Fear the bottle or fear your tune?

[9secZ06]

The way we do it down south is is to put the timing in the toilet and slowly bring it back up while looking at the knock sensors on the dyno. Not everyone can/will do this, but it is the safest way, AFR and timing will determine if u make power or if your engine will now fit loosly in a 5 gallon bucket..........

[ShiznityZ28]

Spary the inside of the MAF.

I'm referring to the Spark Plugs.



AUTOLITE RACE PLUG (AR93) ON THE LEFT. NGK TR55 ON THE RIGHT.
You tell me. There is a reason the NGK's are available at any parts store. They are a plane jane replacement spark plug. It still blows my mind at how many think they are a great nitous plug.
A true "nitrous" plug needs to be designed to handle extreme cylinder pressures not just a colder heat range stock plug. Yeah they work but that doesn't mean squat. I also blow 300 through stock motors but that doesn't make it right.

The plug you should run with 150 or less is the next one up from the one in the pic a AR94. Anything more than 150 you should go with the AR93.

Just so you know if you melt an outo light racing plug you will have engine damage. the metal has a much higher melting point than the piston.

It is a wiser decision to tune it on the NGK's if you get somethign wrong and melt one theres still a good change the motor is ok. But once you have the tune right the Autolite is a better plug and will make more passes if your into not changing them.

A good starter plug is the iridium no protruding tip IK 33's or IT 31's there expensive but iridium has a low melting point. I melted 2 of them in the 2nd rd of pumpgas drags on a 350 shot on 94 octain . we pulled 2 more out put them in took 2 degrees of timming out and went faster to the 8th than I had been to that point (5.7) leaked the motor down when we got home and the 2 cyl wit hteh melted plugs were still at 20% leak.