Trailer Shopping

**Firebirdjones** · 03-25-2011, 12:39 PM

They all work pretty much the same. The only big recommendation I'd throw out there is to get one with the "square" style load bars.
Stay away from the round load bars as they aren't as strong.

There are alot of different brands out there. They tend to be more expensive at the local trailer stores which is where I bought mine.
You can find them cheaper on Ebay, I'll see if I can find a link.

**Firebirdjones** · 03-25-2011, 12:44 PM

Here is what I have made by Reese.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REESE...Q5fAccessories

You can see it has the square bars, as well as this also takes a special receiver. Should all come as a package.
The only concern I would have is the style trailer you bought. Since you have a V-nose, you have to make sure there is enough of the trailer frame sticking out to attach those mounts for the chains.
I believe there are special mounts made just for V-nose trailers that don't have the frame sticking out.

**Firebirdjones** · 03-25-2011, 12:45 PM

Let me take a pic of mine to help explain.

**Firebirdjones** · 03-25-2011, 12:54 PM

Here you can see the style I have mounts on top of the frame. Can't use this on a V-nose.
You'll also notice I'm as far back as I can go before the trailer gets in the way. I almost had to go to the different style mount that goes under the frame.
The people building your trailer should be able to suggest which style will work for you.

**pajeff02** · 03-25-2011, 06:57 PM

Thanks! I wonder if the fact that mine will have aluminum frame rails makes a difference on the style of clamp?

**Firebirdjones** · 03-25-2011, 08:19 PM

I would think your aluminum trailer would have a full box frame like mine. Those brackets simply sit on there and one 5/8 bolt on each one clamps it to the frame. Almost looks like it wouldn't work or simply fall off, but it works.
Just for piece of mind, after I positioned mine and tightened the bolt, I put 1" long tack welds in about 4 places on each bracket

I believe yours would attach in the same fassion. I'm thinking you might have a slightly different style though, that attaches underneath rather than on top since you'll have a V-nose.

**pajeff02** · 03-26-2011, 01:53 AM

I'll check with the manufacturer and see what the rep says. Thanks, FBJ!

**pajeff02** · 04-04-2011, 03:38 AM

I have no idea on this one: Our 'Burb has the "tow package" on it. Does that include a supplemental transmission cooler? I have not looked. Assuming it does not have one, what is the preferred installation method -- utilize the stock radiator cooler and aftermarket in series, or bypass the radiator?

**Firebirdjones** · 04-04-2011, 09:11 AM

With a tow package, it should (at a minimum) have the tranny cooler already there somewhere. Most instances nowadays they also have an oil cooler for the engine as well.
The 6.0 I pulled from a 3/4 ton truck had the engine oil cooler but I just don't know if they do that on the 5.3's.

On the tranny cooler, I personally prefer to keep the factory radiator involved, and then tap into the return line for the auxillary cooler so you have both of them working for you.

**pajeff02** · 04-04-2011, 01:38 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

With a tow package, it should (at a minimum) have the tranny cooler already there somewhere. Most instances nowadays they also have an oil cooler for the engine as well.
The 6.0 I pulled from a 3/4 ton truck had the engine oil cooler but I just don't know if they do that on the 5.3's.

On the tranny cooler, I personally prefer to keep the factory radiator involved, and then tap into the return line for the auxillary cooler so you have both of them working for you.

I have to get back under this thing to check it out -- never thought about an oil cooler. My plan was to plumb in the auxillary in series with the radiator. I just wanted to be sure that was the best way to do it. There was a thread sometime back with a fairly healthy debate on the topic.

**Firebirdjones** · 04-04-2011, 02:10 PM

The engine oil cooler is easy to spot. It'll have a pair of lines bolted in right above the oil filter.

Ya I've heard of a few who don't like to run the tranny cooler in line with the radiator portion of it. Guess a few have had a radiator go bad,,and either mix coolant with the tranny fluid or tranny fluid with the coolant.
Either way, in 30+ years of doing it,,,I've never had a radiator fail like that so I just don't worry about it. It's up to you.

**pajeff02** · 04-08-2011, 05:31 PM

No oil cooler. I'll need to drop the splash guard to check the transmission cooler setup next time it is in the air. Looks like the transmission has been serviced at least once in its life -- the pan is shifted ever so slightly from its original position so I can see a clean "shadow" to the side of each bolt head.

