Let me know what you think!!

[1998 T/A]

Ok so I am planning on looking at this 2000 WS6 on Sunday and I'm totally afraid of the miles. It has 110k but it looks clean as hell! Right now I have a 2004 Acura TL with 149k on the clock but I know I will get another 150k out of it. I had a 98 with 80k miles and honestly it was sort of a lemon; this is why I am nervous about this particular bird. Anyway, the craigslist ad is right here 2000 PONTIAC TRANS AM

Thoughts would be appreciated!

[SMWS6TA]

No engine shots but the body looks well taken care of. Just beware and make sure you check the RPO codes for WS6 to know it is a real WS6. Lots of clones out there.

Make sure you test drive and get good look underneath. Listen for howling from the rear. (if so you can decide if you want to haggle or walk away)

$9500 is a little high IMHO. I got mine for $6300 5 yrs ago. (Damn It's been 5 yrs already...)

These 2 threads will help you in your hunt for a fbody.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/guide-buying-fbody-118628/

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/differe...y-years-27512/

[2002ssslp]

Ok so I am planning on looking at this 2000 WS6 on Sunday and I'm totally afraid of the miles. It has 110k but it looks clean as hell! Right now I have a 2004 Acura TL with 149k on the clock but I know I will get another 150k out of it. I had a 98 with 80k miles and honestly it was sort of a lemon; this is why I am nervous about this particular bird. Anyway, the craigslist ad is right here 2000 PONTIAC TRANS AM

Thoughts would be appreciated!

I would ask how many owners the car has, other then that I think it looks great on the outside and if it looks that good inside and in the engine compartment you may just have a winner here. I also noticed a personalized license plate so that means the owner has pride in his vehicle. Go and set up an appointment and drive the car. Today's technology allows a well maintained vehicle to go 200k plus and it looks (so far) that this vehicle was well card for. I would bring 8k with me and if you like the car give him a wiff of cash, that should motivate him. Also, bring a gun and or a big friend when you carry that amount of cash to a Craigslist ad seller. Good luck.

[Firebirdjones]

110,000 miles is alot of miles no matter how you cut it. Really depends on how well the engine was taken care of over the years before we can judge wear and tear. But if you are looking for a 4th gen you are talking about a car that's already 15+ years old, so they are going to have some miles on them unless you want to caugh up some dough for a low mile cream puff (they are still out there)

If you are on the cheap, then high miles are what you'll find. If you plan to keep it for the long run, then keep a possible engine swap/rebuild in the back of your mind as something that eventually happens with an old car. And likely rebuilding/replacing of other things

As far as mileage, my wifes 4th gen turned over 111,000 this week. I've taken care of it meticulously and it runs like a swiss watch, no piston slap, doesn't burn a drop of oil, I can't complain. However I have a couple of engines stashed away in the event that it starts to show signs of wear. I'll swap in a new one and keep enjoying the car. I expect it at some point. That's just how old cars are. Cheaper to keep them running rather than buy new cars every 5 years and lose your ass in depreciation, higher insurance, higher tags, and who the hell wants a $500 a month car payment anyway.... That's just how I look at things.

[Firebirdjones]

I'll give you another example. I just bought an 89 LX 5.0 mustang that I'm currently using to beat around town, and eventually may give to my son. It has 218,000 miles on it now. (216,000 and change when I bought it).
Knowing what a solid package the little 302's are the mileage didn't bother me. I got receipts of routine oil changes dating back to 1989 with mobile 1 synthetic. Mechanically the car was very well maintained. The trans was rebuilt a couple years ago so no worries there. The 8.8 rears are near bullet proof.

Would you believe this thing doesn't burn a single drop of oil, still purrs like a kitten and runs strong. It's giving me between 21-22 mpg city driving. I can't complain a bit. I did some other mechanical work that any 25 year old car needs like a power steering rack, tie rods, new tires, went through the brakes, new fuel pump, changed all fluids etc... The engine runs so solid I wouldn't be surprised to see this thing reach 300,000. And when it's time, I'm thinking LS swap

[0rion]

the miles on that car doesn't scare me as much as the price does.....maybe I'm just behind the times and the birds have started going up in price but no way I'm paying almost $10k for that car. It's about a $7k car.

[Firebirdjones]

Hey, at least the guy has good taste in clutches

[0rion]

yeah....here's what the ad says:
2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6. 2nd owner. 110k. 6 speed with new centerforce clutch. rebuilt rear end with 3:73 rear end gears. stainless Magnaflow exhaust. SLP lid with K&N filter. HID headlight conversion. leather. t-top. Good tires, newer A/C Delco pads and rotors. needs nothing..

here's what I see:
2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6. 2nd owner. 110k. 6 speed with new centerforce clutch. rebuilt rear end with 3:73 rear end gears because I tore up the old shit launching at the track. stainless Magnaflow exhaust. SLP lid with K&N filter. HID headlight conversion. leather. t-top. Good tires, newer A/C Delco pads and rotors. needs nothing......right now

[Firebirdjones]

Bahahaha, that's exactly what I was thinking when I saw mention of the rearend rebuilt. I guess we are sinical SOB's huh?

