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Thread: Rear defrost does not work
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11-02-2009, 03:48 PM #21Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
not sure. I only measured at the glass last night. I haven't tried it today. I will have to wait until tomorrow. I will pull the panel off and poke around with the meter. I wish I had a meter with the audible continuity feature. Makes it easier than constantly looking over for Ohms when your fumbling around the wires.
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11-03-2009, 02:21 PM #22Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
well i guess something that is part of the switch is bad. I pulled the plug and got about 12V.
guess i will be salvage yard hunting or saving my money. i was wrong on the new part, i found it for $105 not $150, makes it a little better,
.
i was very disappoint to see the right side A/C wire harness was super short. What a real pain in the butt.
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11-22-2009, 03:45 PM #23Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
is there a way to tell if the element stuff on the rear window is bad? I'm still trying to diagnose why my rear defrost does not work.
All fuses are good. I have already tried a used part, claimed to be working when on car. Trial and error with used parts can lead to dead ends. Trial and error with new parts is 100 bucks, tax, and shipping. That is costly.
I would like to try and find the cause by diagnosing it.
Last time i used my meter on the car i had no voltage at the rear window as measured off the metal connectors.
Is there a way to use a volt meter to verify where the problem is?
thanks
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11-22-2009, 05:54 PM #24
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11-23-2009, 04:37 AM #25Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
i haven't checked the switch to the panel i just put in. i can do that today. the last time i did this was on the original switch. all i could get to was the wire harness at the back of the switch.
any chance someone knows which wire is the ground?
i pulled the rear hatch trim off and the wiring back there looks fine.
has any one ever heard of the element on the glass going bad? i would think this is pretty rare. even after a bad tint removal on my 99 i still had a working element, took twice as long though.
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11-23-2009, 09:22 AM #26Junior Member
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Black- 2002 ws6
I juuuust fixed a similar problem on my 02 ws6. Mine was the switch, I didn't even test anything else, looked at the rear window and the wires weren't broken, so I ordered the switch right away, had same happen before.
bad news: you need to buy the whole panel rather than just the switch you need and i hear it's a couple of hundred dollars!
Good news, I got mine from youngsfbody.com for under 30 without the knobs! It took only a few minutes to replace.
TIP! just pop the switch out of the new panel and replace that, rather than having to disconnect the whole panel. the faceplate pops off easy.
Good luck!
--alex
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11-24-2009, 03:48 AM #27Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
i will check out the site. i didn't know they had them. was it used or new?
i already replaced mine with a "u-pull" it. it was said to be in working condition. well that's why i don't gamble,
, i would lose my life savings, lol...
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11-24-2009, 04:00 AM #28Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
well i am not sure what wires go where but i tried to measure a bunch of combinations.
I have Black -> B
I have Brown -> Br
I have Purple -> P
I have Orange -> O
that is the order they are in from one direction as they are adjacent to each other. I only measured voltage.
Car off - did not push defrost switch
B to Br = < 1V
B to P = < -1V
B to O = 11.89
P to O = 11.90V
Br to P = -.23V
Br to O = 11.53V
Car on, running - did not push defrost switch
B to Br = 13.95V
B to P = < -1V
B to O = 14.00
P to O = 13.95V
Br to P = -13.84V
Br to O = 0V
Car ignition on, not running - pushing switch on/off, on/off as best i could
B to Br = 13.67V - i think the car may have been running here too
B to P = < -1V
B to O = ~12V - had car running for this ~13.79V
P to O = did not measure, gave up,
Br to P = -12.12V
Br to O = 0V
i have no idea what combinations should be zero and what should be 12V. I am assuming the negatives are reverse measurements. I held the black lead to the first color in my listings at all times, Black, or Brown, or Purple.
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11-24-2009, 04:53 AM #29
I have a 00Ta an if I put the rear defrost on it over heats the relay in my fuse box and then my seat dosn't move!!!!
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11-24-2009, 05:00 AM #30Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
i have heard that. the reset-able fuse. my seat works all the time and all of my fuses are good.
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11-24-2009, 05:27 AM #31
If your car utilizes the same switch as our Firebird, I can PM you the wire diagram and pinpoint tests to diagnose the defroster.
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11-24-2009, 05:39 AM #32

Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.
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11-24-2009, 05:41 AM #33
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11-24-2009, 05:43 AM #34
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11-24-2009, 06:14 AM #35Speak the truth
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Hugger Orange/W stripes- 1999 Z28 M6
Have you checked back at the window element where the power is connected? My connector had broken off. I'm assuming from repetitive closing of the hatch, but only separated enough to break the contact and was not easy to see.
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11-24-2009, 06:25 AM #36
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11-24-2009, 06:31 AM #37
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11-24-2009, 06:32 AM #38Senior Member
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Sebring Silver Metalic- 2002 Camaro Z28
ok, here is how my lazy lame butt posts pics,

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2954870/1
its at the bottom of the page.
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11-24-2009, 07:14 AM #39
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11-24-2009, 10:28 AM #40
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