http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9D8-8Q6nOk
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Might be a bent push rod...
Pull the valve covers and you will likely find whatever it is right in front of you.
Does the engine have a hard miss? Like it is not hitting on one cylinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by GNICTRY
nopeQuote:
Originally Posted by fbodynut
Unplug the the spark plug wires from the coil packs, uplug the coil main harness, 10mm bolts on the valve covers. Then 8mm bolts to remove the rocker assemblys. Now you just pull out the push rods to inspect them. It's not to bad...
If that's what it is, I might have some laying around. I will mail a couple, if I can find them !!!
thanks guys going to look hopefully tonight...car is not drivable right now-no 3 o 4 in trans...o and it has 104k and i am doing a cam soon so not sure if i should use this block o get a new one from ts
So are the ls1's know for doing that?Quote:
Originally Posted by bills98ta
I'm asking cause, I am still not real familar with these engines. :dunno:
Ya, The stock valve springs & push rods are the weak link... It's real easy to float out the valves, causing bent valves too... After I bent a few, I installed comp cam bee hive springs & magnum rods.
should i go with a new block when i install cam or will the stock bottom end stuff-bearing/pistons... be okay...fyi it had been running lean when i bought it and then i got it tuned by frost in 07...not sure if it cause any damage???
The block is most likely fine ! I ran my stock bottom w/ a big cam & a 150 dry shot for 4 years !!! That motor got me into the high 10's !
Actually, I got on ebay and bought a block & crank for a future build, "but", I popped my motor & am rushing the new build now !!! I'm hoping my old block is OK for a spare build !!!
Dang, I really need to use the spell ck. Sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by fbodynut
I guess I thought the rev limiter would keep things below the damage range.
I try not to let mine rev that high anyway. Sure could use a good excuse for new head set up though. lol
If you really want a good excuse, come on up !!! I have HP tuners, & we can set the rev limit to 9K !!! LOL !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by fbodynut
Really though, I have mine at 7400 and shift at 6800, & almost hit 7K at the finish line. I use the HP recorder to play back my passes. It's pretty cool !:D
Wow, I just noticed that every one on this thread, besides me, is from Virginia ! Any of you race Mason Dixon ???
9k and we might be talking new motor! 6 liter here we come!!
Anything above 6k makes me nervous on a street motor, Well, except for a bike maybe.
That thing must be humming crossing the line at 7k. And sounds good too, I bet !
6800, wow. Post up a clip of that.
Here's a 11.05 pass that my buddy Mark took. Hot, Humid, & a little slower day, but still consistant !!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAq5_ufBuFY
Here's a 10.77 pass on Marks SS, Which also has a stock bottom end !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTVF8Kcingo
I just found his 10.13 pass too !!! ( he's faster than me ) LOL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhAPs...eature=related
That is pretty close to the sound mine makes, but no bent pushrods or broken rockers or valve springs for me...I'm 99.9% sure it's a lifter in my case cause I've already eliminated all of the other valvetrain variables. My car used to make the sound only as rpms increased, but now it does so at all rpms and idle, and it's starting to miss a little.
Definately pull the valve covers and take a look!
okay...so diffentently valve area...i am probly going to wait to look untill i get cam so its makes it less work...
What kinda 1/4 numbers do you think she will run with the cam setup i want?
I there any way to check if the stock bottom end will hold beside useing it and seeing...lol:drivin:
great pass of you and your friend bills98ta!
what if you wait to look till you swap a cam and there is a problem? If it's a broken valve spring you could end up dropping a valve and ruin the head and whole bottom end and block. Really it takes like 15 minutes to get both valve covers off and look.
If you install a big cam, then you want to upgrade the lifters too... That means that you have to pull the heads to get to the lifters. Not like the older engines where you can just pull the intake... I did run a Z06 cam on my stock lifters before, & got into the high 11's with it ! ( didn't have to pull the heads ) That was a 550 lift + 1.8 rocker arms... I have the comp cams 571 lift + 1.8 rockers, Now I'm around a 600 lift area.
I agree, should check this out first. First time, maybe 30 min...Quote:
Originally Posted by wantedz
Us pro's, 15 min !!! LOL !!!
If one more opinion helps you make up your mind. I agree with Bills and Wanted. It's real important to find out now what is going on in there. Keep running it with that kind of noise and things could get more expensive....quick.
