Sometimes Security Light, No Start - Starter?

[Kaotic_ws6]

I would say that you either have the resistors wired in wrong or the wrong resistors. Once those are in you should be pass all the time. Do you remember what tolerance resistors you bought? Should find gold banded resistors which are 5% tolerance resistors. Sounds like yours might be drifting out of tolerance maybe?? Just a guess though.

idk, your prolly right,i didnt do the bypass, the previous owner did i dont know much about that stuff

[Smittro]

Maybe this will help..

[0rion]

it's all right in this link and you can check it pretty easy.....

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...t=resistor+key

[Kaotic_ws6]

it's all right in this link and you can check it pretty easy.....

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...t=resistor+key

thanks.. you to smittro

[Smittro]

thanks.. you to smittro

No prob good luck.

[clovenhooves]

a rough explanation of how it works is that pellet (resistor) that's in the key gets put into the ignition cylinder. There are 2 wires in the ignition that touch either side of that pellet and read the resistance. The vats module then decides whether to enable the fuel pump and starter. On light on conditions when the car starts I'm not entirely sure what goes on there. I've suspected that the key reads the resistance but it's either slightly out of tolerance or it's intermittent and the module allows the car to start. Those wires over time just get wore down to where they won't make good contact. You can try to clean your key pellet with a pencil eraser but pretty much every time I've heard of this issue it's in the cylinder.
The link up there has a very detailed "how to" description on fixing it. There are basically 2 wires coming down the column and into a plug that goes to the module. You measure your key's resistance and cut those wires. Solder or tape the resistors across those wires and plug the plug back in. To get to the wires there are a couple screws on the kick panel under the steering wheel. It takes 30 minutes or less to do even for someone that's a novice at working on cars.
The drawback is you no longer have vats protection on the car so if the security side of it is important to you then you will probably want a pro to look at it and replace that cylinder.

That's a biggie. The link should say more about it. Lose the Security light, the flashing light on the dashboard, the honking that occurs when playing with the passenger door lock? No deal for me. Now I'll worry whether a professional can replicate the problem.

[0rion]

That's a biggie. The link should say more about it. Lose the Security light, the flashing light on the dashboard, the honking that occurs when playing with the passenger door lock? No deal for me. Now I'll worry whether a professional can replicate the problem.

all that stuff is still functional.....the only thing that isn't is the vats module. I would say from the sounds of it taking it to someone is probably your best bet.

[clovenhooves]

You mean I shouldn't be trusted to do more than drive the car? I agree. Unfortunately, all I know now is that it isn't the battery or alternator, so probably it is the VATS. I was reading up about it, to confirm that all it does it shut down the ignition if it thinks a theft attempt is occurring. "If an incorrect resistance is detected by the VATS module after the engine is running, the VATS module will allow the vehicle to be restarted, even with an existing failure." - me confused. Does that mean that, sooner of later, the Security light will come on in the middle of a trip? That hasn't happened.