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A lot of people recomend a SLP lid and a K&N filter. I want to know from the people who have them. Is there a noticable gain with all that. Also I have a WS6 so is that going to be a smaller gain than what they advertise. Again I am just talking about the lid not a new induction system. Thanks.
Yes the lid will give a performance boost.
Anyone who says otherwise doesn't drive their car enough.
Lid is one of the first mods that should be done along with SFC. A lid will net you 8-10 RWHP, get whichever is the cehapest they all flow within a few ponies of each other
Now I've heard that a K&N filter in some cases is worse than a paper filter. Has any body ever heard that?
I know this is a common topic but most people just say GET ONE and never say much about their experiences with them.
Yes get a lid. The K&N is overrated, I raced at the drag strip with a new AC Delco filter, a K&N, and no filter. There was no difference in my trap speed. But the lid did get me 1 MPH, and about .1 ET.
Now that is the kind of answer I'm looking for. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Fast
Looks like a slp lid only costs 100 bucks now. I might get one.
the benefit to an aftermarket lid is because the stock one has pointless baffling inside and makes it obstruct flow. an slp, mti, or whisper lid just gives the incoming air a smoother path into the throttle, thus creating horsepower by allowing greater airflow. the reason everyone just says get one is because this subject is like beating a dead horse. there really isnt too much to debate. the lid is a proven performance mod and absolutely makes sense. so to stay in fashion....
GET ONE!:growl:
Cheaper tha $100 on EBAY, should be around $90 with free shipping last time I lookedQuote:
Originally Posted by Kup98ss
I got mine for about $80 off of ebay!!
lid is, filter isn't.
I just put my lid on ........i felt a noticeable difference......if you get the slp smooth bellows that helps as well.......it smooths out the little acoridion style intake connected to the throttle body for better air flow as well
i was wondering...rather then spending the money for a lid cant you just cut out the baffles???
I put on a lid and a cat-back but didn't feel differance at all, but my car sounds better!
The factory lid is not "baffeled", so there is nothing you can cut out to increase flow. There are resonance chambers that help quiet the intake noise which an aftermarket lid eliminates (sounds great!). What increases the flow is the elimination of the restrictive narrow oval shaped cross section between the lid and MAF that the factory lid has. An aftermarket lid has a round cross section that flows much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by e_rock1234
GET 'YER LID ON!
I have a k&n filter. I like it cause you pay 70 bucks, and you never have to buy another one. You just pull it out and rinse it off. There is a bit of a performance boost supposedly, but it's not really noticeable I don't think.
I've heard some BS like taking the baffles out of the stocker lid...my crazy cousin even cut out the top of his lid(?). Pick how you want your lid to look, clear, carbon fiber, or black(black can be painted to anything) and go from there. I'd do a lid, but SFC are next for me.
im going to buy a factory ram air instead of my t/a induciton will that help i allready have ram air hood
also instead of the lid i have a filter above a filter is that better or worse
are you talking about a raised air lid/box??? and what is this filter above a filter???
All you really need to upgrade is the lid (SLP, MTI, WHISPER, etc) with your choice of filter. The other stuff is just throwing money away. IMO.
If you put a lid and cat back on and didnt feel a difference then you just dont know waht your car felt like before they were on. Or you got parts from korea.
Most of the time people claim that their car feels "faster" it's all in their head. And it's not like 10hp is going to make that big of a differance anyway.
But you can feel it if you drive your car enough to know exactly how it feels, and exhaust and a lid is like what 15rwhp you can feel that and dont tell me you cant cause i did.
You can't feel it!! Now what? I never said you personally did or did not feel anything, I'm just saying that I didn't.
I even felt more power when i put a cold air intake and throttle body spacer on my GMC Jimmy lol.
i did a lid bellow and free ramair to my car today in i relly feel it
I did gain 30rwhp with the addition of the SLP lid, Hooker Catback and TB bypass so I think the lid is worth doing. As for filters, I did several dyno pulls comparing no filter and a new Fran paper filter and the results showed no difference. I don't think the K&N would flow any better than no filter at all so I'll stick with the paper.