I know someone who ignored a similar noise in his big block chevy, and when the head of the valve came off it tore up the piston, cylinder and head! I saw it, it wasn't pretty.
i am doing the cam kit...lifters, rods, cam and springs...Quote:
Originally Posted by wantedz
I think you missed what they're saying. If a valve drops you'll be doing a new engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by GNICTRY
+1 with what orion (and pretty much everybody else) said...pull the valve covers off and you may be surprised what you'd find...For me, well I wasn't too lucky, and I have to do lifters, but check that shit first! I checked mine TWICE just because I wanted to make sure I didn't miss something!Quote:
Originally Posted by GNICTRY
It will seriously take you about 20 minutes to pull both valve covers, and it's really easy. Also, a mechanics stethascope helps pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
no i mean i am not driving it until after cam...i have no 3 0 4gear in trans...I will check it though wen night that when i am getting it towed to the shop for the trans repair...i will be ordering the cam stuff when i get my checks from the bank...hopefully this week..i sucks not being able to drive her i dont know how yall do the weekend drive shit..lol THat sound good???
I don't think you quite understand what we're trying to say...:titslap: If you are planning to do a cam anyway, well then why not do it, but if not, then eliminate all variables from the top down first. No need to do the entire cam swap if it's only a bent pushrod...unless you had planned on doin it anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by GNICTRY
If you mean you are having the shop check it out while the car is there, ok, but swapping the cam and valvetrain without troubleshooting is kinda pointless.
well i want to do a cam anyways, so is it ok to wait till then...???Quote:
Originally Posted by 01ws6er
I have had nothing but probs with her since i got here she wasnt well maintained...trans fluid took multiple flush to get pink...that was at 67k and pass cat clogg-under warranty and drive one was broken-that y i got headers, also it wasnt tuned after they put slp maf/lid on and it ran lean to a while until i bought it and 6/06 and frost tuned it in 07, and it had the wrong tb on it and now this...not to mention i need rims too cause they r rusting due to the chrome is gone...
well it is me and i dont seem to have good luck so i was just going to do cam kit to fix knock and plus i love the sound...
I just wasnt sure if i should use my stock bottom end o new and what was cause the knocking sound...
I know what you mean man, every car is gonna nickle and dime your ass, but I just love mine so much that it's worth every penny!! If you were gonna do the cam anyway, then why the hell not (that's what I'm doing while i tear off the heads to replace my lifters), but if it were me, I'd wanna know what was causing the noise for piece of mind.
It would suck if you swapped everything out and it was a rod knock, but from the vid it doesn't sound loud enough to be...just my .02
what yall think about the bottom end...everyoe i know is telling its 50 50 chance and i dont really like those odds...
Had this exact problem with my t/a, sorry 01ws6er would have posted earlier on your thread but not having the ticking at idle didn't add up, but now... I had 2 lifter failures back 2 back. I had a knock tap similar to GNICTRY and took it to my local f body shop. We tore down and I had 3 failed lifters. The pin that holds the roller on the lifter worked its way out and gouged the bottom of my lifter bore.(which was the worst of the three lifter failures the others just tore up my cam) My mechianc reassured me as well as everyone else standing around that the gouge was low in the lifter bore and would't affect oil pressure or anything else. 2 weeks later..... t tops off, beautiful day, going down the street coming up to a stop sign doing around 10 mph just holding in the clutch waiting for the stick to fall into first gear and boom as soon as it did my baby died.....went to crank it, snapped timing chain. So I tow it back to the shop. Tear down, SAME SHIT!!! different lifter!!!(plus some more headache material bent valves, piston slap,brand new custom grind comp cam tore up you know fun stuff.) Now I'm back at square one in the machine shop with a new block switching out internals (bottom end) because im low on cash and can't get a baddass ls2 or and ls9. So if you find yourself in the same pinch my friends do yourself a favor and just get a new block or at the very least get the block repaired(if you have the gouge from the lifter pin) before you start just thinking about a cam and lifter swap and going down the road. Best of luck I'll keep my eyes on this thread for awhile to see how it pans out for ya.
i wish i could do the block but as of right now i am completely tapped out...$$$ i guess ill do top end and get rid of the old lifters then save until i can switch the bottom end...i know twice the work but when your broke and dont have another car to drive not really much choose.:giveup:
well believe me man I understand the money problems, but trust me do it right. I basiclly put $1000 in the messed up block doing what your talking about and it lasted 2 weeks. Now ive been without her for 3 months!! If you gouged that lifter bore just do it. Get a block, I got my off criagslist. The best place to get a new(ls6) is TSP, great guys....ohh and there a 75% chance your cam's screwed too...(from the failed lifter) Do yourself a favor buy a little pos 4 banger to get to work and back, so your girl can have some down time so you can get stuff right and your not doing weekend repairs rushing for monday. Thank god for my toyota camry, my dick would be in the dirt.
