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  1. #21
    Junior Member dixieboy's Avatar
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    torch red
    1999 T.A /A4/ T-top

    opps. by bad working on all the FORD's has clouded my brain when I need to work on a real car.

  2. #22
    Junior Member dixieboy's Avatar
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    torch red
    1999 T.A /A4/ T-top

    Well I guess there are a few of FORD's that are real car's
    Last edited by dixieboy; 02-02-2007 at 08:08 AM. Reason: opps

  3. #23
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    Black
    2002 T/A WS6

    you have 2 ball joints on each side upper and lower from what it sound like they need to be replaced the go through the upper and lower control arms and into the metal brace (cant think of the name) that the spindle is on which your rotors go on to. they arnt hard to replace will take some time and tools you can get from local auto store (loan tools) like auto zone...
    i would check them before anything else i have seen these fall out before on a 95 chevy truck and its not a pretty site... not sure if the fbodies have 2 on each side havent looked and cant check right now, i have replaced these on my 72 cheyenne... should stop the poping/knocking sounds when making sharp turns. here a link to give you an idea of where they are..

    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...ng/l/bl307.htm

  4. #24
    car smart member
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    white
    2000 / TA ...lol

    noise

    You are suppose to push down on the car twice and then let go and watch how many times it recoils (bounces). I think I mislead you last time.

  5. #25
    Mosler MT900 S Secret Formula's Avatar
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    Arctic White Hardtop
    '98 Formula M6

    oh true, so... if it continues to bounce, the shocks are worn out, but if it only comes back up once, they are fine?

  6. #26
    car smart member
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    white
    2000 / TA ...lol

    shocks

    I would just replace the shocks and not the springs. The stock springs are not that bad so I would just upgrade the actual shock. I dont think you could replace the shock on your own because you need coil spring compressors and some time. If you are going to do it by hand, then set aside the afternoon for it. Otherwise with air tools i can do the whole rear in 45 minutes! Nevertheless take your time because making sure everything is seated properly is the key.

  7. #27
    Mosler MT900 S Secret Formula's Avatar
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    Arctic White Hardtop
    '98 Formula M6

    should I get Koni's? or is there somthing cheaper that is just as good?

  8. #28
    Mosler MT900 S Secret Formula's Avatar
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    Arctic White Hardtop
    '98 Formula M6

    Okay, I just talked to my cousin who is a mechanic at a saturn dealership, he knows a ton of stuff about f-bodys and or GM cars too, he said the shocks are a good start but I should also check all my bushings, and the idle arm. I guess I am lucky to have mechanic in my family.
    Last edited by Secret Formula; 02-02-2007 at 03:58 PM.

  9. #29
    car smart member
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    white
    2000 / TA ...lol

    noise

    I would replace both front lower ball joints and while you are there getsome polyurethane bushings for the swaybar. The ball joint is a mother to replace because it has to be pressed in.I can do it without a press but leave it to a pro to do it right the first time. In parts you will probably spend 60-70. Go with KONI it's worth the money

  10. #30
    car smart member
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    white
    2000 / TA ...lol

    Noise

    No offense but tell your cousin it aint the idler arm. I have only seen them go bad from wrecks not from daily use. I wish I coulddrive the damn thing but sounds like you really need to take it to GM and let them diagnose it so u have someone knowledgable to point at if it doesnt fix it so you wont just be replacing parts. Replacing parts just cost too damn much.

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