Not quite Useless. You see, there's us (the enthusiasts) who'll sit on a milk crate and rip everything out of the car to make it a little bit faster, and there's normal drivers who might want just a 'quick car'. there are more of those people and GM had to appeal to the majority. the baffles are to make it quieter as air whirls through it. this lowers performance but it keeps teenage girls from going 'daddy, the car's broke. it's making a funny noise'. If you're on this site, you want a aftermarket lid. it's for power. It's not going to make your car outrun everything, but it helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by secondgearscratch
Anyone go for that smooth bellow crap? $65? Kinda steep isn't it?
I did that too the other day! where did you find your info to do it? I kinda followed installuniversity. how much of the shroud did you cut off? I just took a little bit. I wonder if you can rip that cover out completely? Definitely want to make sure your filter's on tight though!Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.5.7
i had the guys at MTI do it for me they are in houstonQuote:
Originally Posted by sharptransam
he cut both trays i think took my lid off in now i cant git it back on right well if you try it off let us know how it gose
What is a SFC?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley711
SFC= sub frame connectors, they bolt or weld onto the bottom or your car, stiffen the frame, get power to the ground better and if you have T-Tops make them rattle less.
should be more than 15 shouldent it?
15-17hp at flywheelQuote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw40
8-10 rwhp.
Or so I have heard.
ok, thanks, i was hoping for more, i was gonna buy the SLP or Volant box and Magnaflow cat back, was hoping for 20-25 from both combined, o well i guess i'll just have to do the NOS EFI kit as well:thumbup:
hi, i have a question.
I want to have a little bit more power for my Trans Am
do these parts make sense in an 1998 Trans Am LS1. I give different chices and you tell me which is the best.
1.) 2 Parts
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
2.) 1 Part
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
which should I buy? or is the second just a combination of the first?
THX
If you over oil the K & N and oil/dust build up on the maF the paper filtered car will beat it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kup98ss
Just lightly oil your MaF and clean the wires with electrical contact cleaner every so often and you'll be in good shape.
Upgrade to a Vette Filter and get a larger filter so it stays cleaner longer too. Add FTRA and seal it, screen it and your set.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...d/DSC04390.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...d/DSC00903.jpg
:devil:
You can got to LOWE's and get basically the same thing for $5. I bought the smooth bellow back a few years back and it cost $28 :sillyme:Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptransam
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...d/DSC00115.jpg
Speaking of Volant, does anyone have this or heard any feedback? I was debating over the SLP and the Volant intake. I kinda like the look to it and it seems like it would draw in more air than the SLP lid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw40
FYI-pacesetters are going in next week :nana:
i like the look of it, but dont know if $300 is worth it, if someone could show me that it made like another 5 or more horsepower then i would buy it. they say it works better on ram air cars because the two air intakes are right at the openings, but i have the formula so i'm not too sure if it's any better than a SPL lid
Exactlly... $300 is pretty pricey, comapred to the SLP intake kit. But if it prodcues better reponse and more HP, I'll put down the extra $$ to get that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw40
I wonder if the free ram-air mod would work on that?
quite possibly, but i cant be sure, if anyone has tried this pleas post here
Think about it since its not sealed at the slot where you cut plastic out the the air coming through just hits the bottom of the filter and doesnt go through a sealed air box so the free ram air mod is kinda void in that setup.
yea, it seems like someone wasn't thinking when they designed it, i don't have ram air so i cant say one way or another. if you think about it, it should increase airflow so I'd imagine you'd see some power gain
Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw40
I did the free ram air mod recently. And people will say it's pointless and it's not a noticeable difference, but I'm telling you, as for my car, it's noticeable. I could tell the first time I started her up that she was breathing better. Cam Roll is more noticeable. And the first drive felt like it did when I test drove her, threw me into my seat harder than usual. Let me know if you would like pictures of what I did.
:Pics: please....Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike's TA
+1 everyone's car is different, but if you haven't done it then you'll never know, and your speculation equals crap. If you've done it and did not see gains, I'm sorry but please don't tell me about 'my' car's reaction to it. I've noticed it idles smoother. I've also noticed throttle response is better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike's TA
Hi just a little question.
which one should i buy?
or ist number 2 just a combination od number 1
number 1:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
number 2:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
can you tell me which one is better.
thanks
Looks like they are all 3 different items. You will get the most benefit from the lid and cold air kit. The mass airflow won't do much if anything to a stock engine. You have a stock TA, right, not a WS6? If you had a WS6/WS6 style hood and raised airbox to mate with the hood, all you need then is the lid.
you're right i have the normal trans am nopt the ws6
OK Here are the pics. They were an after thought so I layed the parts I cut off on there so you get an idea. The screwdriver is there to show how little the gap already there is, so I removed some excess. Sorry if they are blurry.