Have you been reving it pretty hard?
nothing out of the ordinary, the motor was "built" for high rpm. But I barely ever kissed 7 grand. Found out when we tore down only half the performance mods that were supposed to be done were.(ordered the cts-v lifters this time around hopefully no more lifter issues)
^ I was talking to the original thread poster
no when i got it it had the wrong throttle body so it wouldnt shift past 4500rpm...i havent hit the rev limiter but once since i have had it but the people b4 me werent the best at taking care of it
Hey, thanks for posting this, mine has what sounds like exactly the same noise with no codes thrown. Not feeling so good after reading the reply by 98ws6zo6.
Anyway, I guess I'll try pulling the valve covers and looking at the rods as recommended.
Incidentally, I took it to a local LS1 shop and they suggested pulling the belts to make sure it wasn't an accessory. I did, and it wasn't. I think it sounded a bit louder down by the crankshaft than up top, but it's hard to say.
The good news is that this extra knocking drowns out the squeak of the idler pulley.
Matt
i no what u mean i have been able to take the valve covers off to look...i just got the trans in to make it drivable...it not as bad once oil get going...i pretty sure its the lifter/push rods...we'll see
Are you guys serious about this taking 30 minutes? Granted I'm not a top mechanic, but I've been working for like 1.5 hours just to get the driver side coil pack assembly off, and the passenger side seems like it's going to be worse. Something I'm missing? The bolt closest to the firewall is covered by some clip attached to something else I have to figure out how to remove in order to get the bolt off.
an hour and a half to take off a coil pack??Quote:
Originally Posted by matt100psi
Ahh...I see. I stupidly thought the assembly (the metal piece all the packs attach to) had to come off, and the bolt in the very back is a real jerk. Yes, it's much easier just taking off the individual packs, and I see the 8mm bolts are accessible beneath them.
How bent would a bent rod be to cause knocking? Is it something I'd clearly see?
Thanks,
Matt
Roll it on a flat surface and it should be pretty obvious if its bent. You should keep track of which goes where and put each back where it came from.
I have the same noise problem.I will admit that I hit the limiter several times(sighs).I took of my valve covers and rockers,push rods.Rolled the push rods on a glass surface and all came rolling flat.This was like 3 or 4 years ago.Ive been driving it ever since.I wouldn't recommend it,but the noise kind of goes away after the motor warms up.
I think its either a vent valve or a bad lifter.
Thanks for the feedback and advice, guys. I looked at the rods/rockers for the odd cylinders and they all looked fine. Not really wanting to go through the process on the even cylinders if I didn't have to, I got a stethoscope to hear what I could hear. It was the driver's side (the side I checked) that was worse, and worse near the valves than near the rockers. So lifters or valves seem like reasonable hypotheses. What's a "vent valve"?
If the sound went away after the engine was warm, I'd think it was a matter of some component heating up to its spec'd size. But for me, I hear the sound at idle regardless of engine temperature. I think I just don't hear it much at higher RPMs because of other engine noise.
Matt
Why didnt you check them all?Quote:
Originally Posted by matt100psi
Because despite claims that all 8 can be done in 15-30 minutes, it took me significantly longer for just the 4 I did, and the stethoscope indicated that the problem was on the driver's side.
Matt
I would check them all-I wouldnt care if it took 2 days.
If the noise you hear goes away when the engine warms up then I would say its piston slap. My car has it too.Quote:
Originally Posted by FORMULA7
I see. This is the first time I've used a stethoscope for diagnosis. In your experience, are they not generally precise enough to distinguish a noise on one side of the engine vs. the other side?Quote:
Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1
Thanks,
Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt100psi
Dude-check the other side. If you dont find anything take the car to someone who knows F bodies so they can listen to it. If you can hear the noise after the engine gets hot then something is wrong.
hey im not saying im just sayin, i'll put my bottom dollar you pull those heads and at least one or two lifters aren't gonna slide out of the bore like they should.........
