What is this knocking noise...lifter?

**HotRodLincoln** · 05-09-2008, 05:07 PM

Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro

2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette

2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird

2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2001-2003 GMC Sierra

with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)

Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).

Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.

Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

(F and Y Cars)
1

12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

(C/K Trucks)
1

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Usage
Labor Time

J1060
Pickup Tube and Screen - Replace
F Car
3.7 hrs

**LETHALxLS1** · 05-09-2008, 08:09 PM

- Ticking at any RPM- 2 hours on a Sunday wasted when nothing wrong was found

- Ticking at cold startup that goes away when warm- 1 hour on internet reading about piston slap

- A ticking noise that is different from others and starts after 2000-3000 miles that is the result of a torn/ripped O ring between the oil pump and oil pump screen which causes aeration of the oil- Priceless

**OSU Football Fan** · 05-10-2008, 08:54 AM

Any advice on my engine would be greatly appreciated.
I have an 01 Z28 A4 with a basically stock engine (Except for an SLP intake).
When the engine idles you can hear a clicking noise. The clicking sound is
quiter than the youtube post by the original poster. The guy I bought the
car from a year ago said it did that the entire time he owned it. (Approx.
20,000+ miles). The price was so cheap I bought it anyways.
The car clicks at idle, But at about 20 - 25 mph you can't here it anymore.
The clicking becomes lighter when the car is moved from park to drive.
(My mechanic told me since the clicking changed when you do that
that it wasn't a rod. Definatly a releif).
Anyways I don't know a whole lot about LS1 engines. I've always worked
on carburated 350 engines from my classic impala. If I were to guess I
would say my clicking sound is somewhere in my valvetrain. Rocker,
Pushrod, or Lifter. I'm hoping it's not the cam.
I would assume that it's not piston slap since my car uses very little oil.
(If I have piston slap wouldn't I be losing a lot of oil blowby due to
damaged piston rings?)

Any feedback would be appreciated.
This tread has convinced me to take my valve cover off to see what
I can see, So that's my next move.

**LETHALxLS1** · 05-10-2008, 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by OSU Football Fan

Any advice on my engine would be greatly appreciated.
I have an 01 Z28 A4 with a basically stock engine (Except for an SLP intake).
When the engine idles you can hear a clicking noise. The clicking sound is
quiter than the youtube post by the original poster. The guy I bought the
car from a year ago said it did that the entire time he owned it. (Approx.
20,000+ miles). The price was so cheap I bought it anyways.
The car clicks at idle, But at about 20 - 25 mph you can't here it anymore.
The clicking becomes lighter when the car is moved from park to drive.
(My mechanic told me since the clicking changed when you do that
that it wasn't a rod. Definatly a releif).
Anyways I don't know a whole lot about LS1 engines. I've always worked
on carburated 350 engines from my classic impala. If I were to guess I
would say my clicking sound is somewhere in my valvetrain. Rocker,
Pushrod, or Lifter. I'm hoping it's not the cam.
I would assume that it's not piston slap since my car uses very little oil.
(If I have piston slap wouldn't I be losing a lot of oil blowby due to
damaged piston rings?)

Any feedback would be appreciated.
This tread has convinced me to take my valve cover off to see what
I can see, So that's my next move.

My car has piston slap and burns 0 oil. Piston slap is not from damaged piston rings. If you have piston slap it will go away once the engine warms up.

**matt100psi** · 05-12-2008, 10:46 PM

Same I got, you don't really hear it at higher RPMs, but it doesn't go away as the engine warms up. Well, I've checked all my rods and rockers now, and it isn't them. This weekend I'll go a-listenin' around the exhaust some more to see if maybe it's a leak somewhere there, though I don't think so.

Matt

**knappbunch** · 05-13-2008, 09:08 AM

Originally Posted by matt100psi

Same I got, you don't really hear it at higher RPMs, but it doesn't go away as the engine warms up. Well, I've checked all my rods and rockers now, and it isn't them. This weekend I'll go a-listenin' around the exhaust some more to see if maybe it's a leak somewhere there, though I don't think so.

Matt

have a mountaneer and the egr tube was leeking (exhaust) sounded exactly like a lifter.

**LETHALxLS1** · 05-13-2008, 09:59 AM

I have had an exhaust manifold leak and it sounded like a ticking noise.

**c5z28** · 05-13-2008, 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1

I have had an exhaust manifold leak and it sounded like a ticking noise.

How and where did you discover the leak and how did you fix it, did you have to put on new gaskets?

**c5z28** · 05-13-2008, 10:22 AM

Originally Posted by knappbunch

have a mountaneer and the egr tube was leeking (exhaust) sounded exactly like a lifter.

Where exactly ws the leaking in the egr coming from, and how did you find it?

**LETHALxLS1** · 05-13-2008, 10:27 AM

Originally Posted by c5z28

How and where did you discover the leak and how did you fix it, did you have to put on new gaskets?

All I had to do was tighten the exhaust manifold bolts. Just try to tighten each one and you may find a few are kinda loose. No new gasket. Easy fix.

**knappbunch** · 05-13-2008, 11:00 AM

Originally Posted by c5z28

Where exactly ws the leaking in the egr coming from, and how did you find it?

it's a tube that runs from exhaust manifold to the intake and is a dealer only item but I had ti replace it. it had a small almost unoticable crack in it.

**cookiemonster2** · 05-23-2008, 04:58 PM

mine only does it cold few seconds at startup /lifter for sure

**Black Dragon** · 05-27-2008, 04:22 PM

I added Rislone to my oil and that seems to have made the noise go away. It does say that it quiets noisy lifters right on the bottle.

**GNICTRY** · 06-28-2008, 08:04 AM

well got cam /rod/ lifters...ect in and no more noise the rods looked straight so we are assuming it was the lifters

**bills98ta** · 06-28-2008, 08:09 AM

**GNICTRY** · 06-28-2008, 02:47 PM

Originally Posted by bills98ta

agreed

**LETHALxLS1** · 07-02-2008, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by GNICTRY

agreed

+1 gotta love it!

**Frost** · 07-03-2008, 05:51 AM

yep, the car goes back on the dyno today

**GNICTRY** · 07-03-2008, 06:00 AM

**timboo04** · 05-09-2012, 10:52 PM

i have a simular problem and are not sure what it is...it doesnt start knocking until after the car is warmed up and it is coming from the passenger side of the motor...sounds too high up to be a rod...and after it is warmed up it only really knocks around 3000 rpms or more, not at idle...so i dont think its a valve but a lifter, maybe?...and if so can i replace those without pulling the heads off?...cause if i have to pull a head i might as well put some 5.3 heads on there and get a little higher compression...