuel!
    How much does flycutting USUALLY cost? Do I have to get the engine re-balanced? I have heard of some people doing it with the engine still in frame. DOes it have to come out?


    I have been running this setup for awhile. Over 7000 miles with stock cam. Pulls like a freight train down low. Is that what you were talking about? Whats the max Dynamic CR with 93 octane? Does anyone have a dynamic compression ratio calculator that even my POS Mac computer can download? I dont have powerpoint or anything.

  12. #52
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    about 8.7:1.... I'm sure if you have been tuned that it has been addressed, you just need to pull a lot of timing right off idle. I don't know what flycutting costs; I have never charged or been charged for it, but i do know that it's not a huge deal. No engine balancing, they will all be cut the same amount, it doesn't have to come out, just have to have the heads off.

  13. #53
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    He has dished pistons (-12cc if I recall) Frost.

  14. #54
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    He has dished pistons (-12cc if I recall) Frost.
    so the motor is built (for boost seemingly), it has ported heads, and a stock cam??

  15. #55
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    so the motor is built (for boost seemingly), it has ported heads, and a stock cam??
    That is how I understand it.

  16. #56
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Yes, the motor has a dished piston. I thought it was -10cc. It may be 12. Its an LQ4 low compression motor. 9.4 with the stock heads on the shortblock.

  17. #57
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    oh hell, well check it, but it should clear plus some

  18. #58
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    oh hell, well check it, but it should clear plus some
    Well we will have to see. Already ordered

    Thanks for your help guys.

  19. #59
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Well, I now get to change my rear main seal. Leaking like a sumbitch. Pulling the transmission in the next week. Looks like the top end of the motor will be coming off, Tranny coming out, and rear end gears are coming out. Awesome!

  20. #60
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    I have an lq4 in my Trans am and the dish's are deep. I am running an f14 cam with .025 off the heads with a lot of ptv.
    In my Nova I have 4 cc mahle flat tops and the reliefs are no deeper then my lq4 dish pistons and I have 54 cc 5.3 heads on this motor with a 239/243 612 lift cam on a 112lsa 110 cl. I have .220 on the intake, .190 exh. You should be fine, just check to make sure.

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