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Thread: brake pad and rotor upgrade????
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04-28-2007, 10:34 PM #1
brake pad and rotor upgrade????
Just wanted to know what you guys suggest , I want to get better rotors and brake pads. Nothing too pricey.....thanks for the help.......
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04-28-2007, 10:52 PM #2
I bought EBC drilled/slotted. The drills and slots are not all the way through so it gives it more strength and they still cool quicker. got all 4 rotors and Hawk Performance HPS pads for around $580. Or you can go a cheaper route and get Rotoworks drilled/slotted for around $170 + HPS pads for $130 bringing the total to around $300 plus shipping. If you want any info pm me. I will send you the site.
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04-29-2007, 05:10 AM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
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- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Drilled rotors will crack if they get too hot.
Slotted rotors can help if the car is under a LOT of heavy braking...like an AutoX or road course.
Otherwise I stick with OEM pads and rotors.
The best way to get more braking power is new fluid, stainless lines, and new pads.
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04-29-2007, 05:29 AM #4
I got drilled and slotted rotors for my car. The factory style rotors warp way to easily. I'm not even hard on my car. Even my rear rotors warped.
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04-29-2007, 05:38 AM #5
as dumb as it might sound, how do you put on your wheels? or how were they put on when they warped? make sure to use the star pattern and don't use the air gun until you want some help torqing. I do mine by hand and use a torq wrench. Its a little extra work but well worth it.
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04-29-2007, 05:44 AM #6
I did all of that and even made the dealership give me new rotors when it was still under warranty. (that was an ordeal) They just kept warping. Since I got the drilled rotors I have not had a problem. Well worth the money in my book. (I never us an air gun. I just don't trust them. I don't even like using them when taking the tire off)
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04-29-2007, 06:10 AM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
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- Thornton, CO
- Posts
- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
That sucks.
On the other end of that...I still run my stock rotors and GM pads. No problems.
Clean fluid and good pads keeps her stopping fine.
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04-29-2007, 06:29 AM #8
Just let me say about my former statement. I'm not saying stock rotors and pads suck and are crappy. I'm just saying I had no luck with them.
Last edited by Kup98ss; 04-29-2007 at 07:35 AM.
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04-29-2007, 07:35 AM #9
I had the same problem with my stock rotors. I replaced them after the second set warped by about 30000 kms with a set of Powerslot and Hawk pads and no problems since. I'm at about 55000 kms now.
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04-29-2007, 11:52 AM #10
I've seen stock rotors crack, and I've heard about drilled/slotted (if they are drilled all the way through) crack, but haven't heard anything bad about the dimpled drilled/slotted rotors. Mine are great under heavy braking, daily driving, and anything else I choose to do.
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04-29-2007, 03:35 PM #11
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- eastbumblefukk
- Posts
- 10
- 2002 t/a ws6
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04-29-2007, 08:19 PM #12
what kind of rotors did you have horhay???
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05-02-2007, 02:12 PM #13
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- eastbumblefukk
- Posts
- 10
- 2002 t/a ws6
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05-03-2007, 06:17 PM #14
i have 30,000 miles stock everything and if i had brand new pads would i fell any diff from buying a good set of just pads.
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05-03-2007, 06:18 PM #15
and also would be the best pads that would be good for me since its almosst time for them
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05-04-2007, 03:45 AM #16
- Join Date
- Jun 2002
- Location
- Montreal, CANADA
- Age
- 49
- Posts
- 3,190
triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
best thing is to get blank rotors (Brembo replacement rotors are great) and a good set of pads... and bleed the system once in awhile.
Eugenio_SS
almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)
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05-04-2007, 08:00 AM #17
i did the ws6 store drill/slotted rotors with ceramic pads and have been very happy......so far all for 300.00
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05-04-2007, 02:21 PM #18
yea i think i saw that deal. thks
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05-04-2007, 10:40 PM #19
Brembo blanks work great (have them on my car), ceramic pads, SST brake lines & full synthetic brake fluid (Valvoline is reasonably priced, has a higher boiling point than regular fluid and is 100 % compatible with reg. fluid). I have all these parts on my car, over 30K with no rotor warping. Completely flush the system with synthetic fluid if you change over to it - while you can mix the two fluids, you'll get better results when you run all synthetic fluid.
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