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Thread: SFC install
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04-11-2006, 06:30 AM #1
SFC install
Anyone have an idea for what a good price would be for having a shop weld in some SFC? I've been looking around for prices, just thought i'd ask.
1999 Trans Am M6
SLP Short Throw, Lid and CAI, Strano Springs, Koni Sport Shocks, BMR STB and SFC, UMI PHB, Pacesetter LT's and ORY, Magnaflow Catback, DMH 3" E-Cutout, LS7 Clutch, Motive 4.10, 160 T-Stat, MSD wires,, 17x9.5 Chrome C6's wrapped in Hankook 275/40/17
Tuned at Mongillo Motors in New Haven, CT - 303 RWHP and 308 RWTQ
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04-11-2006, 07:00 PM #2
Which subframe connectors are they?
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04-12-2006, 02:55 AM #3
Tubular BMR weld in
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04-12-2006, 06:29 AM #4
It should take around 2.0 hours to install those subframe connectors so it really depends on the hourly rate in your area. I know here in CA it ranges between $60.00 to $90.00 depending on where you live. Hopes this helps a little.
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04-13-2006, 07:15 PM #5
i was quoted 2 hours as well.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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04-13-2006, 07:42 PM #6
- Join Date
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Custom Slate Blue- 99 B4C
dang, two hours? Is there somethign to SFCs that I don't know about? Seems that it would be a quick and simple install
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04-16-2006, 09:18 PM #7Green MonkeyGuest
Originally Posted by z_driver1
Jack up the car and place 2 jack stands under the rear inner frame rails (rails that run next to fuel filter)and two under the front a-arms. If possible, it is preferable to place the front tires on ramps. Jack up the rearend until the lower control arms are close to parallel with the ground and leave the rearend supported with the jack.. DO NOT SUPPORT BY REAREND ONLY! If using a lift, disregard this step and move on to step 2.
Remove front bolts on the lower control arms. The rearend may shift slightly rearward.
Position the subframe connector over the rear control arm mount so that it is flush with the frame rail and insert the factory bolt to hold the subframe connector in place. Install the nut finger tight and repeat this step for the other side.
With the rear of both subframe connectors attached, lift the rear of the car and support with jackstands under the rear end. The car should have the suspension loaded at all four corners before any welding is performed. If using a lift, disregard this step and proceed to step 5.
Using the jack if necessary, lift the front of the subframe connector up until the front mounting plate is flush with the center of the subframe. Remove paint from the subframe and the subframe connectors at the weld points using a wire wheel or sander to get bare metal. Weld a bead around all three sides of the front mounting plate.
Prep the rear subframe and subframe connector weld points and weld into place.
Once both sides are welded, lower the vehicle to ride height and tighten the rear control arm mounts making sure that it compresses the bushing. NOTE: If a noise is present coming from the rear of the car while driving, this connection is not tight enough. This noise typically sounds like a "clunk" and occurs when driving over road irregularities. With the rear control arm reinforcements on BMR subframe connectors, it may be necessary to tighten the mounting bolts as high as 90 ft/lbs in order to compress the bushing enough to eliminate this noise.
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04-16-2006, 09:39 PM #8
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- Lost in Texas
- Age
- 42
- Posts
- 2,683
Custom Slate Blue- 99 B4C
awesome, thanks
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04-29-2006, 04:49 PM #9
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Central Michigan
- Posts
- 70
Pewter- 2000 WS6/1999 Silverado Z
I just paid $130 to have mine done
SLP Lid / Loudmouth / UMI SFC's, LCA's, and Panhard Bar / !CAGS / Short throw...I need more power!
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