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03-06-2006, 03:09 PM #1
How much power can an alluminum block handle on Boost
As the title says. What kind of power can a 346 block handle with boost or would it be better to go cast iron and what is the weight diffrence.
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03-06-2006, 03:20 PM #2
that depends, are you talkin stock internals... or forged setup...?
generally people have been sayin it should be good up to ~700-800ish... but other people argue that up to about 1300 hp you should be fine... provided you have the correct internals and a good tune. You can buy an engine girdle that is supposed to strengthen the block
stock internals would limit you to ~500hp
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03-07-2006, 08:54 AM #3Originally Posted by 98_Formula
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03-08-2006, 07:53 AM #4
How much power can the alluminum block handle with all forged internals. Im just curious because im getting one built.
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03-27-2006, 11:14 PM #5sparkyjimGuest
on the safe side
500 horsepower that would be my limit if not 450 thats alot of cylinder pressure with any forced induction.
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03-31-2006, 05:13 PM #6
Well....I'm living proof that the stock blocks are a little fragile when you put a lot of boost to them.....I ran one up to 9lbs and it cracked the cylinder wall in no time flat......and no there was no detonation....
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04-03-2006, 09:37 AM #7BeastGuest
There are engine girdles that should help the bore distortion problem of the aluminum block. From what I understand there are dragsters running LS1 aluminum blocks with 1300+ HP... there was an article in GMHT a few months ago.
I think if you google dm performance ls1 engine girdle... you'll find it.Last edited by Beast; 04-03-2006 at 09:39 AM.
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04-03-2006, 01:58 PM #8Originally Posted by Beast
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04-03-2006, 07:11 PM #9
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Id say the internals are going to be the weakest part. I know of a few cars that are pushing well into the 700hp range and havent had issues with the block. Ive seen a couple piston rods and valve train issues though.
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04-04-2006, 05:20 AM #10
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Bright Green Metallic- 1998 Trans AM
Originally Posted by cailey37
You werent doing something right.......
Ive seen the aluminum blocks live with almost 30 psi and 1300 hp. Run all season long running 8.20's @170mph and that same motor is still living strong with another turbo behind it when it was swapped into his daily driver Silverado.
Im running an Iron block now and when it comes time to refresh it im going back to a Aluminum block.
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04-04-2006, 06:26 AM #11Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA95 Exploder
01 R1 coming?
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04-04-2006, 06:52 AM #12
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Bright Green Metallic- 1998 Trans AM
Originally Posted by Fedge
The reason im going back to Alum. Is the weight. Its almost 90 lbs off the front.
Yes Iron is stronger but with power levels that high, the combo has to be rebuilt pretty often anyways. Most people just throw around the number of 800+ HP combo’s and have no clue what it takes to build and maintain it. Its not just slap it together and hope it stays that way.
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04-04-2006, 07:25 AM #13
90 lbs...geez...i'm glad i asked! eh, i wasn't gonna go nuts anyway, i wanted it to be durable for daily driver duty, yet kick butt at the track...90 is a lot, so aluminum it is, thanks for the info
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04-04-2006, 02:10 PM #14Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
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04-05-2006, 08:32 AM #15
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Bright Green Metallic- 1998 Trans AM
Originally Posted by cailey37
The stock block will last. That motor ran like that for a whole yr with that much boost and is still running fine right now with 15 psi on the street everyday......
Your one instance is not what others should base there choices on. Many have done it.
Iv even destroyed a stock Alum. Block myself. If done right it will last.
Anything can be destroyed if not done correctly.
BTW what YR block???
Kyle
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04-05-2006, 02:04 PM #16Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Last edited by cailey37; 04-05-2006 at 02:27 PM.
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04-12-2006, 03:54 AM #17
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What about sleeves
If the suspected weak point in the LS1 alloy blocks is the sleeve thickness what about using the Darton Modular LS1 Sleeves.
Has anyone had experience with these as a way of overcoming the suspected weakness of the wall? Definitely a little pricey at $1300 but less than a rebuild if the engine breaks itself. Be nice to find out what the fitting cost is.
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04-12-2006, 07:04 AM #18
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guys check out my web site , it will fix all the problems in the stock block, www.dmperformance.org , when you putting a lot of money into an aluminum block why take the chance , one of my customers, is running 1250 horse on stock main caps, and 25 pounds of boost, no problem,he has been running it every weekend for a year so far, you do not have to worry about your block cracking any more, aslo check my project car link from the web site and dyno numbers ,of a stock componet build up before the pt-88, not only does the ls1 girdle strengthen the block it give you more power, because the bottom end is stabalizied.
Last edited by stage274; 04-12-2006 at 10:28 AM.
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04-12-2006, 02:05 PM #19Originally Posted by Salaszar
And I did buy one of the Engine Girdles from DM Performance....just a little added insurance...........well worth itLast edited by cailey37; 04-13-2006 at 05:04 PM.
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04-15-2006, 11:50 PM #20
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Green- Torana 1977
I tend to agree with Cailey37 that the iron block is probably the simplest and cheapest option,,shame about the weight. I believe though that the iron blocks can be bored out a little more than the alloy blocks so the extra cubes should help counteract the weight penalty.
Stage 274: The girdle sounds good to strengthen the bottom end but I cannot see how that overcomes the suspected weakness of the cylinder walls,,or are you disagreeing that they are a problem?
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