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Thread: SOOOO, I have a question??
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09-12-2009, 01:55 PM #1
SOOOO, I have a question??
Well, I couldn't help it.....With my day off I decided to take my Maro out for a super quick cruise with straight headers. Now here is where the questions come.... I have a Frost Tune (And in no way am I trying to imply anything about the tune, this is why I ask these questions) But the car runs like shit. I am thinking due to the tune being for a full 3" exhaust and not enough back pressure is why its running like shit. It damn near dies at every stop sign and has less power then before the H/C/supporting mods. I only drove it for about 5 miles due to many reasons. I would have never taken it out except for it being 1 year without my F-Body. Will the exhaust help these issues out. If it wasn't for waiting on my fucking Y-Pipe for over a month and still not shipped, my car would be done
So what does everyone think?
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09-12-2009, 01:57 PM #2
Oh, and oil pressure is great, no vaccum leaks, oil leaks, or anything of that nature. Just lack of power throught the band, more low end gone then top end but its power loss everywhere for sure. And barely idling after stopping. If I start it up and just let it idle, it idles fine. Just a little more info for everyone.
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09-12-2009, 03:09 PM #3
Ahh, these are honest questions, not trying to be a smartass. I know its not the right forum but kinda mad. Obviously the exhaust will help the tune but I know plenty of straight header cars that run crazy and mine runs like shit. This is my first H/C car in my life, had plenty of nice cars in my short life span but this car takes the cake and with all the money/time, want to make sure.
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09-12-2009, 03:13 PM #4
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My dad is having trouble upon start up hot and cold with his car. It wants to die and will if you let it, goes real low, rough, and finally after a few minutes it "catches up". None of this occured before the tune. And the abs light still hasn't turned off, it starts with only the rear wheels spinning on the dyno they told us. So i'm looking for a similar answer. It's not the spark plugs, but we are changing them anyway. Also cleaning the maf becuase the previous owner over oiled the K&N. I cleaned and properly oiled that. Then the o2 sensor will be changed
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09-12-2009, 03:45 PM #5
I have no check engine light, oil psi is 75 psi at idle, temp is a hair before 210 on dummy gauge. Plugs are brand new. The oil that we put on the cylinders before start up were gone in seconds. Full engine pull out/rip apart and it started after 5 seconds of cranking (NO JOKE) just don't get it. Can straight headers fuck it up that bad. If its the tune, I would not be mad at Frost because he warned me about the Torquer V2 being hard to tune and it is a mail order, he can only do so much.....He is not a miracle worker........ I just want to know if I should dyno tune it pretty much instantly. I am confused.
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09-12-2009, 03:56 PM #6
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Maybe send your physical computer back in, not an e-mail re-tune. I don't know which you did to begin with though. Maybe it stores the air/fuels etc. and he can correct it.
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09-12-2009, 04:22 PM #7
i would assume his mail order tune is more along the lines of something that you can limp the car to another tuner who can finish the tune for your area. there are alot of factors in any engine including environment. there is only so much frost can do without data logs and constant updates of whats going on with the engine seeing as how he is so far from you. i would suggest get ahold of a local tuner so they can get some one on one time with the car to fine tune it. a competent tuner can give better results because of the one on one time as opposed to going back and forth with info across the country. when you break into the engine every build has to have the proper attention. it will very rarely be a position to where everything you do will yield the same results as a friend doing the same thing across the country. just too many variables.
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09-12-2009, 04:27 PM #8
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black- 02 vette vert
it will cost a couple of bucks but you could try an experiment. get a pair of pipes smaller than your collector diameter and bolt them up to the collectors. they should be as long as you can fit in without banging the floor, sagging down etc. you should notice an improvement if its the open headers causing your problem. an old tuning trick is to swap different diameter and lengths of pipe off of the collectors to move the torque band up and down the rpm range a little. just like drag pipes on a harley, short pipes=better top end but a little loss down low, long pipes=more power on the bottom end with a little loss on the top end.
i just thought of something though, if you have the short tube headers they dont come down and run parallel with the floorpan and this might not work.Last edited by dklowrider; 09-12-2009 at 04:52 PM.
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09-12-2009, 05:37 PM #9
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69 hugger orange- 98 z28
sounds to me like it is your exhaust setup,open headers doesnt usually benefit a car unless it is making monstrous amounts of power and needs the open pipes to get rid of all the air it is using
and yeah it is hard to tune a car from across the country even if you are sending scans back and forth
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09-13-2009, 09:04 AM #10
Can't wait til my exhaust comes (y pipe) I wish I had cash to throw on some random pipe to try.
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09-13-2009, 03:33 PM #11
don't drive your car with open headers..... it's sucking air back up the headers and the O2's are seeing a lean condition and adding fuel. Put exhaust on it.
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09-13-2009, 03:34 PM #12
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09-13-2009, 05:46 PM #13
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