Fuel Pressure Tester Kit?

[GottaHaveLS1]

I've been trying to find a kit that will work for my 99 T/A for a while and have had no luck. I bought one that I later found out only works for 83-96 GM cars and it didn't work when i attached it to my shraeder valve. Does anyone know where I can rent/buy one? I should probably also consider the gauges that i can attach and leave under the hood right?

[thearborbarber]

harbor freight is where I got mine. It came with a series of different connectors.

[GottaHaveLS1]

never heard of that place. i'm in ct

[thearborbarber]

do a google search they are a mail order tool company.

[Engine_HP]

ive been searching for the same thing , but i want one that has the Pressure relief valve

[Cutlass]

I've been trying to find a kit that will work for my 99 T/A for a while and have had no luck. I bought one that I later found out only works for 83-96 GM cars and it didn't work when i attached it to my shraeder valve. Does anyone know where I can rent/buy one? I should probably also consider the gauges that i can attach and leave under the hood right?

GM has been using the same Schrader valve all those years and up to the current years, so it should work.

[0rion]

GM has been using the same Schrader valve all those years and up to the current years, so it should work.

I would imagine they're not scaled to go up high enough is the reason they won't work on the 97+ cars.

[Cutlass]

F.I. fuel pressures are all about the same throughout all those years (except TBI). Generally between 30 and 60psi.

[ls1camino]

Are you guys removing the Schrader valve or does the testing kit push it in?

[Engine_HP]

which one should i buy any brand part number would be great help.

[Firebirdjones]

The schrader valve stays intact. Just screw the fuel pressure gauge on and you are good to go.
You can pick up the portable fuel pressure gauges at any good local auto parts store.
They come with a rather short hose though. So it's only good for testing while standing under the hood.

I prefer to drive the car under load so here is what I use.

I use old A/C R12 hose,,,,(has the same fitting) and the A/C charge hoses are about 3-4 feet long. I take 2 of those R12 hoses and connect them together. I even use the an old R12 gauge on the end that reads to 200 psi,,,lol.

With this length of hose I can run it out from under the hood and duct tape it to the windshield and go for a drive. Watch pressure under different loads and make sure the fuel pump isn't just holding pressure while idling in the garage. Sometime they look great while idling, but are too weak to hold enough pressure while loading the engine in high gear, and cause lean conditions.

This has worked great on numerous cars for me.

[joedude02]

Exactly the way I do it!

[pajeff02]

Picked up one at Sears a few weeks ago: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=fuel+pressure

[2k-Trans]

I just rented one from autozone for my 2001 chevy truck. The kit came with with a TON of adapters in it and a multimeter.

If you have an autozone around i'd try this first.

Mine did have a schrader valve which it pushed down itself and I actually didn't need any of the adapters for mine.

about $140 deposit, but it's returned once you bring it back in full.

[Engine_HP]

Picked up one at Sears a few weeks ago: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=fuel+pressure

did it fit the ls1 ?

[pajeff02]

did it fit the ls1 ?

Actually, have not tried it. I loaned it to Zapper for him to test his LT1's fuel pressure and it worked on his car. I believe a GM Schrader valve is the same through the F-body years, but I could be wrong. Found this on Wikipedia:

Schrader valves are classified by their material, diameter of intended rim hole, length, and shape.

TR-4 - straight metal stem (8 mm dia.)
TR-6 - straight metal stem (8 mm dia.)
TR-13 - straight rubber stem (11.5 mm dia.)
TR-15 - straight rubber stem (16 mm dia.)
TR-87 - short 90° metal stem (10 mm dia.)
TR-87C - tall 90° metal stem (10 mm dia.)
The standard Schrader valve has the following threads:

External thread

Metric: 7.7 mm OD, thread root diameter is 6.9 mm x 0.794 mm pitch.
English: 0.305 in OD, thread root diameter 0.302 in x 32 tpi (threads per inch)
Internal thread (to accept the threaded valve core)

Metric: 5.30 mm OD x 0.706 mm pitch
English: 0.209 in OD x 36 tpi.

[Firebirdjones]

Actually, have not tried it. I loaned it to Zapper for him to test his LT1's fuel pressure and it worked on his car. I believe a GM Schrader valve is the same through the F-body years, but I could be wrong. Found this on Wikipedia:

Schrader valves are classified by their material, diameter of intended rim hole, length, and shape.

TR-4 - straight metal stem (8 mm dia.)
TR-6 - straight metal stem (8 mm dia.)
TR-13 - straight rubber stem (11.5 mm dia.)
TR-15 - straight rubber stem (16 mm dia.)
TR-87 - short 90° metal stem (10 mm dia.)
TR-87C - tall 90° metal stem (10 mm dia.)
The standard Schrader valve has the following threads:

External thread

Metric: 7.7 mm OD, thread root diameter is 6.9 mm x 0.794 mm pitch.
English: 0.305 in OD, thread root diameter 0.302 in x 32 tpi (threads per inch)
Internal thread (to accept the threaded valve core)

Metric: 5.30 mm OD x 0.706 mm pitch
English: 0.209 in OD x 36 tpi.

You are correct, among the Fbodies they are all the same shrader valve. I've used the same gauge setup on my 88 Iroc, my 97 Z28 and both of our LS1 Fbodies.

[sutie]

i know those are nice to have, but why dont you just get a fuel pressure guage so you can constantly see whats going on? takes like 10 minutes to install.

[Firebirdjones]

Perminant installs are nice to have on the cars I toy with at the track. For our primarily street driven 4th gens there isn't a need. I don't want all the gauges hanging in the car anyway.
Once I check the pressure and go for a full throttle run to see if it maintains pressure, that's about all that it's needed for.
Only when there is a tuning problem or some other suspected failure will the gauge come out. Only takes 20 seconds to throw it on and tape it to the windshield.