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Thread: Opti Install how-to/questions.
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02-12-2009, 10:54 AM #1
Opti Install how-to/questions.
Gonna order an opti and waterpump (stock) one of these days. I'm looking at either a Summit opti or the GMPP opti, whichever is recommended more on here. How is the opti-install? Is it straightforward? How about timing? Is it just a 'keyway' of sorts that just lines up slick-as-shit or will I have to do something special? The harmonic balancer has to come off as well, right?
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02-13-2009, 11:02 AM #2
Summit opti I belive is a new GM opti but cheaper. What year is the LT1? There where 2 different drive systems used on the LT1 opti's. I belive the H/B dose need to come off. cant remember, haven't done one latley.
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02-13-2009, 12:04 PM #3
Its a 97, so im pretty sure its the vented one.
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02-13-2009, 05:20 PM #4
Damn, good look with it. As far as the 97 not to sure but the 94 the waterpump and the balancer have to come off. I dont think timing will be off, atleast it didnt affect it on the 94. Good look and I would buy a the book for it to make thing easier.
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02-13-2009, 06:45 PM #5
I havea haynes manual, but they're very vague and don't always know what they're talking about. Hence why I always ask these things on here.
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02-13-2009, 09:25 PM #6
I have a spare out in the shed I'd have to look at once the sun comes up. I belive that there are 3 ways the Opti drive will engage and 2 are going to be wrong. Finding TDC on #1 and marking where the rotor tab is when you take it off would be the best way to change it. Oh and yes the water pump H/B and possibly the power steering pump will have to come off. Here is what the Chiltons says about installing the distributor.
Do not try to fully seat the distrib using bolts! If it will not seat by hand it's not properly aligned with the camshaft. Rotate the crankshaft until the engine is at the # 1 Cylinder TDC (camshaft sprocket Pin at the 9 o"clock position) Rotate the distrib coupling until the camshaft sprocket pin slot aligns with the distrib base timming mark. Install the distrib using hand pressure to fully seat the disrib.
Hope that helps abit. Good luck with it and I'll look at mine in the morning and post back to refresh my memory.
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02-14-2009, 02:10 AM #7
There are a few good write ups on the web covering an opti install... with pics. Brent Franker has one on his page.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/guides.htm
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02-14-2009, 09:05 AM #8
Thanks, but all the links on that webpage are dead! :-x
Wouldn't it be easiest to just pull the opti straight -off the drive pin, align the new one, and put it back on the same way it came off? Kinda like changing a timing belt without moving the cam/crank gears at all?
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02-14-2009, 11:41 AM #9
There are other links on the net, just gotta search for them.
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02-23-2009, 09:45 AM #10
on the 95 you will have to turn the motor over so that the #1 plug is firing. You can feel for it. When this is done the pin will line right up. And also on the 95 the timing is all in the computer. Dont have to worry about it. But don't know if the 97 is the same.
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02-23-2009, 05:26 PM #11
I think from what i've gathered is 93/94 had the non-vented opti, and the 95-97 had the vented 'gen 2' opti. Whether the pin drive system is the same or not I do not know. Whats the easiest way to find TDC with this engine?
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02-28-2009, 09:50 PM #12
You don't have to find TDC on any Opti install. I have changed few of them over the years and it's not hard but is time consuming. GM changed the drive system in mid 95 when they went to the vented design. Other than that, the installation is straight forward and there is no way that you can get the timing incorrect unless of course...you mix up the firing order of the wires.
http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47479
http://shbox.com/ci/opti_mounting.jpg
http://shbox.com/ci/opti_vent.jpg
http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm
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03-01-2009, 11:05 AM #13
seems pretty straight forward then, pull it off, align the pin on the new one, and replace. Is it possible to put the new opti on '180 degrees out'?
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03-03-2009, 04:26 AM #14
- Join Date
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black- 2002 firehawk 94 Z28
i would rather change the opti than change plug wires i hated it.
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03-03-2009, 09:51 AM #15
I'm catching that drift now, that the opti change isnt THAT hard, just expensive. The plugs and wires were a MOTHERFUCKER. 4 nights to change 6...neighbor kid changed the last 2 for me, my arms were simply too big to fit between the manifold and strut tower.
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03-04-2009, 08:32 AM #16
the slot with the index mark is the one you place over the pin on the camshaft. also take the time to change the optiseal and the w/p seal while you are in there . don't lube the big opti seal. It has to be installed dry. http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...TOPIC_ID=30984Last edited by Ironroad9c1; 03-04-2009 at 12:56 PM. Reason: fixed links
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03-04-2009, 11:58 AM #17
dead link and dead picture, sounded helpful though
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03-04-2009, 12:57 PM #18
Can you see it now?
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03-04-2009, 01:05 PM #19
Yes, and thank you! Seems SOOOO easy now, cept for the seal part. About that water pump shaft seal and o-rings..should they be done as well? Anyone priced those pieces out?
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03-08-2009, 08:20 AM #20
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1994 Z28 MQBM- 2001 SS #1629 LPM
Opti's are easy, like stated just time consuming. MAKE SURE you remember to put the water pump drive coupler back on! Alot of folks forget to do this and then can't figure out why it is overheating.
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