I also opened up the front a little bit. Don't know if it helped much, but I figured, Why the hell not?!
Oh, and all these pictures were taken by my Cell Phone. Actually a Pocket PC. I'm not steady with it, that's why they're a little blurry. It's the Cingular 8125. It can take up to 7000 pictures with the 2gb expansion card. Sorry, had to brag a lil.
:hellno:Man those pictures SUCK! So blurry! Actually, j/k, they will help this thread. LOL, had to nail you because you were already apologizing for the photo quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike's TA
Seems like every one does the ram-air mod and has good reviews. I am going to try it this weekend. I have to work on my stereo this weekend, so maybe I might not get to it. But looks good. It's free, so why not. I am waiting a couple of months before I get the Volant intake. I've spent so much $$ this month.
Thanks for the pics!
I hadn't thought of cutting the front of the box like that, not a bad idea I'll have to look at mine and see if I'll do the same later.
I did the front because the K&N is so thin. When you're looking at it, be sure to have your filter on there to see if you can take any off, and how much. Be conservative, the lid has to have a sturdy clamping area. Unless you want to wrap the thing in duck tape. :bomb:Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptransam
looks good, do you think i'll notice a differance with a formula hood?
You should.Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw40
I have a k&n also. Always liked those filters.
only experience with K&N is on our boat motors, no problems with them, see to be a good product
Only thing about the K&N is, make sure they're not over oiled from the factory. My engine started throwing codes and it took the mechanic forever to figure out it was the MAF. Pain in the :moon: Go figure.
Okay guys I am so confused with this cold air induction thing...I have a 01 WS6 M6, with the aluminum driveshaft and 3:42 gears and I got my car completely stock at 100,000 mi, my airbox doesnt look like that at all....and from the other sites I have read on, the true WS6 for my year with the ram air is a cold air induction system....Ive heard the cold air induction systems couldnt be used on my car, because it already has the same thing from the factory....my stock box has a openening right in bottom/front, and goes up into the filter....my ram air goes in through the grates in front,hits a baffle that directs it down, then back straight into that opening in my air box...I bought a SLP lid since it has no baffles and a MAC high flow filter....so why does that picture of that WS6 look like a different airbox?...and can you get a cold air induction kit for a 01 WS6?....how much colder can it get?...from the factory its just a straight shot in....Quote:
Originally Posted by 1TA LS1
what is SFC?
WOW, Way to revive a very old thread!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by getcha01
Anyways, Lets see some pics and we'll be able to tell you what's up.
SFC = Sub Frame ConnectorsQuote:
Originally Posted by Rich Gershman
You guys were talking about the violent CA kit a while back. I have heard they do flow a bit better than the lid style. Might add about 5 flywheel ponies. I personally have the SLP CAI and when I purchased it I was concerned about water getting in the filter when it was raining. Since I do have the RA hood. They do look neat though :giveup:
I'll have my girlfriend post pics of it on here, I dont know how to do all that crap.....I called jegs to order that CAI when I first got my car and he took my year make,model ect......and asked me if it was a real ram air and I said yes, and he said they dont make cold air kits for mine, that mine is already factory cold air.....it looks like from the pics I seen of that cutout mod photo, that my airlid and everything is just about 3 inches higher....my lid sits about 4 or 5 inches higher than my intake even does...I was told its never been modded, carfact report showed just 2 owners b4 I got it, and it has 112,000mi, and it went 13.14 my first run 3 weeks ago in it, I couldnt believe it......it had stock everything on it still, not even catback or new tips or anything...I put SLP lid and mac filter, msd wires, and hooker muffler and thats what it ran on first pass, then my tranny messed up and its not even drivable nowQuote:
Originally Posted by Mike's TA
Well, if you're referring to the pics that I posted, those aren't from a WS6 "ram air" TA. It's from just a regular TA. That's why the opening is smaller than yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by getcha01
The CAI kit that is made for these vehicles will work on both the non WS6 and WS6 models. The area that it gets installed is exactly the same between the two.
