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  1. #21
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    I just replaced my tires, performed the rotor removal/turn/retorque procedure and replaced the front radius rod bushing. I am still feeling a little shake from 65-80 although it is nothing like it used to be. I will check the strut mounts tonight, but does anyone else have any other ideas about WTF is going on? I can't think of many other things that would cause the shake!

  2. #22
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    OK, now my shake starts at 80 MPH. It is not as bad as the origional shake (prior to my 'fixes') but it is still there. I have also noticed that it is worse when I am coasting as opposed to foot on the throttle. It is non-existant during cornering.

    Yesterday I checked my strut bushings and they appear to be OK (no cracks and decent amount of springback when I turn the nut).

    WTF is going on?

  3. #23
    Awaiting Activation 5.7literMustangEater's Avatar
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    Rotors Warpped?

    Quote Originally Posted by surfinjoe View Post
    OK, now my shake starts at 80 MPH. It is not as bad as the origional shake (prior to my 'fixes') but it is still there. I have also noticed that it is worse when I am coasting as opposed to foot on the throttle. It is non-existant during cornering.

    Yesterday I checked my strut bushings and they appear to be OK (no cracks and decent amount of springback when I turn the nut).

    WTF is going on?
    Hey Man, sounds like the shake is getting to you. I suggest checking the rotors because they are probably warpped. I just took my front wheels off to paint and I noticed when I turned the rotor thru the caliper it would get stuck and then free itself, so the rotors were affected by the heat build-up and warpped. This sounds like the problem you're having now since you cleaned the hub. Your rotors probably aren't as warpped as mine, since you say you're experiencing a slight shake now. Just a thought man! Good luck, I think we all need a little of it with this damn wheel shake up front. LOL!!!!!!

  4. #24
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    Yea, I am getting tired of the shake issue. I have already spent a lot of $$ to attempt to fix the issue with little or no results. The most progress that I made was with the 'free' clean & retorque thing. I just can't believe that a $35,000 car with ~16K miles rides like this. I had a 94 Beretta that had less issues and I paid like $10 for the car! It feels like GM's quality is going in reverse here. I love the car, but they really needed to do a better job designing the suspension and brakes!

  5. #25
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfinjoe View Post
    Yea, I am getting tired of the shake issue. I have already spent a lot of $$ to attempt to fix the issue with little or no results. The most progress that I made was with the 'free' clean & retorque thing. I just can't believe that a $35,000 car with ~16K miles rides like this. I had a 94 Beretta that had less issues and I paid like $10 for the car! It feels like GM's quality is going in reverse here. I love the car, but they really needed to do a better job designing the suspension and brakes!
    I would take the caliper off and spin the rotor by hand and feel that sealed bearing I already spoke of.

    Also being that the 04 was the first year it actually had less issues than Many other models in the beginning. That is a reason I try to never buy a first year of a new car.

    Good Luck.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

  6. #26
    Junior Member monarocv8's Avatar
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    he is correct about the hub bearing assembly being the problem not the suspension.
    Last edited by monarocv8; 04-11-2008 at 11:51 PM.

  7. #27
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    OK, I will try and feel the bearing. What am I looking for? In my experience, a bad bearing typically makes a grinding sound and my car is not making any sounds like this.

  8. #28
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfinjoe View Post
    OK, I will try and feel the bearing. What am I looking for? In my experience, a bad bearing typically makes a grinding sound and my car is not making any sounds like this.
    It van make a noise but you must remember it's NOT a tapered bearing that would make the noise your referring to. Being that it is a sealed bearing you need to feel for a stiffness/harmonic as you are spinning it. I have had some that have had a "stiff spot" you could feel by hand. I would remove the caliper then take the rotor off the hub. Now you are just spinning the hub. More than likely you'll need to take a good heavy hammer and tap on the front of the hub ring (middle of the rotor) while pulling on the back of the rotor and rotating to pull the rotor off evenly. The rotors hat fit's very tightly on the hub ring.
    Anyways you can spin the hub quickly by using a wheel stud. You can also check for looseness in the bearing by trying to tilt the hub in different directions. You can usually feel when it has issues.

  9. #29
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    Is there a 'sealed bearing' rebuild kit or do I need the Pedders $360 hub/bearing assy.? I would hate to spend that kind of cash on a fucking bearing! It seems crazy that a car with 16K miles needs a new wheel bearing, but I am willing to go with it for now! If it doesn't fix the issue I don't know where to turn next!