[0rion]

I prefer to think of it as "seasoned".

[Firebirdjones]

Okay I'll go with that, sounds good to me.

[transamtom]

Mine had 120,000 miles when I bought it.

I thought a rebuild might be in order soon as the oil pressure was low and I thought the rear main was leaking.

Nope it was the OPSU that was cracked and leaking and this thing has amazing oil pressure for a 132,000 mile car with over 500 drag strip passes by me.

I am hoping for 11's this spring summer.

Don't be afraid of the miles on an LS engine.

Check the rest out good and get another 2-3k off that price.

[1998 T/A]

Good input fellas. I am going to check out the car on Sunday and I plan on taking my ramps with me to get a peak under the car. I'm looking for a clean no rust car without having to travel to Texas or the Carolinas to get it. I do plan to do the engine at some point just not right now (1-2 years). Orion, I was thinking the same thing about the gears! If I were to replace mine I'd go 4.10 all day on a six speed. I will be sure to keep you guys posted. The price is high to me as well, if he doesn't budge I will pass because 9500 is way too high.

[1998 T/A]

Well I looked at the t/a today and the front of the car has typical rock chips, not serious. Clear coat is peeling about a dime size on the roof, rear quarters were not rusted through but I could feel it bubbling up, not serious. Interior lights all worked, all controls worked, t-tops do not leak and all around it was good cosmetically, well for 100k it was good. The bad stuff I found was the SES light is on, owner says it's bad gas and he doesn't want to drain the tank etc... He claimed it wasn't on last summer. The clutch felt weird to me only because I'm comparing it to the spec stage 3 I had in my 98. When driving it i just felt like it was being held back, I remember my t/a running like a scolded dog but this thing was fast don't get me wrong just not what I was expecting from a t/a. Granted I have been driving a nice Acura for over a year so maybe my perception is off. 9500 is still way too much but he said bottom dollar is 8500...input pleaseeeee

[Firebirdjones]

I checked some book values just to get a comparison, using my zip code, and area will reflect the value somewhat.

Good condition listed at $6900
Very good condtion was $7100
Excellent condition was $7400

My opinion the excellent condition number is on the light side since I've seen the WS6's and SS's around here sell for much more than that number. From your description it sounds as though the car may be considered good condition and likely something that would sell in the $7,000 range in my opinion. You also sound a bit hesitant in your description and you are worried about rust.

Frankly I'd probably look elsewhere. These cars are a dime a dozen right now. But if you are going to be picky about things and worried about rust you'll need to be willing to travel to broaden your chances of finding just the right car since these things are 15+ years old now and getting harder to find in any better condition than you described above. I lived in Ohio all my life up until 2008 and I never bought a car in Ohio, I always traveled south to at least the Carolina's or west passed the Mississippi to find clean sheetmetal.

Maybe broaden your search to driving distance you can do on a weekend, say 3-400 miles. That should open up some choices for you.

[1998 T/A]

Ya that sounds practical it's just time I do not have and to travel 1600 miles round trip is not something I can do at the moment. I pondered trading in my Acura and getting a newer as or challenger but once again ohio and winter doesn't mix with red muscle cars.

[Firebirdjones]

I always kept a rust bucket beater for those Ohio winters and kept the nice stuff garaged until the roads cleared. That's the only way to keep something nice out there. Sounds as though that might be the same situation you are heading towards. Maybe keep the Acura for a beater and find a toy for the nice days.

I like the new challengers and mustangs too. I'd own either if I were on the market.

[1998 T/A]

I don't mind keeping the Acura and honestly I'd only drive the trans am in the summer months. The car needs some love on the body and I would definitely replace the drivers seat on it. If I can get him to budge to 7.5 I'll go for it but I'll spend no more than 8.

[JohnnyBs98WS6Rag]

No engine shots but the body looks well taken care of. Just beware and make sure you check the RPO codes for WS6 to know it is a real WS6. Lots of clones out there.

Ditto on that. While the wheels look correct for a WS6, the missing WS6 badge on the rear bumper and lack of "Ram Air" decals on the hood raise all sorts of flags that this could very well be a clone, or has suffered front & rear body damage and didn't get replacement decals/badge when it was fixed. Not that it NOT being a "real" WS6 is a bad thing, but moreso that the seller isn't being totally honest. You may be able to use these facts (at least the missing badge/decal) to your advantage when bargaining for price.

[1998 T/A]

I saw WS6 on the door panel in the list of codes so I know it is a WS6. Does anybody have a carfax subscription that could run the VIN for me?