missfire on cylinder 6

**Cutlass** · 06-20-2011, 06:26 PM

Are you sure you are swapping the #6 cylinder plug,wire,coil, and injector with another? If you do have the correct cylinder, then the next step is to test for injector drive with a noid light. after that it could low compression on that cylinder caused by valvetrain issues or piston ring issues.

**Cutlass** · 06-20-2011, 06:33 PM

Also some people have had misfire issues with the E3 plugs. You could try swapping them out and see what happens.

**JayTA98** · 06-21-2011, 07:19 AM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

Are you sure you are swapping the #6 cylinder plug,wire,coil, and injector with another? If you do have the correct cylinder, then the next step is to test for injector drive with a noid light. after that it could low compression on that cylinder caused by valvetrain issues or piston ring issues.

I wonder too. I mean is possible he has a PCM/wiring issue but I only seen 1 person in this site having issues with the PCM.

**SMWS6TA** · 06-21-2011, 09:01 AM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

Also some people have had misfire issues with the E3 plugs. You could try swapping them out and see what happens.

this is what I'd do.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-21-2011, 10:49 AM

Yes i was swapping everything from cylinder 6 to 4. And i no my spark plugs are good because i held the spark plug to the header when it was plugged intoo the coil pack to check for spark and there def was.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-21-2011, 01:01 PM

How are you clearing the code from the PCM?

Can you physically feel the misfire or hear it or are you simply going by what your scanner is telling you?

**Cutlass** · 06-21-2011, 05:28 PM

Originally Posted by lsmaxxed

And i no my spark plugs are good because i held the spark plug to the header when it was plugged intoo the coil pack to check for spark and there def was.

Thats a ok test, but thats not a 100% accurate spark test. There are spark tests tools designed for high energy ignitions that test the system more rigorously. if a spark jumps the gap in those testers, you can consider the spark to be very strong.
And in that same regard, testing a spark plug out in the open air vs. the harsh, pressurized environment inside the cylinder are 2 different things. 99% of bad spark plugs test good out in the open, but won't spark in a pressurized chamber.
With all that being said, there's a good chance your issues isn't spark plug related since you swapped plugs across 2 cylinders with no change.

What's all the recent history with this car? What changes have you made and did the car run ok before those changes?

**Smittro** · 06-21-2011, 05:35 PM

What color was the spark when you tested?

**lsmaxxed** · 06-21-2011, 05:37 PM

before i bought the obd2 reader to reset the codes, i unplugged the battery for 10 minutes. The history is the car ran great after i put on longtubes ory no cat. But the ses light was on for no cat. I kept driving it no problems, then i took off the a.i.r. Pump and put in block off plates and the ses light started flashing so i bought a scanner and reads p0301 missfire on 6 cylinder and i cant for the life of me figure it out. I cant really hear a miss all that much im thinking not internal. But there is a video on my other thread of the problem.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-21-2011, 05:58 PM

I bet you have a vacuum leak...

**JayTA98** · 06-21-2011, 06:18 PM

I cant remember if i ask this but did you put gaskets in the block off plates? Did you put back the relay that you said you pull? Did you put back the AIR fuse?

the only thing that can happen from removing the AIR system is a vaccum leak. It could be a coincidence that you have another problem related. all your fuses good? I remember you mention a fuse kept burning out.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-22-2011, 06:24 PM

I reused the garskets for the block off plates right now the fuse and relay is back in. And the ses light blew 2 times when it was running rich and dumping black crap out the exhaust. It stopped doing this when i unplugged the a.i.r. Solenoid sensor and put a straight vaccum line from the passenger side directly into the intake manifold so there is no vaccum t or block off, it just goes straight in.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-24-2011, 02:33 PM

car still not running

**Smittro** · 06-24-2011, 02:39 PM

Again...What was the color or the spark you saw when you, "tested" #6 ???

**jasonj** · 06-24-2011, 04:14 PM

You need to find someone with a scanner that can do a crank sensor relearn . Had a 2000 trans am with same problem

**JayTA98** · 06-24-2011, 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by jasonj

You need to find someone with a scanner that can do a crank sensor relearn . Had a 2000 trans am with same problem

i tought you only need that when you replace the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor.

**jasonj** · 06-24-2011, 04:50 PM

That's what I found to fix the problem . I went through ever thing also .

**lsmaxxed** · 06-28-2011, 01:28 PM

Alright idk what gives but i just put all of my a.i.r. stuff back on and it runs fine now. any explanations?

**Cutlass** · 06-28-2011, 07:11 PM

Well, good news is, you are making progress!! I'd guess your block off plates were leaking or you had a vacuum leak from the AIR vacuum line.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-29-2011, 02:12 PM

How can i properly remove this a.i.r. without any problems? because i know that the block off plates were tight and i am using the same gasket with it on now.