Would a small hole in the TB blade cause all of these problems?

**Hurley711** · 07-23-2007, 06:54 PM

should I drill a stock size hole back in mine?

**edcmat-l1** · 07-24-2007, 04:38 AM

How Do You Know The Hole Wasnt Stock Size To Begin With! Drill Out The Pop Rivet, And Get It Tuned!
And Start By Reading The Posts In Your Own Thread!

**Hurley711** · 07-24-2007, 03:30 PM

Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

How Do You Know The Hole Wasnt Stock Size To Begin With! Drill Out The Pop Rivet, And Get It Tuned!
And Start By Reading The Posts In Your Own Thread!

HOW ABOUT YOU READ POST # 1 TO START OFF. THAT'S RIGHT POST #1, WHICH CLEARLY STATES THAT A BIGGER HOLE WAS DRILLED IN BY A PREVIOUS TUNER! POST #1 ALSO MENTIONS THAT IT HAS BEEN TUNED.................TWICE! SO WHY DON'T YOU READ UP A LITTLE BIT BEFORE BEING A SMARTASS!

**edcmat-l1** · 07-24-2007, 03:43 PM

Originally Posted by Hurley711

HOW ABOUT YOU READ POST # 1 TO START OFF. THAT'S RIGHT POST #1, WHICH CLEARLY STATES THAT A BIGGER HOLE WAS DRILLED IN BY A PREVIOUS TUNER! POST #1 ALSO MENTIONS THAT IT HAS BEEN TUNED.................TWICE! SO WHY DON'T YOU READ UP A LITTLE BIT BEFORE BEING A SMARTASS!

I read it. And still recommend you get it tuned. Obviously your tuner is not capable of tuning it to remove the surge. I'm not being a smart ass, by any means. Its not any big deal to tune the thing, even with a larger than stock hole drilled.
You post "I just learned they come with a hole from the factory" days after someone posts that very fact. Makes you look like you're not even reading your own thread.
Tell me how stating that you just learned they come from the factory with a hole is some kind of revelation, after it was posted in your own thread days before.

**STREETSHARKLS1** · 08-13-2007, 11:32 AM

when i drive it awhile then stop turn the car off, like going into a store! when you restart look at your volts. below 13volts? and starts surging while backing up sometimes dieing???

**jimmy77611** · 08-13-2007, 11:58 AM

I think you should drill a stock size hole. Does anyone know what size the stock hole is???????????????????

**Doc99SS** · 08-19-2007, 07:08 PM

Another thing that I would do, is to find someone who can do data logging while you drive. Find out what the MAF readings are, engine RPM, fuel trims, and idle air motor (how many counts do you have at idle). You want the minimum assist from the IAC motor for an improved idle. This minimum assist will determine the size of hole you should have in the TB plates. When the idle surges to 1500 RPM, what is the IAC doing? You can only get these answers with data logging.

Good luck with your problem, I know from personal experience just how fustrating they can be.

**Killer_bluebird** · 08-20-2007, 11:06 PM

This is what worked for me. I was having the same problem mostly with the AC on only. After trying a few other things to no avail, I copied my stock "Throttle Cracker Airflow" table (this was zeroed by previous tuner) then I went on a drive. I would hold a certain speed lets say 36mph then press the clutch. The rpms would immediately jump to like 1600-1700rpms. I would then look in the 36mph and 1600rpms value on the table and reduce it by .5 g/sec upload the tune then rinse and repeat until the rpms start falling close to your idle speed. Once closer you may want to work in .25 g/sec intervals and so on. It took me a couple hours driving around and changing values to get it nailed but it was worth it. No more hanging idle.

**Doc99SS** · 08-22-2007, 03:58 PM

It really helps a ton if you can data log driving sessions. The value of this is critical for drivibility issues.

**Frost** · 08-27-2007, 03:38 PM

Originally Posted by Killer_bluebird

This is what worked for me. I was having the same problem mostly with the AC on only. After trying a few other things to no avail, I copied my stock "Throttle Cracker Airflow" table (this was zeroed by previous tuner) then I went on a drive. I would hold a certain speed lets say 36mph then press the clutch. The rpms would immediately jump to like 1600-1700rpms. I would then look in the 36mph and 1600rpms value on the table and reduce it by .5 g/sec upload the tune then rinse and repeat until the rpms start falling close to your idle speed. Once closer you may want to work in .25 g/sec intervals and so on. It took me a couple hours driving around and changing values to get it nailed but it was worth it. No more hanging idle.

If your running airflow is correct then you don't need to spend hours on your TC and it takes a fraction of the time. The engine acts more "natural" with the TC table zero'd. In the TC table, except for the 0 MPH row, set the 400 RPM coulumn to 1.5g to "catch" things if they dip for some reason. Also, under engine torque, there is a table to describe the tq loss at compressor onset and some ramp in and out times. This is generally what is used to adjust for AC on cammed (or wilder) cars.

**Killer_bluebird** · 08-27-2007, 05:47 PM

I'll keep that in mind. I'm always playing with my tune as I'm learning more. So what specifically will I need to change and which way up or down, etc.?