Results 21 to 40 of 41
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03-11-2016, 03:12 AM #21
If I recall, the roto-joints have an adjustment that allows you to tighten them so there is less "slop", hence less noise.
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03-11-2016, 06:59 AM #22
According to Ramey in 2012, over on the other forum, he says that a properly installed roto-joint should make no noise at all...
Others on the forum claim that rotos make "unbearable" noise.Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter
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03-12-2016, 03:40 AM #23
Don't hear any noise on mine.
Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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03-12-2016, 08:48 PM #24
Without lifting the car, I tugged on the exhaust pipe and the rattle seems to be coming from the muffler itself. I can make the rattle by tapping on the muffler with my hand. Jouncing the rear does not replicate the sound. I'm assuming it is coming from within the muffler. When I close the trunk, the rattle can be heard, and it is intermittent while idling. It seems to go away after some driving and comes back after sitting for a while... I think...
The parts should be here on Tues, so hopefully it will be early enough that I can get them installed before it gets dark....
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03-13-2016, 03:50 PM #25
Sounds like a baffle broke free inside the case. It happens.
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03-13-2016, 05:48 PM #26
Ah! Makes sense!
Do you think a muffler shop can cut it open and get rid of the baffle and then weld it back up?Last edited by Naaman; 03-13-2016 at 06:09 PM.
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03-13-2016, 07:44 PM #27
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Major Engine Work... Impressions (Finally)
Most shops will say no because they don't want to lose their license.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci, Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - "Stockish" Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), C7 Snowflake 17" Wheels
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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03-14-2016, 04:06 AM #28
Must be an emissions control tampering thing?
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03-14-2016, 06:05 AM #29
Correct. It's illegal, just like most headers are because they relocate the catalytic converters. Or, having no catalytic converters. If a shop agrees to do this type of thing, I'd personally not use the shop.
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03-14-2016, 05:08 PM #30
I see. Didn't know it was such an issue. So I guess I just have to add a cat-back to the list...
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03-14-2016, 06:51 PM #31
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- pa
- Posts
- 38
black- 2004 gto
Major Engine Work... Impressions (Finally)
In PA anything behind the cats except for the rear o2 sensor is only regulated by the safety insp. the emissions laws don't care what you do to the muffler . If you were cutting the cat open the emissions laws would apply and you could face a large fine . Don't know why anyone's emission laws would have anything to do with mufflers . The emissions program is run by the federal government so you would think the laws would be pretty close state to state .
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03-14-2016, 06:56 PM #32
Now that I think about it more, that sounds right about the mufflers. I'd need to double-check now.
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03-15-2016, 07:18 AM #33
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
It varies from state to state.
IMHO AL doesn't give a F%^k, no state inspections
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03-17-2016, 09:09 PM #34
I got under the car today and replaced the exhaust hanger. I noticed that one of the hangers further forward is broken at the weld onto the pipe leading into the muffler. I pulled that piece off the under-body and that seems to have corrected the intermittent squeaking I was hearing during idle.
There is a hole in the exhaust pipe where the weld broke, however. I'm thinking of using JB Weld High Heat to cover it up. It's about the size of a nickle.
Thoughts on doing this as a temp solution? When I saw it, I remembered that it had been like that for some time (not sure how long exactly). The exhaust does not droop or hang or swing, so I don't think it's a problem in that regard. I'm hoping to just replace the cat-back after a little while, which I may push up higher on the priority list, now that I've been under there and seen the full extent of things.
Attachment 26564
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03-18-2016, 03:16 AM #35
Can you bond in a small piece of metal over top of the hole rather than just using the JB Weld?
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03-18-2016, 07:12 AM #36
Sounds like a better idea. Are you thinking using the epoxy like a glue to hold it in place?
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03-18-2016, 03:25 PM #37
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03-18-2016, 03:37 PM #38
I might be able to do that, though it would require buying tools... and possibly a new jack (my floor jack doesn't fit under the car). I was thinking about wrapping a band around it and trying to clamp it down, but not sure if I could pull that off.
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03-18-2016, 03:39 PM #39
Just pull your car up onto 2x4's...jack should fit then.
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03-18-2016, 04:23 PM #40
I used my ramps yesterday. They gave enough height to slide under and do the hanger.
I ended up using a garden tool to cut the failing one off, and the new one popped right on. Incidentally, the part I ordered from Amazon was too big (ID had too loose of a fit for the prong). So I took the off-going part to O'Reilly's and got the one that fits.
I was pleasantly surprised that the job was exactly as simple as it appeared to be.
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