Have you had this problem because I have the same damn thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98ws6zo6
reminds me of that song tick tick BOOM!
mine makes that sound at cold start but once it warms up it goes away
piston slap? is what everyone seems to say. for mine anyway.
pimp slap is way worse than piston slap IMO.
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).
Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.
Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(F and Y Cars)
1
12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)
(C/K Trucks)
1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Usage
Labor Time
J1060
Pickup Tube and Screen - Replace
F Car
3.7 hrs
- Ticking at any RPM- 2 hours on a Sunday wasted when nothing wrong was found
- Ticking at cold startup that goes away when warm- 1 hour on internet reading about piston slap
- A ticking noise that is different from others and starts after 2000-3000 miles that is the result of a torn/ripped O ring between the oil pump and oil pump screen which causes aeration of the oil- Priceless
Any advice on my engine would be greatly appreciated.
I have an 01 Z28 A4 with a basically stock engine (Except for an SLP intake).
When the engine idles you can hear a clicking noise. The clicking sound is
quiter than the youtube post by the original poster. The guy I bought the
car from a year ago said it did that the entire time he owned it. (Approx.
20,000+ miles). The price was so cheap I bought it anyways.
The car clicks at idle, But at about 20 - 25 mph you can't here it anymore.
The clicking becomes lighter when the car is moved from park to drive.
(My mechanic told me since the clicking changed when you do that
that it wasn't a rod. Definatly a releif).
Anyways I don't know a whole lot about LS1 engines. I've always worked
on carburated 350 engines from my classic impala. If I were to guess I
would say my clicking sound is somewhere in my valvetrain. Rocker,
Pushrod, or Lifter. I'm hoping it's not the cam.
I would assume that it's not piston slap since my car uses very little oil.
(If I have piston slap wouldn't I be losing a lot of oil blowby due to
damaged piston rings?)
Any feedback would be appreciated.
This tread has convinced me to take my valve cover off to see what
I can see, So that's my next move.
My car has piston slap and burns 0 oil. Piston slap is not from damaged piston rings. If you have piston slap it will go away once the engine warms up.Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU Football Fan
Same I got, you don't really hear it at higher RPMs, but it doesn't go away as the engine warms up. Well, I've checked all my rods and rockers now, and it isn't them. This weekend I'll go a-listenin' around the exhaust some more to see if maybe it's a leak somewhere there, though I don't think so.
Matt
have a mountaneer and the egr tube was leeking (exhaust) sounded exactly like a lifter.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt100psi
I have had an exhaust manifold leak and it sounded like a ticking noise.
How and where did you discover the leak and how did you fix it, did you have to put on new gaskets?Quote:
Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1
Quote:
Originally Posted by knappbunch
Where exactly ws the leaking in the egr coming from, and how did you find it?
All I had to do was tighten the exhaust manifold bolts. Just try to tighten each one and you may find a few are kinda loose. No new gasket. Easy fix.Quote:
Originally Posted by c5z28
it's a tube that runs from exhaust manifold to the intake and is a dealer only item but I had ti replace it. it had a small almost unoticable crack in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by c5z28
mine only does it cold few seconds at startup /lifter for sure
I added Rislone to my oil and that seems to have made the noise go away. It does say that it quiets noisy lifters right on the bottle.
well got cam /rod/ lifters...ect in and no more noise the rods looked straight so we are assuming it was the lifters
:cheers:
agreed:beer:Quote:
Originally Posted by bills98ta
+1 gotta love it!Quote:
Originally Posted by GNICTRY
yep, the car goes back on the dyno today ;)
:yay::woot:
i have a simular problem and are not sure what it is...it doesnt start knocking until after the car is warmed up and it is coming from the passenger side of the motor...sounds too high up to be a rod...and after it is warmed up it only really knocks around 3000 rpms or more, not at idle...so i dont think its a valve but a lifter, maybe?...and if so can i replace those without pulling the heads off?...cause if i have to pull a head i might as well put some 5.3 heads on there and get a little higher compression...
Lifters are under the heads
It sounds to me like a bent pushrod. I would pull the valve covers and check for a cracked rocker or pushrod problem. Good luck.
05 Gto bent push rod sounds - YouTube
this guy posted later on and said it was in fact a bent pushrod i think this sound identical to the OP video as well as my car now but i still drive it, no misfire codes or any problems