**pajeff02** · 04-13-2011, 08:44 AM

It does have a transmission cooler. Looks like a stacked plate design mounted in front of the radiator, top dead center. The upper lip was ground down on it to clear the hood latch. I can not really see what is securing it and will have to look it over better when I have time.

**RJWZ28** · 04-13-2011, 09:09 PM

I don't understand why they never offered the 6.0 or 6.2 upgrades in the GMT800 and 900 1500 Burbs and Tahoes. Any engine available in the pickups should be available in the SUV variants, IMHO.

**Firebirdjones** · 04-14-2011, 07:59 AM

Originally Posted by RJWZ28

I don't understand why they never offered the 6.0 or 6.2 upgrades in the GMT800 and 900 1500 Burbs and Tahoes. Any engine available in the pickups should be available in the SUV variants, IMHO.

Well, I thought they did, but evidently I was wrong. When Jeff told me his burb had a 5.3 I was a little shocked. A burb isn't a small vehicle by any means. I personally would want a 6.0 minimum in a vehicle that size, even more so I honestly prefer a big block. Unfortunately those are no longer made.

My fathers 2003 6.0 3/4 ton pickup with 4.10 gears tows okay, but even that is a bit weezy on the hills. My old 79 1 ton 454 pickup would just run off and leave him on the hills. I really wasn't all that impressed with his 6.0 when it came to towing a car.

**RJWZ28** · 04-18-2011, 05:06 PM

The 6.0 and 8.1 were available in the GMT800 Suburban 2500s and the LY6 is standard in the GMT900 Suburban 2500s, but his is a 1500, so he has the 5.3. I think that's silly; NHT (the max trailering pack on my truck that includes the 403hp, 417lb L9H/L92 along with 3.73s, rear discs, and trans and oil coolers) should be available on all 1500 GMT900s. Why wouldn't they offer it? It's like they assume that nobody with Tahoes and Suburbans also needs to tow, but doesn't want to have to add the extra ton that jumping up to a 2500 Burb will bring to their daily people mover.

**pajeff02** · 04-18-2011, 06:24 PM

I checked my owner's manual yesterday -- the difference in rated towing capabilities between the 1500 and 2500 Suburban was less than 1,000 lbs. I was kind of surprised that there was really not that much of a difference.

I am shoppping for weight distribution hitches and sway control packages right now. Slightly confused at all the different options. I am also not sure if the fact that our trailer will have aluminum frame rails makes any difference. It appears that you have to drill through the frame rails to mount the sway link brackets.

**Firebirdjones** · 04-18-2011, 06:59 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I checked my owner's manual yesterday -- the difference in rated towing capabilities between the 1500 and 2500 Suburban was less than 1,000 lbs. I was kind of surprised that there was really not that much of a difference.

I am shoppping for weight distribution hitches and sway control packages right now. Slightly confused at all the different options. I am also not sure if the fact that our trailer will have aluminum frame rails makes any difference. It appears that you have to drill through the frame rails to mount the sway link brackets.

The weight distribution kit that I bought didn't require any drilling. The link brackets simply clamped onto the trailer.
Now with your V-noise that probably doesn't have the top of the frame exposed, things may be a little different for you.

**RJWZ28** · 04-18-2011, 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I checked my owner's manual yesterday -- the difference in rated towing capabilities between the 1500 and 2500 Suburban was less than 1,000 lbs. I was kind of surprised that there was really not that much of a difference.

I am shoppping for weight distribution hitches and sway control packages right now. Slightly confused at all the different options. I am also not sure if the fact that our trailer will have aluminum frame rails makes any difference. It appears that you have to drill through the frame rails to mount the sway link brackets.

Really? I never investigated it, but that's pretty silly. My 1/2-ton Silverado is rated at 10,xxx pounds; is the 3/4-ton Burb at least rated at 10k?

**pajeff02** · 04-19-2011, 03:08 AM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

The weight distribution kit that I bought didn't require any drilling. The link brackets simply clamped onto the trailer.
Now with your V-noise that probably doesn't have the top of the frame exposed, things may be a little different for you.

I sent an e-mail to the manufacturer yesterday. I want to make sure I get this right the first time.

Originally Posted by RJWZ28

Really? I never investigated it, but that's pretty silly. My 1/2-ton Silverado is rated at 10,xxx pounds; is the 3/4-ton Burb at least rated at 10k?

I can check the manual again tonight.