Throwing AIR code, how to pass inspection?

**2000dreambird** · 09-10-2009, 05:36 AM

Is the pump repairable

**pajeff02** · 09-10-2009, 06:12 AM

Originally Posted by 2000dreambird

Is the pump repairable

It is simply an electric motor attached to a fan blade. Whether it is fixable depends on what you find. If the motor is burned out, then it would be toast. Otherwise, it could simply be crudded up, the wire connections may be corroded, or the air tubes could have a blockage.

**War Theory** · 09-10-2009, 06:39 AM

the pump in on the driver side lower left right?

**pajeff02** · 09-10-2009, 07:00 AM

Originally Posted by War Theory

the pump in on the driver side lower left right?

From underneath the vehicle, unbolt the splash shield in front of the driver side tire and pull it down -- you will be looking at the air pump.

**War Theory** · 09-10-2009, 07:59 AM

K will do...brb

**War Theory** · 09-10-2009, 03:26 PM

ok I checked all the fuse's checked all relay's all are cool. uh and I changed both valves...

un-pulled the hose from the pump and it sucked in air so that was cool I also blew into the hose's and checked for blockade nothing

here is what I still get

any idea's anyone?

**02z28ls1** · 09-10-2009, 06:04 PM

Notice where it says "PD" in the corner of the tester? That is for "pending". Also you flunked for readiness, not for a failure. Not sure why you can't get your vehicle in readiness mode but you need to do some city and hiway driving. Like I was saying about my customer the other day she went 60 miles each time and we had readiness and a successful test- after showing a pending code.
Key cycles are a factor in getting readiness also but not the whole picture. In other words just sitting there cycling the key off and on won't do it. Each manufacturer can have different parameters for test cycles on things like evaporative systems and whatnot, it's too complex to put in a factory repair manual for example, so it's not a standardized method. That's why there is so much confusion and no 'pat' answers for this stuff. As I said I'm not sure why you're not able to get readiness but I'm not there and you are, so you are going to have to do the test drives and stuff. 60 miles of city and hiway should either get readiness or the light on with a full failure code.
Also be aware that there are electronics that control when the air pump operates and that could be your problem instead of the air pump and mechanicals that inject the air. It operates at startup- but also when you let off the throttle after accelerating and cruise modes. You can see the headlights dim when it kicks in and if you pay attention to what you're doing at that time it becomes clear that's when the air pump kicks in. You may not have an operating code free system even if you replace the pump, and all the hardware associated with it, because it may be a problem with the control system.
Also be aware (you may be) that erasing the codes causes the readiness monitors to have to go through a resetting cycle.

**pajeff02** · 09-10-2009, 06:11 PM

My scan tool allows me to clear pending codes -- yours should also. If you still throw codes your next check would be to pull the rubber lines at the check valves (that you just installed) to ensure that your air is making it through the diverter valve.

Unhook the black plastic clamps and slide the hoses off. On cold start up you should have air blowing out both of the rubber hoses.

If not, you need to check the electrically operated solenoid and vacuum operated diverter valve as they may be your problem. Check for voltage at the solenoid and manifold vacuum at the source line, and then at the diverter valve.

**War Theory** · 09-10-2009, 07:49 PM

I did clear all the codes last week, than I did the valves and checked the fuse's after 4 days of driving everything checked out but the 02 senor than the SES light came on and gave me 0410 error. I checked all the hose ( the one on the driver side and the hose leading to the back sucked pretty good) I also checked the pump with also sucked pretty good.

**War Theory** · 09-10-2009, 08:07 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

My scan tool allows me to clear pending codes -- yours should also. If you still throw codes your next check would be to pull the rubber lines at the check valves (that you just installed) to ensure that your air is making it through the diverter valve.

Unhook the black plastic clamps and slide the hoses off. On cold start up you should have air blowing out both of the rubber hoses.

If not, you need to check the electrically operated solenoid and vacuum operated diverter valve as they may be your problem. Check for voltage at the solenoid and manifold vacuum at the source line, and then at the diverter valve.

It is 12:03 AM where I am at and it has been seating since 7:00 PM I unhooked both hose's and had wify start her up, it felt like a little sucking rather than pulling. So as far as " Check for voltage at the solenoid and manifold vacuum at the source line, and then at the diverter valve." where do I find that stuff? I know if you can point me again I will be able to fix it... thanks again for all the info

:

**00z28bubba** · 09-10-2009, 09:13 PM

do you absolutely need to have the system for your state emissions. if not try to find someone that can have it deleted from the comp. i have the air and egr systems removed and plan on doing that. nevada isnt strict at all for emissions. they just check the readiness codes and if 2 are pending or fail then you fail if 1 is pending or fails its ok.

