Help!!!!

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-20-2012, 06:27 PM

well I know the reason why I can't get the pulley back on. Damn threads are striped out.

one more thing to get

**SS SLP2** · 12-20-2012, 06:29 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

I use brake clean and blow it out with compressed air (if it's a blind hole).

be carefull and do not allow any of the brake clean on the paint as it will realy foul up your paint
Johnny

**SS SLP2** · 12-20-2012, 07:22 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

This time I got Gm head bolts with it being so close to Christmas $$$ is tight. I had to scrape to get what I needed without hurting gifts.

When I do a H/C swap it will be ARP.

If anyone knows the torque specs for the heads and order, pls post it.

I hope FedEx id playing with me, last update says it will be delivered tomorrow.

LS1Howto.com

read LS1 head swap
good luck,Johnny

**pajeff02** · 12-21-2012, 03:25 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

well I know the reason why I can't get the pulley back on. Damn threads are striped out.

one more thing to get

That sucks.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-21-2012, 04:06 AM

Tell me about it, I've had it off about 5 times for various reasons, I guess the threads on these things have a shelf life......

**98TransAmWs-6** · 12-21-2012, 12:00 PM

With ARP head bolts do I just use the assembly lube or do I use that and their thread locker? I have both but instructions didn't come with them or I lost them.

**pajeff02** · 12-21-2012, 12:37 PM

I would use the the moly thread paste that they recommend to ensure proper torque.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-21-2012, 12:50 PM

Like Jeff said...

**98TransAmWs-6** · 12-21-2012, 01:24 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I would use the the moly thread paste that they recommend to ensure proper torque.

That is what I thought.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-21-2012, 05:19 PM

Major victory tonight....ps pump installed & car has been moved.

Unless Myans screw with me tonight, tomorrow I should be able to finish.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-22-2012, 01:03 PM

Got it all back together, the original noise is gone, but have a new one. Not sure if the original problem was masking it but there is a loud slapping noise seems to be coming from the front cover behind the water pump. I know the water pump is working very well, 2nd degree burn on left arm thanks to the cap not being tighten enough. It popped off while my arm was near it.

Anyone know how a stretch timing chain sounds like?

With a 170,000 miles on it, it seems fair to think that the timing chain could be stretched? Only other possibility I can think of is cam bearings?

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-22-2012, 03:44 PM

One more thing to add, looking @ the oil, no bearing material

**98TransAmWs-6** · 12-22-2012, 08:26 PM

Are you sure you aren't just hearing piston slap? I haven't ever experienced a stretched timing chain but I would imagine it would sound more like a clanging or banging sound from the slack hitting the block. So if your slap sounds like that could be a possibility. I would look into other things first before you go tearing it down like that.

**moesplace** · 12-23-2012, 03:40 AM

pull your belt see if noise go away easy check

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-23-2012, 07:01 AM

how would pulling the belt determine is it's a timing chain issue?

**Cutlass** · 12-23-2012, 10:29 AM

Its just an easy check to confirm its not a belt driven accessory making the noise

**pajeff02** · 12-23-2012, 07:05 PM

Agree.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-26-2012, 01:20 PM

OK, now that the rain has passed and no longer under threat of Christmas tornadoes....

This is the first video when the problem started ( a refresher)

At the 18-27 seconds, sounds like a rapid tick

The following are after the repairs:

With belt

No belt test 1

with belt test 2

with the belt on I here it, without it no.

water pump going bad?