Lowered?

[pajeff02]

^^ Agree. I run our car in the second hole right now. With recent upgrades though, traction will be more of an issue on launches so I'll be bringing the arm down to the lowest hole.

[Ant71130]

^^ Agree. I run our car in the second hole right now. With recent upgrades though, traction will be more of an issue on launches so I'll be bringing the arm down to the lowest hole.

Well alright guys, thank you. So my list will be SFC, PHR, and then LTs and an ORY. For a dd, that should put me semi well with the bolt ons. Oh, and dyno/tuned of course. As far as the tires go, I wanted something that would last me more than 10k miles, as a DD, but have some pretty sick traction to it as well. I tried using that there search button and found GS D3's to be sufficient? Some people ran them on al 4, but most seemed to put something else up front. Nitto 555 extremes or something. I'll look into it once I need new tires but atm, that's not my priority.

[j nix]

You should add rear LCA's, front and rear sway bars and Strut tower brace. Make sure PHB is adjustable and 2 point SFC's should be all you need.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Got your PM. I've been super busy. I will try to reply tomorrow!!

[Ant71130]

You should add rear LCA's, front and rear sway bars and Strut tower brace. Make sure PHB is adjustable and 2 point SFC's should be all you need.

Alright, I'll certainly look into it and trust me, a full suspension is in my future. Just, as a DD and not yet a track car, I really want the LT's and ORy for the extra sound and nice hp gain. I just wanted those 2 crucial suspension parts now because under stock power even those help. Eventually I'll definitely be getting rear LCAs, sways, stb, phr, sfc, ta, shocks/springs/struts, and the 12 bolt lol. Or 9". W.e
Now that you mention all of that though, perhap I'll add the STB in before the LTs. They should be relatively cheap I'd imagine, any certain kind I should look into?

Got your PM. I've been super busy. I will try to reply tomorrow!!

Alright, appreciate it man, thanks. That'd be of a lot of help.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Anthony -

I'll just reply here so others can chime in if they feel the need to also voice their opinion (more opinions never hurt).

If you are looking at UMI SFC's, you basically have 6 choices all together: 2 pt tubular, 2 pt box, 3 point and each of those come either in weld-in or bolt-on.

It looks like from your profile picture you have a vert. I would suggest the 2 pt tubular at a minimum (these offer more clearance I believe on verts or the 3 pt). I have a t-top car and I chose to get 2 pt box style weld-in. The box style are stronger, but I believe on a vert you have to get the tubular style (I could be wrong).

As far as the PHB, whatever you choose, get one that is adjustable. They offer adjustable off the car, and on the car. I chose the #2022; on the car with polyurethane bushings.

Since I bought mine they came out with the "roto-joint", which a lot of people like.

You really can't go wrong with anyone you choose. The only benefit with the "on car" adjustable one is of course, if you set it to the length you think it needs to be and then install it, and your rear end is not centered still, you can adjust it while it is still installed on the car. The others you have to remove to adjust it and then re-install it.

I would probably get the #2037: roto-joint with polyurethane bushings that is on-car adjustable.

Hope this helps!

[Ant71130]

Anthony -

I'll just reply here so others can chime in if they feel the need to also voice their opinion (more opinions never hurt).

If you are looking at UMI SFC's, you basically have 6 choices all together: 2 pt tubular, 2 pt box, 3 point and each of those come either in weld-in or bolt-on.

It looks like from your profile picture you have a vert. I would suggest the 2 pt tubular at a minimum (these offer more clearance I believe on verts or the 3 pt). I have a t-top car and I chose to get 2 pt box style weld-in. The box style are stronger, but I believe on a vert you have to get the tubular style (I could be wrong).

As far as the PHB, whatever you choose, get one that is adjustable. They offer adjustable off the car, and on the car. I chose the #2022; on the car with polyurethane bushings.

Since I bought mine they came out with the "roto-joint", which a lot of people like.

You really can't go wrong with anyone you choose. The only benefit with the "on car" adjustable one is of course, if you set it to the length you think it needs to be and then install it, and your rear end is not centered still, you can adjust it while it is still installed on the car. The others you have to remove to adjust it and then re-install it.

I would probably get the #2037: roto-joint with polyurethane bushings that is on-car adjustable.

Hope this helps!

Alright man thanks a lot, appreciate it. Though for what it's worth, my car is a T-Top. So I'll get the 2pt box that you mentioned. Does it really look like a vert? I don't like convertibles that much haha. I did figure on the car adjustable was one I was going to get, I just didn't know if turb or box would benefit more. Box it is. Again, thank you very much. I'll be getting a UMI STB as well I think. With a STB, PHR and SFCs, I think I'll be alright suspension wise to get my LT's and ORY. Once I have all of those, I may jump back to suspension. Unless there are other bolt ons hp wise I could do that don't involve h/c/i in order to be effective, eg, FAST.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I personally would ditch the STB and put that money towards something else. From what I've gathered here over the years, they don't do anything other than look pretty under the hood

[Ant71130]

I personally would ditch the STB and put that money towards something else. From what I've gathered here over the years, they don't do anything other than look pretty under the hood

Oh Yeah? I mean STB funds can pay close for my ORY so I'm not complaining. Though I wouldn't mind having it just to say I got it haha. Hrm, well thanks. It seemed to be kind of be like a sway bar/sfc mixed for the shock towers. I wasn't about to doubt it though 'cause there's always something I don't know haha.

