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Thread: Seafoam
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06-26-2008, 06:45 PM #21
Alright, I am totally behind on this stuff. You dont really have to explain it anymore to me. I got the just of it, if i need more ill google it. Heard the name seafoam before, but never heard what to do with it. Sounds strange.
And to add a little note, MMO _ Marvel Mystery Oil is what I use to oil ALL my air tools at work. We have gallon jugs, at work of this stuff, and with all the old timers I work with, Im really surprised I haven't heard of it.
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06-26-2008, 10:45 PM #22
No you don't have to but it is a good idea. To do it correctly you should stall the motor out about 1/2 through the can and allow it to site for 5 min then restart and suck the other half of the can. Then I go beat the shit out of the car. Finishing with a nice 20-30 mile drive cycle on the freeway.
Followed by a fresh oil change with Amsoil or PP.
There will be some "blow-by" by the rings that will contaminate the oil. So yes once again it is a good idea to change it afterwords.
I only add it to the oil on cars that are sludged up from lack of maintenance.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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07-01-2008, 06:59 PM #23
so when you add it to the TB you use the brake booster line? just poor it in?
Used it on my 06 hemi ram and just poured it into the TB untill is tried to stall.
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07-01-2008, 07:49 PM #24
Yeah your best off to suck it through the brake booster line.
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07-03-2008, 12:24 PM #25
i would think it would be better on an LS1 to run some through the brake booster line, and possibly some through the throttle body. With how much oil these motors consume over time becuase of the crapy pcv design, getting seafoam on both ends of the intake might help remove some of the crap thats built up in there over time.
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07-03-2008, 01:20 PM #26
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07-03-2008, 01:46 PM #27
I bought the deep creep aerosal and did the brake boost and then sprayed about half a can of the spray into the intake after removing it. Seemed to work well.
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07-09-2008, 03:10 PM #28
I've never used seafoam but I've been hearing a lot about it lately....I'm thinking that I'll give it a try soon...
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07-09-2008, 03:49 PM #29
the kid next door used some seafoam on his jeep and man did that thing smoke! he was scared so i told what i had read about it and that it was normal.....he took it for a ride and came back grinning ear to ear...he said that it had never run that good b4
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07-15-2008, 08:57 AM #30
SeaFoam
Well I have been back east for a couple weeks now and have SeaFoamed 4 cars while being here with great results on ALL with NO issue's. One was on a LT-1 powered car that had only 77,000 miles and God did it smoke for a while. When we hit the main road and had a car coming in the opisite direction I would get a kickdown into first from 35-40 and it's a 4 lane the car had to stop because it was like a James Bond smoke screen. . . . . . . . . .

All the cars had a smother idle and I'm sure lost added compression due to the massive carbon build up on the piston face/head. Plus cars that are babied get a nice sludge build up on the intake valve stem that the SeaFoam breaks down too.
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07-15-2008, 09:14 AM #31rapter34Guest
I just love the stuff so cheap but does a fantasic job. you don't need all the fancy expensive stuff that claims all this BS just an great product in a simple can. what is more gear head than that!
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07-15-2008, 09:38 AM #32
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07-24-2008, 06:39 PM #33
so I want to seafoam my car tm and change the oil but I don't want to run it through the fuel system. Sarge has came up with a new way to clean and lube your fuel system. will the seafoam be as effective and what hose to I pull off the TB to suck in the second half and the first half I just dumb in like oil correct. So start her up dump in half the can then suck the rest though the house let sit for a little bit. Then go drive the hell out of it and cruz for a little then change the oil. Any down side to this my plan is to get up early put the stuff in let her sit for 30 mins then drive the hella out of it on my way to work about 15 miles. then drive back after work and change the oil any problem with letting it sit before changing the oil.
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07-24-2008, 09:58 PM #34JOSEY FUCKING WALES!
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07-25-2008, 07:18 AM #35

I've just started messing with the 2 cycle so I can't tell if one's better than the other. I believe that the seafoam is much harsher and is going to clean out the gunk fast and furious. Which is why you don't want to leave it in for a long period whereas the 2 cycle in the fuel system seems to be slower cleaner/maintanence tool from what I've read. That's just my opinion and hopefully someone else will chime in.
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07-25-2008, 12:51 PM #36Impounded
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79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
I agree. I think that 2 cycle is just making a higher quality fuel/lube so I would dump the piss outta the seafoam. I guess I would think of it as a catalyst that would speed up the effects of the 2 cycle oil.
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07-25-2008, 03:57 PM #37
all this people are saying about stop the engine this and wait so long that is kind of the shot in the dark without the science; the observation of what works and what doesn't without understanding.
what you want is to drain it in as slowly as possible, which is why you're better off putting it in through the brake booster line. it's slow enough to work well, but fast enough you don't die of old age before you finish the can.
in any case, on to the science, and i'll try to make it brief and simple. my understanding is that basically, anything that doesn't burn well may potentially help clean the inside of the engine. chemistry takes over to determine what does a good job. let's take water for example, because it does the exact same thing, but it's free. you let the hose slowly suck a water bottle down. the water is slowly entering your engine, and as it does, it is both heated and expanded by the heat of the engine's parts and the vacuum experienced in the intake manifold. the cool H2O absorbs heat from wherever it can. carbon deposits hold heat like nobody's business. when these carbon deposits are cooled by the H2O - rapidly, the way we are injecting it - they crack, like any other brittle material that is rapidly cooled. once cracked, they are easily ejected out the engine.
now, you want it to go slowly because you don't want to break off big chunks and send the chunks through your engine.
that said, it won't really help clean your lines any more than plain water will clean greasy hands; it's the same thing. you need either an oil-based/nonpolar solvent or a soap (which inverts nonpolar molecules into polar configurations so water can carry them away).
also to note is that those carbon deposits may be helping the valve seals and/or piston rings do their jobs, especially on older engines, so be wary of doing this to older engines. they may burn oil much more quickly afterwards. whether or not they will run better depends on how much oil they burn afterwards. it's also possible that the tiny chunks of carbon can scratch the valve faces/seats, since some forms of carbon have higher hardness than steel. i've seen this first hand, though not on my own car, and i refuse to use water or seafoam or oil ever again. i'd rather have a little carbon in there than have my car smoke forever.
hope i've cleared some things up, and more than that, i hope my understanding of the topic is correct
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~Jason
2005 Acura RSX: Daily Driver duties
1994 Toyota Corolla: the beater that just won't die!
"Fast, Cheap, Reliable. You can only have two."
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07-25-2008, 04:39 PM #38
The car has 140xxx on it so a little worried about messing up the injectors. It doesn't burn oil so i'm not too worried about seafoaming the engine. Yeah theres a chance that the carbon is holding shit together but if thats the case I'd rather it fail me now then do it out of nowhere when i'm on a lone cruise of something. In the long run though the 2 stroke should clean at a slower rate but will still take care of the fuel systems. So how do you guys suggest I do this I got the oil for the oil change a can of seafoam whats the best way to get this through the motor.
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07-25-2008, 05:03 PM #39Impounded
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79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
Run a 1/2 can through the oil. Drive 100-150 miles. Dump the oil, replace. Mine was thicker than snot at 2500 miles after seafoam.I bought some crap oil(supertech) and ran it through the engine till it poured out clear. Now at 3k it appears light brown.
98 with 150xxx
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07-25-2008, 05:11 PM #40
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