SLP headers

**Chad97z** · 10-30-2006, 03:37 PM

What do you all think about these? They are guaranteed to produce more torque and horsepower than any other header with the same tube size and application currently available.

http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...C&BIG=30017C-1

Why are they $700+ ?

And don't forget .. they want $5 handling fee

**5.0THIS** · 10-30-2006, 03:44 PM

If you want midlength headers, AS&M are likely the best ones, a bit better than SLP. Also very expensive though. Long tubes are cheaper these days and will net similar power gains, with a slight loss in ground clearance.

**BlackLT1Z28** · 10-30-2006, 06:26 PM

Ahh...did nobody else see the bends in the primaries? Those things look silly. By the way, SLP always advertises their MAXIMUM gains on a product, not the average, so don't count on seeing their advertised gains. Its a gimmick, and SLP is always on the expensive side for most of their products. Just go with LT's.

**Chad97z** · 10-30-2006, 06:36 PM

So which has more gains, mid length or long tubes? or even "shorties" for that matter. I really fail to see the difference in short or long tubes as far as HP gains, I just think its best to avoid sharp bends in the pipes. But i've seen long tubes also and they do an immediate 90 degree turn.. maybe just like shorties. So who cares how long they are if there is no added resistance.? And I know SLP is top dollar, and then some. They rank up there with the dealership as far as I am concerned. And that is, never use them unless I have to.

**BlackLT1Z28** · 10-30-2006, 07:05 PM

Longtubes can net 25hp+ with a tune. Shorties...maybe 10. And with all that work of swapping manifolds, you might as well go big and just get the longtubes. Trust me, if there weren't any differences between shorties and lontubes, everyone would have done the shorties.

**5.0THIS** · 10-30-2006, 09:27 PM

Originally Posted by BlackLT1Z28

Longtubes can net 25hp+ with a tune. Shorties...maybe 10.

I'm really not sure where people get this missinformation from. Shorties arent nearly as bad as long tube owners make them out to be. The difference in long tubes making more power is in the length of the primaries. All of the headers that make the biggest gains will have 1.75 primaries. I have AS&M midlengths, and made 309rwhp on bolt ons (I dont even have all of the bolt ons)... You really wont see any difference between the headers I have and long tubes until well over 700rwhp. Rich Krause already proved it with a built and supercharged LT1. On a bolt on car, the difference you'll see between long tubes and shorties will likely be about 5-7 rwhp. I would put up my mids against any long tube header, and I have better ground clearance

**Chad97z** · 11-02-2006, 08:41 AM

I've never had headers, but my "logic" seems that any header with 1 3/4" primary would produce the same gains as any other header with 1 3/4" primaries regardless if they are short or long or basically if the connecting joint is down low or up high..Unless there is some really sharp bends coming directly out of engine.

One of my goals in getting headers(besides maximum gain) would be to simplify the installation by not getting a new y-pipe since I already have the higher performance factory y-pipe on my camaro. But if there is something better about long tubes, then I'd like to know what it is. I definately don't like the idea of loosing ground clearance. The last thing I need is a bent exhaust. And i'm not into retro fitting everything. I'd like to just do it at home. Not wanting to pay a muffler shop.

**Red on Red WS6** · 11-06-2006, 12:50 AM

I had the SLP headers on my 96 thinking I needed to keep it emissions legal. I felt I was down on power & thought it was my whole exhaust setup causing the problem. I had SLP shorties, factory Y pipe with cats, and flowmaster catback. I dynoed with my hotcam at 303 RWHP. I switched to Pacesetter Longtubes, and 2.5" X pipe setup into 2.5" by 18" dynomax bullets dumped at the axle. I could not be happier with my new setup, I love the sound and I gained 25 RWHP through the entire rpm range. If you are going to go with shorty's the SLP's are your best bet in my opinion. Just make sure you buy different header bolts, the one's they came with worked it way out even after tightening them up every couple days. Here is a couple links to some vids I have posted
http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=409
http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=152

**Red on Red WS6** · 11-06-2006, 12:54 AM

Originally Posted by Chad97z

What do you all think about these? They are guaranteed to produce more torque and horsepower than any other header with the same tube size and application currently available.

http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...C&BIG=30017C-1

Why are they $700+ ?

And don't forget .. they want $5 handling fee

They are so expensive because they are stainless steel and everything else besides Kooks are steel.

**Chad97z** · 11-06-2006, 05:30 AM

So you gained 25 HP from factory or 25 HP plus the 303?

And I dont understand what you mean when you said They are so expensive because they are stainless steel and everything else besides Kooks are steel... So basically you just said all headers are stainless steel and they are all the same construction. So that doesnt explain why SLP's are so high.

**Red on Red WS6** · 11-06-2006, 10:06 AM

Originally Posted by Chad97z

So you gained 25 HP from factory or 25 HP plus the 303?

And I dont understand what you mean when you said They are so expensive because they are stainless steel and everything else besides Kooks are steel... So basically you just said all headers are stainless steel and they are all the same construction. So that doesnt explain why SLP's are so high.

SLP Headers and Kooks Headers are the only stainless steel headers I know of. Most other header manufactures for example Jet hot, Hooker, Headman, Pacesetter make steel headers. The price of stainless is about 2.5 times the price of steel.

