Lt1 Getting hot

[side2000]

i completely misread the whole "no heat" issue. thats what happens when you skip a bunch a posts n jump to the end. ok if you have no heat that means theres no fluid in the core. even if there was fluid in core and it wasnt flowing it would still get hot enough for you to notice. i think easiest way to find out if youre flowin to core would be to stick a pin or a pick into the hose right where it meets the firewall to see if it squirts out (you can just cut this hole off and re-hook) and then do the same thing comin OUT. if your cabin fan works, you have no heat, this test will answer two questions: is your pump workin and is your heater core clogged.

[ls1_02]

will the car overheat when youre drivin? did you check to make sure both fans were workin? dont flush anymore. that's not the problem and you might create the air pocket problem. when you yanked your thermo---did you have fan on from idle til it overheated? this is important.

it got hot just going around the block, I haven't tried driving it since I done all the extra stuff trying to keep it cooled down but my guess is it will still get hot. I am pretty sure I had the on the entire time but I may have waited 5min then turned them on.

[side2000]

well try what i suggested with heater core lines. i think thats your problem. it'd be too big a cooincidence for the problem to be somethin not related in some fashion to your heater core. like i said if your cabin fan blows and it doenst blow hot when your sh!t's overheatin that core has gotta be empty. only question is "why" its empty.

[ls1_02]

i completely misread the whole "no heat" issue. thats what happens when you skip a bunch a posts n jump to the end. ok if you have no heat that means theres no fluid in the core. even if there was fluid in core and it wasnt flowing it would still get hot enough for you to notice. i think easiest way to find out if youre flowin to core would be to stick a pin or a pick into the hose right where it meets the firewall to see if it squirts out (you can just cut this hole off and re-hook) and then do the same thing comin OUT. if your cabin fan works, you have no heat, this test will answer two questions: is your pump workin and is your heater core clogged.

last night I bypassed the heater core to check if the heater core was the problem- I put a piece of copper tubing to connect both hoses together and I cranked it up and within a few min I had water coming leaking pretty good around the tubing...so it is flowing to it I just don't know if it is making it back to the block... I know the heater core is good b/c it flowed fine when I flushed it out. what do you think.

[side2000]

did you clamp down on the connector pipe? if you had it clamped down and it leaked it musta had a ton of pressure so i'd say you got a clog aft the core. BUT that still doesnt explain the fact your heat doesnt work. if the block was aft the core your heat would still work fine, or at least it would blow warm enough to know.

[side2000]

you might as well keep the core bypassed. that just keeps it out of the equation. clamp down real good on your connector tube-use a socket if ya need to in order to keep it from leakin.

[ls1_02]

did you clamp down on the connector pipe? if you had it clamped down and it leaked it musta had a ton of pressure so i'd say you got a clog aft the core. BUT that still doesnt explain the fact your heat doesnt work. if the block was aft the core your heat would still work fine, or at least it would blow warm enough to know.

well I had a clamp on it but one of the hoses had bad angle and it was a little big for the copper piping.... but the water was warm coming out so I don't know why the heat wouldn't work. if the return hose was clogged would that possibly let the water in the line cool off enough that it wouldn't heat? but I flushed through both line the feed and the return and both of them backfilled the radiator... any other ideas?

[side2000]

also were you able to keep it runnnin long enough to see if you overheated before it started leakin? if ya didn't--still clamp those heater lines down real good on you're bypass tube and give it another whirl. even if it leaks a little keep it runnin to finish test or maybe rough the outside of the tube up a little to get some better grip.

[side2000]

nah no matter what if that water has a path to the heater core-even if it's blocked, the water will still be hot from residual heat-the pump is still tryin to pump to the blocked area and hot runs to cold.

[ls1_02]

also were you able to keep it runnnin long enough to see if you overheated before it started leakin? if ya didn't--still clamp those heater lines down real good on you're bypass tube and give it another whirl. even if it leaks a little keep it runnin to finish test or maybe rough the outside of the tube up a little to get some better grip.

I was able to see it get up to about 240 then I killed it... it usually runs 190- 200. you don't think the water pump may not be pumping hard enough?

[side2000]

well see the more stuff ya diagnose not to be the problem the more ridiculous the possibilities can be. does it seem like it warms up in the same amount of time? once the needle goes up will it ever come back down? before ya do anything else run to the store and grab a temp guage. wont take long nor is it expensive. there's a water jacket in the head you can plumb it into and there are a couple in the block. i'd do that before you go spendin any more money on parts. i think you said the water was 210 when you stuck a thermo down there....that sounds more normal than broke to me. if ya do that and it reads same as dash i'd replace those small heater lines for cheap and then do the water pump as a last resort.

