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Thread: Changing fuel filter
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10-22-2012, 07:20 AM #1
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Changing fuel filter
Is there a particular procedure to follow when changing a fuel filter? I'm going to be changing mine this week and would like to know rather than guess.
Just out of curiosity, is it safe to jack up the car under the K-member or the rear diff? Obviously using jack stands as well.
Cheers.
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10-22-2012, 07:42 AM #2
Get ready for the cool burning sensation of gasoline in the arm pits
No real step by step procedure I'm aware of. You could relieve some pressure if you desire up at the shrader valve. Other than that it's a quick disconnect on one end and a nut/o-ring seal on the other. Pretty straight forward.
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10-22-2012, 08:13 AM #3
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Yep.....I wrap a rag around it just to absorb the gas. Also make sure to wear safety glasses. Gas burns like Hell when it hits the eyes....
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10-22-2012, 12:27 PM #4
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
I grabbed a bucket and put it under the fuel filter and some rags just in case. Then I opened the gas cap as well as relieving pressure via the shrader valve before removing the filter.
1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
(Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
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10-22-2012, 01:50 PM #5
It's a simple change. Recommend using line wrenches if you have them to avoid any possibility of rounding off the nut on the fuel line. The clip just pinches in to remove it at the back of the filter. +1 for wearing safety glasses.
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10-22-2012, 02:46 PM #6
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Bright Rally Red- 2001 Chevy Camaro Z28
I always used a 5/8 wrench and a crescent wrench. Pretty straightforward. I also prime the pump (key on and off several times) before I fire the car up.
2001 Chevy Camaro Z28 A4
SLP cold air intake/lid, SLP smooth bellow, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, Magnaflow exhaust, BMR STB, adjustable Panhard rod, SFC's, LCA's, 1LE sway bars, cross-drilled rotors
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10-22-2012, 03:30 PM #7
I park it and let it sit over night to relieve the pressure +2 on the line wrench and SG's.
2010 Camaro SIM 2SS/RS A6
1999 TA A4 NBM
12.265 at 110.52mph
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10-22-2012, 04:53 PM #8
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Silver & Blue- 02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO
I pussed out and paid my local mechanic to do it. Charged me 20 bucks, I bought the Fram fuel filer. No mess, no burning arm pits and I still have my eyesight.
My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k
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10-22-2012, 07:07 PM #9
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10-22-2012, 07:18 PM #10
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09 EclipseGT 75 Chevy 4x4- 2001 Trans-Am 13 F-XT
For the ones that don't puss out...
If you jack by the rear end make sure you use the flat part of the diff and not under the cover. If you jack on the cover you can bend it and make it leak. K member is tough so no problem there for jacking. I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump while the car is running to re-leave pressure in the fuel lines before doing the fuel filter and leave the cap on, not as much fuel will leak out. I only lost a few brain cells from the fumes when I did mine, no arm pit burn or burnt eyes. I just use ramps and crawl under so no jacking making this a bit easier.
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10-23-2012, 01:42 AM #11
I jack it by the front subframe and use jackstands front and rear.
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10-23-2012, 02:51 AM #12
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Great information guys, as always.
I don't have line wrenches, will I be ok to use regular ones?
Also, to Firebirdjones, you mentioned an O-ring; should there have been a new one included with the filter, or is using the existing one ok?
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10-23-2012, 03:04 AM #13
Note to self, try not to kink the plastic fuel line, very easy to do!
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10-23-2012, 03:25 AM #14
The lines at the filter are steel.
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10-23-2012, 06:36 AM #15
I know what you mean, logical thinking would lead you to believe there would be a new 0-ring with a filter, and I agree there should be. But they don't supply one. Reusing the old one has worked fine for me after several filter changes.
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I think the quick disconnect portion is a plastic line? Now you have me wondering and I was just under there the other day
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10-23-2012, 06:37 AM #16
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
I have start believing that they intentionally leave the o ring out so you have to make a 2, 3, 4th trip to the part stores........
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10-23-2012, 08:55 AM #17
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Does anyone know what size it is? I'll get one just in case mine's gone bad, I don't know when the filter on my car was last changed.
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10-23-2012, 03:46 PM #18
Both lines are steel. The snap on side (engine) side comes with a new plastic locking ring. And, seeing as how you can't see under there, the plastic ring has two wings that you depress to remove the line. The other (tank) side needs two wrenches. You should be fine reusing the old o ring.
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10-23-2012, 04:16 PM #19
Like I said, be careful not to kink the plastic (nylon) line (2nd & 3rd pic), note the kink in mine:
Black line is some sort of plastic (nylon).Last edited by 99'CajunFirehawk157; 10-23-2012 at 04:20 PM.
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10-24-2012, 10:34 AM #20
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
If you have it, spray some WD-40 or PBlaster on the nut side where the line meets the filter to make loosening them easier.
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