I'm a Oil Junkie

**ScrapMaker** · 04-13-2006, 09:27 PM

why does any car smoke out the pipes then?

**YoMommasTA** · 04-13-2006, 09:30 PM

no cats,older cats,pussy cats lol

**ScrapMaker** · 04-14-2006, 11:13 PM

haha... so if you have pussy-cats, you will blow smoke?

**Mr. Luos** · 04-22-2006, 09:15 AM

Still breaking in the 402 on AutoZone $1.00 a quart dino.

**Waynestep** · 05-12-2006, 08:10 AM

I have read most of this thread

- for the education as Sarge says - and I think I want to go the AMSOIL 0W-30 way - I have a local dealer. But I read earlier that someone has piston slap - (which I also have in my T/A)- and it got worse after they put in the AMSOIL.
So, is it a waste of effort and $$$ to try and stop the piston slap? I don't know if I should go synthetic if it makes no difference in the slap. I read that piston slap will ultimately reduce the life of the engine, so I think it's best to try and reduce it. And sometimes I hear the piston slap real loud- and other times hardly or not at all.

What AMSOIL would I use to stop or reduce the piston slap?

oh- and thanks Sarge- your info is tremendous.

**ScrapMaker** · 05-12-2006, 12:06 PM

how would you describe the piston slap? and does it only do it when it's warming up?

**Waynestep** · 05-12-2006, 12:15 PM

Yes- only when warming up- just like it is explained here in the forum and on that piston slap website mentioned in the discussions. After a minute or two it's gone- but it sounds like a diesel sometimes- and some times it doesn't do it at all. Strange.

**HAWKNYU** · 05-12-2006, 02:15 PM

My car has this noise also and has had it since day one. I work at a GM(Cadillac) dealership and have not once seen an engine damaged due to piston slap. As far as I know only oil that is too thick will reduce piston slap(straight 40 or 50wt), I use Amsoil 0w-30 and it seemed to quiet it some, but it is still there loud and clear but seems to go away sooner.

**Wesman** · 05-16-2006, 05:31 PM

Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

Synthetic is the only way to go

**ScrapMaker** · 05-17-2006, 07:21 AM

bah, I hardly hear anything when my car is warming up... it's louder overall... but so is every other cold motor in the world....

is it because we have an aluminum block and it's changing shape while heating up?

**myk02k** · 05-17-2006, 06:16 PM

Yup. My guess is the iron pistons/aluminum block combination doesn't mix too well in cold temps. We already know that iron has a much higher density than aluminum, but haven't you ever heard of the grave mistake of wiring houses with aluminum during wartime? My childhood house needed a complete re-wiring, we had plenty of fires from the outlets, and there were a few instances that the same models of houses on our block would have a massive fire. All the contracting/compression of aluminum made it a free wire after a while.

**lonewolf37** · 07-03-2006, 10:35 PM

I use Bllackstone Labs to do an oil analysis every 5000 miles. I have been trying Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and Penzoil Platinum. Mobil 1 has been showing the least wear.

**02z28ls1** · 07-04-2006, 11:05 AM

Mobil One is my choice-it was the first synthetic on the market, they've been at it longer than everyone else.
Aluminum engines are built looser because of the greater expansion rate of aluminum. When the engine warms up the tolerances are as tight as any other engine. As a result of this oil consumption can be worse than some people like. I'm not worried about a little extra oil consumption, not when I know the reason behind it.
There is no connection between aluminum wiring in houses and engine design. And it's debateable about the aluminum wiring being a safety hazard-IF the house was wired correctly in the first place.
Piston slap is the result of the short piston skirts of a performance piston as well as the looser tolerances. It keeps the weight of the piston down to eliminate the long skirts that are used on a lot of OEM pistons. That's why the LS engines rev up so fast, less rotating mass. People freak out on a little noise so you get stuff like heavy pistons and reduced performance for a lot of cars. Piston slap has NEVER been shown to reduce the life of the engine.

**Sarge** · 07-04-2006, 03:55 PM

Originally Posted by Waynestep

I have read most of this thread

- for the education as Sarge says - and I think I want to go the AMSOIL 0W-30 way - I have a local dealer. But I read earlier that someone has piston slap - (which I also have in my T/A)- and it got worse after they put in the AMSOIL.
So, is it a waste of effort and $$$ to try and stop the piston slap? I don't know if I should go synthetic if it makes no difference in the slap. I read that piston slap will ultimately reduce the life of the engine, so I think it's best to try and reduce it. And sometimes I hear the piston slap real loud- and other times hardly or not at all.