One mod that you can do is to remove the baffles in your hood to allow better ariflow. There are rightups on this site, just do a search for it. You could also do the "free ram air" mod if you want to. I've read many owners with WS6 TA's state that is does make a difference.
Yea I know about the free ram air and the baffle in the hood and all, but I just thought that old thread was saying there is a different cold air system or something I can get for my car, I dont want to take the baffle out though, I was reading in a gm high tech magazine about that, and the baffle actually makes the air force in harder somehow, gm put it there to get the air in faster, most people think its there to stop water and stuff, but I read they added it to force it in faster, the air hits it,and goes up and then back down into the filter at a faster rate, than if there was no baffle.....I dont think I will mess with it, how do the SS have factory ram air?....I didnt think their hoods were functional, and isnt the ram air the only reason the WS6 and SS have 15 more hp over the z28 and the t/a or is it from the LS6 intake?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike's TA
I just figured I would point one thing out while this thread is back... I did things backwards on my car as far as modding goes... mostly because I ran into a deal with exhaust and no intake.
Anyways, I did LT's ORY Cat-Back first and no intake mods... I went for some tuning and my car was running completely short of air... by 5000rpms my car was starving... just lets you know how restrictive stock air induction is!
In anycase I checked out my lid and filter I started collapsing my paper filter from the negative pressure, to anyone that thinks that a K&N filter doesn't flow much better then an equivelant sized paper you have to pull your head out of your ass :lol:... I still have the filter to prove it
i did the free ram air mod about a month ago and ive noticed it does have slightly better throttle response and also runs cooler(temp wise). before i did it my needle on my temp gauge was just a hair under 210 at all times and would fluxuate higher if stopped at a light/stop sign w/windows up and A/C on full blast. now ive noticed there is actually some "black" between my needle and the "210" mark on my temp gauge and also it has yet to rise(fluctuate) hotter, even with windows up and A/C on full blast.
btw-as far as intake mods i have VERY minimal. minimal being k and n filter and STOCK lid.
I have a question that has been bothering me for a few weeks....what is an ORY?...I dont see anything in magazines about ory's anywhere, I know the Y is for Y pipe but what is the OR for?...I always thought it would be like aftermarket Y pipe or AYP lol..........
ORY- Off Road Y-Pipe
for the OP, getting the Lid and filter done first is a great idea, then go ahead and do the free mods. I went straight to autozone after i bought my car and bought a K&N filter so i can't really tell you if they make a difference or not. But i can tell you that it's the last filter i'll have to buy for that car for a long time. Not to long ago i installed a lid and the SSRA kit and noticed the gains. So if you're looking to get the air in smoother, colder, and faster, then i'de recommend the filter, lid, and either the FTRA or the SSRA kits.
ORY = Off Road Y-pipe- no catalytic converters, not emission compliant-
2 Questions..
The lid i have now came with the car, i got the full slp package.. it says SLP in the middle and on the bottom right corner ''Blackwing'' And is this the type lid that sucks? I have a k&n filter.Or do i not need the one that is 100 bucks.
On the lids you can buy, you can get the 98-00 that doesnt have a smog hose connter, and i hav e a 02 ss, and it does have 1. Now that isnt a problem, bc i can put a filter on the end of the hose. And they sell the 01-02 lids. That have the hose spot. Will the one that doesnt need a hose still fit?
Thanks
yea I just got the car about 2 months ago and it was all stock factory ram air with hurst shifter and 6 speed...I put a filter and slp lid on right away, then I had a hooker muffler installed in place of the stock one, then I put MSD spark plug wires on....I ran 13.08 on my first pass at the track, then my tranny started not going into 3rd so I never got a good run after that...im shipping the tranny out soon to be rebuilt and im putting a goood clutch in....I have to get emmisions done but I am putting headers on while tranny is out and I would really like to get a ORY but I either need cats on it still to pass emmisions, or I heard I can not run cats and have my back 02 sensors deleted by tuning and I woud be okayQuote:
Originally Posted by robcas47
what about getting the volant over the lid?
omg this is an old thread.
haha my bad, i didnt even know.