  10. #30
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    OK, I answered my own question. Thanks!

  11. #31
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    It's the bearing assembly that the rotor floats on. It's a sealed bearing assembly. $150-170
    Click for full size


    http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...MHA590007.html
    Quote Originally Posted by surfinjoe View Post
    Is there a 'sealed bearing' rebuild kit or do I need the Pedders $360 hub/bearing assy.? I would hate to spend that kind of cash on a fucking bearing! It seems crazy that a car with 16K miles needs a new wheel bearing, but I am willing to go with it for now! If it doesn't fix the issue I don't know where to turn next!

    I would buy a regular bearing assembly not anything more expensive from Pedders.

  12. #32
    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    ok soo guys. i was under my car yest taking pics of everything that could be causing the shaking that i will post later for you experts to analyze. When i spun my rotor in the air the tire was still on. i didnt see any stopping but would that be because the tire was on and the weight was just rolling it? furthermore should i take the tire off and just spin the rotor alone to see if there is any hesitations?
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  13. #33
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    yes, you need to take the wheel off. the weight of the wheel spinning could hide the hangup. it takes very little deflection to get you a shake at road speeds. turn it fast and also slow to see if you can feel or hear a tight spot. good luck

  14. #34
    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    yes, you need to take the wheel off. the weight of the wheel spinning could hide the hangup. it takes very little deflection to get you a shake at road speeds. turn it fast and also slow to see if you can feel or hear a tight spot. good luck
    ahh damnit! lol. well almost. ill have to do it again. thanks though buddy! i hope i fix this soon

  15. #35
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    lol its amazing how little shakes and rattles can be such a pain I the butt and even expensive to fix

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    lol its amazing how little shakes and rattles can be such a pain I the butt and even expensive to fix
    unbearable pain in the butt!! lol

  17. #37
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    Not just a pain in the butt! My shake makes the car feel a little unsafe. Not to mention that it reminds me of a Trecel out of the 80's! It sounds like the wheel hub/bearing is a complete POS! I wonder if GM fixed this for the G8?

  18. #38
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    OK, so I took the wheel and rotor off yesterday and tried to 'feel' the bearing. What I found is that the bearing has some resistance (won't continue to spin if I let go of the stud). I didn't notice any stiff spots, but in my opinion the entire bearing seemed a little stiff. Is it supposed to spin free or is there supposed to be some resistance? I only checked the drivers side due to time, but this is what I found. I must get this 80 MPH+ shake gone.

    These are the things that I have done so far:

    1) New radius rod bushings (front only)
    2) New front sway bar bushings & endlinks
    3) Rotated the rims & mounted new tires (Kuhmo's)
    4) Removed the rotors, rotated them a lug or two and hand-torqued the lugs to 90 ft./lbs/
    5) Inspected the hub bearing by spinning it

    Nothing so far has worked.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfinjoe View Post
    OK, so I took the wheel and rotor off yesterday and tried to 'feel' the bearing. What I found is that the bearing has some resistance (won't continue to spin if I let go of the stud). I didn't notice any stiff spots, but in my opinion the entire bearing seemed a little stiff. Is it supposed to spin free or is there supposed to be some resistance? I only checked the drivers side due to time, but this is what I found. I must get this 80 MPH+ shake gone.

    These are the things that I have done so far:

    1) New radius rod bushings (front only)
    2) New front sway bar bushings & endlinks
    3) Rotated the rims & mounted new tires (Kuhmo's)
    4) Removed the rotors, rotated them a lug or two and hand-torqued the lugs to 90 ft./lbs/
    5) Inspected the hub bearing by spinning it

    Nothing so far has worked.
    man dude. i feel bad for ya. i hope you fix it soon so your nerves can be at rest,lol. hang in there buddy!

  20. #40
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    Thanks! I am ready for this to be over! I am also in the middle of a finishing an master suite addition to my house (without any help) so I am strapped for time. I also owe the GTO a day at the spa (clay bar, zaino & the works)! Somewhere in the middle I need to beat the dogs, hug the kids and pay attention to my wife before someone else does! Oh yea, did I mention that the kids want the pool opened next week!


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