[35th-ANV-SS]

My mods are in my signature. No STB here and my car handles like it's on rails...also goes straight pretty well too

[Ant71130]

My mods are in my signature. No STB here and my car handles like it's on rails...also goes straight pretty well too

That procharger is going to do wonders for you . Tuned as well I'm assuming? And out of curiosity, why did you put ORY, and then no cats separate? Great car though none the less. Hopefully mine will handle much better with sfcs/phr and some new rubber. I'll probably lower the LCAs down a hole while I'm at it. I'm so curious to see what I dyno after LT's and an ORY. I plan on gettnig pacesetter for the both pending funds, and once I do, should I get jethot to ensure they don't fail or do you think ceramic coating is sufficient?

Edit:
what is pst ds?

[35th-ANV-SS]

I have no idea why I did that

Car is currently under construction with the Procharger being installed. Car is being street tuned and DYNO'd 3rd week of June. I have a thread in the FI section here.

PST = Precision Shaft Technologies. DS = Drive Shaft

Keep us up to date on your progress. You're going to be happy with those UMI pieces.

[Ant71130]

I have no idea why I did that

Car is currently under construction with the Procharger being installed. Car is being street tuned and DYNO'd 3rd week of June. I have a thread in the FI section here.

PST = Precision Shaft Technologies. DS = Drive Shaft

Keep us up to date on your progress. You're going to be happy with those UMI pieces.

Damn man, well keep us/me updated with you as well. I can't wait to hear the numbers. Any idea what you're putting down right now? I'm curious to know what I'll put down after lts but I hear a lot of different things. Guess all engines are a little different.

And I will, I'll look into buying them asap. I'll post pictures once it's all installed. I have a tendency to plan things wayyy in advance because I love cars but don't have the funds to do whatever whenever I want so... =P. Like I was going to do all this bolt on research and se what I can do to maximize performance once phr/sfc/lts/ory were put on. Idk what to do after that but, I suppose I should wait until I have those

[35th-ANV-SS]

DYNO numbers are in my sig of what the car currently has with only LT's, lid, and exhaust. Those numbers are on a Mustang DYNO (which is more real life as opposed to a DynoJet) and through a 9" rear, which is the least efficient rear end.

I'm shooting for about 550rwhp/tq with the Procharger and low 11's at the track.

[Ant71130]

DYNO numbers are in my sig of what the car currently has with only LT's, lid, and exhaust. Those numbers are on a Mustang DYNO (which is more real life as opposed to a DynoJet) and through a 9" rear, which is the least efficient rear end.

I'm shooting for about 550rwhp/tq with the Procharger and low 11's at the track.

I saw the numbers too, idk why I asked -.- . Why are Mustang dynos more real life? I don't understand how there could be discrepency. And 9" is the least efficient? You mean in comparison to a 12 bolt? Would that alter your dyno?

On the other note, I'd assume with DR's and 550+ whp/tq you could do much.. much better than 11's o.O. I wouldn't even see low 10's as out there.

[Ws6islife]

Maybe all they did was chopped up the springs??

[35th-ANV-SS]

I saw the numbers too, idk why I asked -.- . Why are Mustang dynos more real life? I don't understand how there could be discrepency. And 9" is the least efficient? You mean in comparison to a 12 bolt? Would that alter your dyno?

On the other note, I'd assume with DR's and 550+ whp/tq you could do much.. much better than 11's o.O. I wouldn't even see low 10's as out there.

10's will not be possible with that power level, even with slicks. I'm a M6. The fastest time I've ever seen was 11.09 and that was with an experienced drag racer on full slicks.

9" is the least efficient out of any rear end for our cars. it takes the most HP to turn. It's 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt and 3% less than the 12 bolt.

Google Mustang Dyno vs. DynoJet and you'll see why a Mustang Dyno is different. It accounts for parasitic loss.

[Ant71130]

10's will not be possible with that power level, even with slicks. I'm a M6. The fastest time I've ever seen was 11.09 and that was with an experienced drag racer on full slicks.

9" is the least efficient out of any rear end for our cars. it takes the most HP to turn. It's 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt and 3% less than the 12 bolt.

Google Mustang Dyno vs. DynoJet and you'll see why a Mustang Dyno is different. It accounts for parasitic loss.

I see, I had no idea. Thanks for the info.
But... I just can't imagine almost 600whp not breaking 11's. Z06's break 11.5 stock at ~420 whp. I mean vettes are different, IRS and what not but.. in a straight line? It's just crazy for me to think. Is it just because of human error?

[35th-ANV-SS]

Going from 13.5 to 13 is NOT the same as trying to go from 11.5 to 11.0

That's the difference.

Yes, each one is cutting 0.5 off the time, but once you get into the 11's or faster...it takes a lot more than just HP/TQ to get those lower numbers.

[Ant71130]

Going from 13.5 to 13 is NOT the same as trying to go from 11.5 to 11.0

That's the difference.

Yes, each one is cutting 0.5 off the time, but once you get into the 11's or faster...it takes a lot more than just HP/TQ to get those lower numbers.

Oh I know. I guess I just figured over 100hp more and custom rubber could achieve that. But as understood, a ZR1 and Z06 have similar 1/4's with a huge hp difference so, I understand where you're coming from. Alright, thanks for the clarification