When I bought my car it had a flowmaster cat back I put down 256 at the wheels. My first mod was the same SLP header you are looking at a LT4 hot cam kit and a mail order tune. It then dynoed at 303 at the wheels. I thought 303 was a little low for a cammed car and suspected it was my entire exhaust setup holding me back. A year went by and I no longer needed to worry about emissions, so I bought Pacesetter long tubes Summit 2.5" x pipe kit, and dynomax bullets. I then dynoed at 328 at the wheels.

**oneBADDz** · 11-06-2006, 10:49 AM

Originally Posted by Red on Red WS6

I had the SLP headers on my 96 thinking I needed to keep it emissions legal. I felt I was down on power & thought it was my whole exhaust setup causing the problem. I had SLP shorties, factory Y pipe with cats, and flowmaster catback. I dynoed with my hotcam at 303 RWHP. I switched to Pacesetter Longtubes, and 2.5" X pipe setup into 2.5" by 18" dynomax bullets dumped at the axle. I could not be happier with my new setup, I love the sound and I gained 25 RWHP through the entire rpm range. If you are going to go with shorty's the SLP's are your best bet in my opinion. Just make sure you buy different header bolts, the one's they came with worked it way out even after tightening them up every couple days. Here is a couple links to some vids I have posted
http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=409
http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=152

those are the smokinest tires I ahve ever seen! what are they? they were billowing instantly

**Red on Red WS6** · 11-06-2006, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by oneBADDz

those are the smokinest tires I ahve ever seen! what are they? they were billowing instantly

P.O.S. Kumo's I will never buy another set. I just put on some BFG G force sports a night and day difference. Another at night. http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=174

**oneBADDz** · 11-06-2006, 11:01 AM

Originally Posted by Red on Red WS6

P.O.S. Kumo's I will never buy another set. I just put on some BFG G force sports a night and day difference. Another at night. http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=174

I had some toyos that smoked pretty good (and sucked) but they were ntohing like that. I put on some MT drag radials yesterday and they don't even smoke like your Kumhos http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1387944640

**96slow6** · 11-06-2006, 03:40 PM

i will throw in my 2 cents. never ever ever buy 96-97 midlegth or shorty headers. buy 93-95's. the bends in the newer model ones curl up way to high and cook the engine compartment electronics and hoses. buy the older single cat style and get 2 adapters from home depot to mount your egr tubes and get a custom y to adapt the 2nd cat. the cost will be about the same if not cheaper. and on brands i loved my mac mids before i put on LT's. an di only gained 4 horses when i swapped.

**Chad97z** · 11-07-2006, 07:21 PM

Originally Posted by Red on Red WS6

SLP Headers and Kooks Headers are the only stainless steel headers I know of. Most other header manufactures for example Jet hot, Hooker, Headman, Pacesetter make steel headers. The price of stainless is about 2.5 times the price of steel.

When I bought my car it had a flowmaster cat back I put down 256 at the wheels. My first mod was the same SLP header you are looking at a LT4 hot cam kit and a mail order tune. It then dynoed at 303 at the wheels. I thought 303 was a little low for a cammed car and suspected it was my entire exhaust setup holding me back. A year went by and I no longer needed to worry about emissions, so I bought Pacesetter long tubes Summit 2.5" x pipe kit, and dynomax bullets. I then dynoed at 328 at the wheels.

Can you be more specific on this mail order tune? =)
Thanks .. just curious what u did.

**Red on Red WS6** · 11-07-2006, 10:47 PM

Originally Posted by Chad97z

Can you be more specific on this mail order tune? =)
Thanks .. just curious what u did.

I bought my mail order tune from www.madz28.com when I first did my cam. I had him tune it for the cam, change rev limit, change shift points and switch off any SES codes I was getting like rear O2 sensors. His tune was pretty good and I was fairly impressed how well the car ran compared to a stock tune. But last year I decided I would like to learn to tune cars myself, so I bought Tuner cat and learned to do everything myself. After tuning my own car I am now 4 tenths quicker in the 1/4 mile and it drives better around town, compared to Madz28 tune.

**Chad97z** · 11-08-2006, 05:10 AM

smart man.. Don't mean to drag this on, but what kind of changes to the ecm are required when you install a new cam? Surely you don't tell it "I got a bigger cam".. Because the ecm only see's how the engine is burning, how much air is coming in, air density, timing regulation, fuel regulation and a few other switches and gizmo's for engine operation. So the most important it seems would be fuel injector duration and I don't know what else.. timing too probably.. ? But maybe timing is not changed because all your getting is more lift out of the valves, right?

In a way, I always wondered why you can't just put a 1998 vette ecm on a 1997 LT1 because basically, the ecm just monitors how the engine is running. Of course I know I am over simplifying it all, because some components might have been deleted from 1997 to 1998 and therefore there would be a wire that is not needed to make a connection. I'm basically talking about "except that" senario. Like No EGR. So this information you can tell me regarding changes you made to the ecm might help me understand why a vette ecm for a LS1 won't go on a LT1..

**BlackLT1Z28** · 11-08-2006, 12:19 PM

Because the LS1 and LT1 are 2 entirely different beasts. Head design, cam profile, timing, cooling, electrical, firing order, and everything else is why an LS1 PCM won't work for an LT1. PCM's are very sensitive to every single parameter. Even if you were able to swap an LS1 PCM to an LT1, I doubt it would even start. And even if you swapped the computers, you wouldn't gain anything. Tuning an LT1 is the same as tuning an LS1.