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Thread: Help!!!!
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12-04-2012, 03:54 PM #41
I have a Craftsman thread chaser kit -- works great.
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12-05-2012, 07:11 AM #42Senior Member
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
So I used my arp thread chaser and it came out virtually clean every time.....the only stuff that was on it was a couple of gasket specks from scraping the head gasket off. I find it very hard to believe that my threads are clean. I may use brake cleaner and see if that helps. If not I don't know what to do.
1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
(Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/

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12-05-2012, 07:13 AM #43
I use brake clean and blow it out with compressed air (if it's a blind hole).
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12-05-2012, 07:30 AM #44
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12-05-2012, 07:34 AM #45Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
I used a shop vac to vacuum up as much loose crap as I could around the head, tops of pistons and ran over all the bolt holes too.
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12-05-2012, 07:41 AM #46
Yep, I use the shop vac too. Does a great job of getting any loose stuff that may be hiding. If it's an open hole for a head bolt, it will suck antifreeze right out of it, lol.
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12-05-2012, 09:37 AM #47Senior Member
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
I will use my shop vac and tape a straw to it for the holes to make sure I get everything. Anyone have any clue as to why my bolt holes are super clean. They didn't even have coolant in them and if you shine a light down it looks brand new, no dirt or grime that can be seen at least.
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12-05-2012, 10:02 AM #48Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
dirt & grime I figure because they were put together in a sterile environment at the factory. Mine look mostly clean too minus the liquid.
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12-05-2012, 12:17 PM #49
Sterile is the key. Can't be too clean when it comes to assembling this stuff. Clean clean clean.
It's never the tear down or assembly that takes long, it's all the cleaning a prep work in between that takes all the time.Last edited by Firebirdjones; 12-05-2012 at 12:20 PM.
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12-06-2012, 07:47 PM #50
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12-07-2012, 06:09 AM #51
I use an air powered wire wheel to hit the piston tops and make quick work of it. In some severe cases of oil soaked pistons and alot of carbon buildup that stuff gets crystalized and hardened to the point where simple solvents don't even put a dent in it.
I simply cover the rest of the engine with a large towel or even mask off the other cylinders to keep debri out. Bring the piston you are working on to top dead center and wire wheel it. Then use a shop vac to suck anything out that might be around the ring lands. Then rotate the engine to bring the piston down and wipe the cylinder wall out with a clean towell and move onto the next one.
As the engine is constantly rotated for the next piston I keep an eye on the cylinders I've finished and continually wipe the cylinders with a clean towell for any debri that the rings bring back to the top and leave there.
By the time you get to the 8th piston everything you've worked on to that point will be squeaky clean. I've done it this way for years on many engines we pull the heads on. Quick and easy.
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12-07-2012, 07:21 AM #52Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Dropped heads of to get cleaned up & vacuum tested to make sure the valves/springs are still good. The shop that is doing it is only charging me $15.
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12-07-2012, 07:43 AM #53
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12-07-2012, 07:46 AM #54Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Will, why did you remove the ac hose? You need to cap them to help prevent moisture build up.
Looks like mine....
FBJ, could you post a pick of the wire brush you're talking about? I keep thinking it is a metal brush when I suspect you mean something else.
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12-07-2012, 07:47 AM #55
Dremel has enough speed, but I'm not sure you would have much of a wire wheel on there to do much good. All the dremel attachments I've seen are very tiny.
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12-07-2012, 08:26 AM #56
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12-07-2012, 09:39 AM #57Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
How does a wire wheel differ (better) from a wire brush?
I've read a lot of guys are using mineral spirits to help clean the gasket residue and carbon build up. Yes/no?
I'm not afraid of oil contamination because I plan on doing an oil change anyways because of coolant getting into the pan and also because it's due.
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12-07-2012, 10:09 AM #58
Air power vs man power
Mineral spirits will work, that's what I use in my parts washer. Not extremely strong but does remove grease and grime without removing paint. It also leaves a residue behind that you definately don't want on a gasket sealing surface. Great for the parts washer on bare metal parts because the oily residue will also keep things from rusting.
If you want to clean and scrub with mineral spirits, that's fine, but after you're done I'd wipe over the surface with brake clean or laquer thinner to remove any residue for a good gasket seal.
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12-07-2012, 10:15 AM #59Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
I guess I mean is if you don't want to use a wire brush because it will damage the heads and block then why use it on pistons?
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12-07-2012, 10:40 AM #60
Won't hurt the pistons at all. You'll find that some of that stuff gets caked and crystalized on those pistons from extreme heat and simple rubbing with a rag isn't going to clean it up. It might get the lighter stuff off, but you'll be there a long time trying to get the hard stuff off.
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. I have three more I plan on emptying to make sure everything is nice and clean.



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