[ls1_02]

well see the more stuff ya diagnose not to be the problem the more ridiculous the possibilities can be. does it seem like it warms up in the same amount of time? once the needle goes up will it ever come back down? before ya do anything else run to the store and grab a temp guage. wont take long nor is it expensive. there's a water jacket in the head you can plumb it into and there are a couple in the block. i'd do that before you go spendin any more money on parts. i think you said the water was 210 when you stuck a thermo down there....that sounds more normal than broke to me. if ya do that and it reads same as dash i'd replace those small heater lines for cheap and then do the water pump as a last resort.

ok I will try that, I'll post an update... probably won't get to it until thursday. thanks for your help

[side2000]

ten4.

[9t8z28]

I tried jacking up the drivers side rear and the passenger rear... didn't help. I flushed the heater core with both hoses off and with one hose off to back feed the radiator until it over flowed... didn't help still no heater and the car is getting very hot. what else other than a bad waterpump could it be? oreillys told me that 40-50% off the time the reman water pumps come back bad. which leads me to think maybe the it is the waterpump. any more help would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah, they come back because they leak, not because they do not work. That guy doesn't know his own ass from a hole in the ground!

[ls1_02]

Yeah, they come back because they leak, not because they do not work. That guy doesn't know his own ass from a hole in the ground!

ok thats good to know! hopefully I'll figure this thing out!!!

[Chad97SS]

you can't expect the engine to stay cool with the cap off and running on a under pressurized system or no pressure, as in the case with the cap off. Engines run cool because of the pressure and that helps circulation. A system that is no pressurized will not circulate well.

also, with the engine cold, and the front of the car slightly elevated, fill the radiator. You can start it a few time to circulate the water when its cold. So fill it while its OVERNIGHT stone cold. Then cap it! let it warm while the front of the car is still elevated and bleed the air out of the thermometer and the upper water line. I think that is one of 2 that go to the heater core. Its been a while, I'll havbe to look, but there are 2 bleeder valves.. just bleed the air out of the thermometer FIRST! Then do the higher one. Air pockets go up! So do the lower thermo first...

ya and make sure your thermostat is not in backwards. good lord. haha

ps. i've never had trash in my lines. (whatever trash is)

[Chad97SS]

also, when the engine gets hot , yes it pushes out water. Not Good. When it cools, the water level drops and sucks water back into the radiator from the RESERVIOR!! If you RES is empty then your sucking in air when it cools and thats not what you want to do. The system will naturally push out air in the radiator to the RES when it gets hot and then if there is water in the RES, the RAD will suck water back in. So it will purge itself IF YOU FOLLOW THE BASIC RULES and think about it!

[ls1_02]

[QUOTE=Chad97SS;1700647]also, when the engine gets hot , yes it pushes out water. Not Good. When it cools, the water level drops and sucks water back into the radiator from the RESERVIOR!! If you RES is empty then your sucking in air when it cools and thats not what you want to do. The system will naturally push out air in the radiator to the RES when it gets hot and then if there is water in the RES, the RAD will suck water back in. So it will purge itself IF YOU FOLLOW THE BASIC RULES and think about it![/QUOT[/I]


I assure you I have tried everthing, I have owned many cars and never had this much trouble....I don't think trash is in the lines either b/c I flushed the entire system... I am confident I bled the entire system too! I believe the water pump is the cuprit b/c the bleeder valve you speak of on the heater core line just trickles out water it doesn't shoot out like the bleeder by the thermo... is this normal? I keep hearing that the pump only is bad when it leaks but I think it could be a faulty impeller in the water pump.

[Chad97SS]

Ok last night I said when it pushes water out when its hot, that its not good. But what I mean is that is how it's designed to operate. But if the cap is off then it starts to warm up, and push water out, that's not going to be good. So anyway, if it just trickles out, that may be normal depending upon how much you open it with the screw driver. Or it could mean there is air in the system and a little water is coming out with the air. But the engine should be hot AND the CAP must be on to have it work properly.

NO CAPPY = NO PRESSURE = NO SQUIRTY


This is not that hard,,,

[9t8z28]

Ok last night I said when it pushes water out when its hot, that its not good. But what I mean is that is how it's designed to operate. But if the cap is off then it starts to warm up, and push water out, that's not going to be good. So anyway, if it just trickles out, that may be normal depending upon how much you open it with the screw driver. Or it could mean there is air in the system and a little water is coming out with the air. But the engine should be hot AND the CAP must be on to have it work properly.

NO CAPPY = NO PRESSURE = NO SQUIRTY


This is not that hard,,,

NO SQUIRTY! Haha!