What AMSOIL would I use to stop or reduce the piston slap?

oh- and thanks Sarge- your info is tremendous.

Piston slap isnt caused by oil but the piston skirts being too damn short and bangining around in the cylinders.....I fixed my piston slap by dropping a iron block 402 Stroker motor in with Mahle pistons

Seriously...Amsoil 5-40 European,Red Line 10-40 or Royal Purple Racing 41 all have superior film strength....Castrol GTX 10-40 is also excellent for 5K oil change intervals....

**GatorSS** · 07-05-2006, 02:22 AM

Originally Posted by myk02k

Yup. My guess is the iron pistons/aluminum block combination doesn't mix too well in cold temps. We already know that iron has a much higher density than aluminum, but haven't you ever heard of the grave mistake of wiring houses with aluminum during wartime? My childhood house needed a complete re-wiring, we had plenty of fires from the outlets, and there were a few instances that the same models of houses on our block would have a massive fire. All the contracting/compression of aluminum made it a free wire after a while.

If you think aluminum wire is bad, then try and wire your house with iron wire.

**GatorSS** · 07-05-2006, 02:31 AM

Originally Posted by 02z28ls1

Mobil One is my choice-it was the first synthetic on the market, they've been at it longer than everyone else. ...

I thought Amsoil was the first synthetic... Er, uh, I guess it depends on how you define 'synthetic'...

...oh, never mind, let me get back to my medication

**GatorSS** · 07-05-2006, 02:59 AM

Originally Posted by Sarge

Piston slap isnt caused by oil but the piston skirts being too damn short ......

Yup, I agree, those "skirts being too damn short" caused so many to get slapped. I said, "Your Honor, I couldn't help it, that booty looked so good under that little short skirt, I just had to grab it. Honest. That's when she slapped the fun right off my face."

Uh, I know, but I have a prescription for this. Great stuff, I'm finally feeling no pain, but it makes me feel real

. Now, what was I saying....?

**brantsz** · 07-06-2006, 10:10 PM

Sarge
I have read most all of this post and have decide to run full syn in my newly acquired 02 Z28 and also in my new DOD 5.3 trail Blazer. I must be in geographical Oddity where I currently reside. I was unable to find an Amisoil dealer within 100 miles. Well I ran out of time so I decided to go with the Castrol Syntec 10/40 with an AC Delco filter. Do you think this oil is too thick? I do remember you saying that it was thicker than the amsoil that you recommend. I will say its hot here we haven’t seen a day time temp below 90 for weeks. Man did it make a huge difference in both of my LSX's more notably in my Z28, but the cold piston slap is more noticable. Aside from the cold slap issue The car runs much smother and I swear it seems to run better. The thing that really bothers me is that tiny play school filter that GM recommends. I know on my dally driver my 93z that it calls for a PF454 but I use the PF1218 that is double the size. I can remember about 5 years ago when they decide to down size that filter.

Can any one tell me is there a larger filter in AC Delco that will fit our cars???

**JEF** · 07-08-2006, 09:03 AM

Mobil 1. Tore down my 305 @ 100k mi. and the crank surfaces looked beautiful! (block froze) LS1 gets only 5w30 M1. Synthetic Rotella in the Duramax.

**Sarge** · 07-10-2006, 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by brantsz

Sarge
I have read most all of this post and have decide to run full syn in my newly acquired 02 Z28 and also in my new DOD 5.3 trail Blazer. I must be in geographical Oddity where I currently reside. I was unable to find an Amisoil dealer within 100 miles. Well I ran out of time so I decided to go with the Castrol Syntec 10/40 with an AC Delco filter. Do you think this oil is too thick? I do remember you saying that it was thicker than the amsoil that you recommend. I will say its hot here we haven’t seen a day time temp below 90 for weeks. Man did it make a huge difference in both of my LSX's more notably in my Z28, but the cold piston slap is more noticable. Aside from the cold slap issue The car runs much smother and I swear it seems to run better. The thing that really bothers me is that tiny play school filter that GM recommends. I know on my dally driver my 93z that it calls for a PF454 but I use the PF1218 that is double the size. I can remember about 5 years ago when they decide to down size that filter.

Can any one tell me is there a larger filter in AC Delco that will fit our cars???

Castrol 10-40 is just fine......as for the filters...yup...I run dual filters on all my cars/trucks..... cheap/add oil to the sump and great results...
you can relocate your filter very easy and run "fullsize" filters...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=14813

And by the way...you have to order from Amsoil LOL www.amsoil.com
But Castrol is fine oil.....