**pajeff02** · 09-11-2009, 05:22 AM

Originally Posted by War Theory

It is 12:03 AM where I am at and it has been seating since 7:00 PM I unhooked both hose's and had wify start her up, it felt like a little sucking rather than pulling. So as far as " Check for voltage at the solenoid and manifold vacuum at the source line, and then at the diverter valve." where do I find that stuff? I know if you can point me again I will be able to fix it... thanks again for all the info

:

This thread starts with a good picture of the diverter valve and solenoid posted by ts|s: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106679

The diverter valve is situate between "B" and "A" and the solenoid is marked "C" in the picture. This is all on top of your engine, driver side, just under your cowl. The air lines from your check valves originate at the diverter valve, and the air line from your pump is also connected to this valve.

**War Theory** · 09-11-2009, 06:47 AM

I checked the hose's again the two that are behind the valve's I just did and both hose's did not blow a thing so should I get a whole new unit? or just the solenoid?

**pajeff02** · 09-11-2009, 07:55 AM

Originally Posted by War Theory

I checked the hose's again the two that are behind the valve's I just did and both hose's did not blow a thing so should I get a whole new unit? or just the solenoid?

As long as the test was performed with the engine cold you should have air blowing upon start up.

Test for both power and ground at the solenoid with a voltmeter or test light, and also confirm that you have vacuum at the input line to the solenoid. Then check to ensure that upon being energized the solenoid passes the vacuum signal to the diverter valve. The system only operates for a minute or two after cold startup, so you have to work quickly.

I have had my diverter valve apart from when I was diagnosing my system. It is just a simple diaphram and spring arrangement -- a handheld vacuum pump (like Mityvac) will also allow you to test its operation. Unless you have a break in a wire, or a bad fuse/relay to the solenoid, it has to be one of these components.

**War Theory** · 09-11-2009, 08:29 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

As long as the test was performed with the engine cold you should have air blowing upon start up.

Test for both power and ground at the solenoid with a voltmeter or test light, and also confirm that you have vacuum at the input line to the solenoid. Then check to ensure that upon being energized the solenoid passes the vacuum signal to the diverter valve. The system only operates for a minute or two after cold startup, so you have to work quickly.

I have had my diverter valve apart from when I was diagnosing my system. It is just a simple diaphram and spring arrangement -- a handheld vacuum pump (like Mityvac) will also allow you to test its operation. Unless you have a break in a wire, or a bad fuse/relay to the solenoid, it has to be one of these components.

hate to keep bothering you but how to I take it out would you have pic's?

**pajeff02** · 09-11-2009, 08:39 AM

Originally Posted by War Theory

hate to keep bothering you but how to I take it out would you have pic's?

You can do the vacuum and electrical checks on the car quite easily -- no need to remove anything.

If you do take it off, the diverter valve is simply clipped onto a metal bracket. Disconnect all three air hoses and the vacuum line and pull straight up to remove. You may need to bend a tab or something to release it.

**War Theory** · 09-11-2009, 09:04 AM

ook cool

**rabbitfoodeater** · 09-16-2009, 01:11 PM

I am having the same problem in my 2001 T/A. Had the SES light on and emissions coming up, so I scanned it at got P1416 (Secondary Emissions). So I started chasing down solutions: New Air Pump (SES came back on) and two new check valves (SES came back on again). I have cleared the code after every "fix" only to have it return after about 3 or 4 start-ups. A local GM mechanic said that if it isn't the air pump or the check valves themselves, it is probably something tied into those parts of the system (Like he mentioned the electric solenoid or a diaphragm(?)). Could it be anything else at all? I hoping that I am not overlooking anything.

**pajeff02** · 09-16-2009, 01:38 PM

Originally Posted by rabbitfoodeater

I am having the same problem in my 2001 T/A. Had the SES light on and emissions coming up, so I scanned it at got P1416 (Secondary Emissions). So I started chasing down solutions: New Air Pump (SES came back on) and two new check valves (SES came back on again). I have cleared the code after every "fix" only to have it return after about 3 or 4 start-ups. A local GM mechanic said that if it isn't the air pump or the check valves themselves, it is probably something tied into those parts of the system (Like he mentioned the electric solenoid or a diaphragm(?)). Could it be anything else at all? I hoping that I am not overlooking anything.

See Post #54 in this thread -- and if you have not yet done so, read through the rest of the posts as this pretty much covers it.

**02z28ls1** · 09-16-2009, 03:01 PM

I should mention that if you still have the stock air cleaner lid on- the noise cancellation setup will muffler the air inlet to the AIR pump. With my aftermarket lid I can hear the AIR pump operating, it sounds like a big vacuum cleaner. Might help you understand when it's on and off.