Printable View
I went to start my car this morning i push the clutch down turn the key and nothing happens the i thought it was the it jist wasbt recognizing the clutch was down so i by passed the switch and still nothing ....we tried to push start it acts like its goin to run for a second then dies and did the same being pulled by a truck
I noticed the security light is staying on could the alarm keep it from starting and what would cause this
It's my daily so any advice i would really appreciate!!!!
Also i tried unplugging the battery and still nothing
Vats needs to be bypassed is what it sounds like to me.
Here's the write up: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/
You're ignition cylinder could be out too.
+1 Sounds like VATS to me. If you have a spare ignition key, you can try that.
Yeah i just did a search on it and everyone says VATS .....could my kwy be bad also?
I only have 1 set :(
Yes it could be. Most Keymakers have them too.
99% chance its still the ignition cylinder internals though.
Jeff did this helpful write as well: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/vats-di...stance-164731/
So vat bypass,ignition cylinder, or key are most likely my problem ....if my key is bad does that mean it will show tge wrong ohm reading?
Yes, it could.Quote:
Originally Posted by unibuga
So if my key is messed up can a locksmith still figure out what ohm a new key would need to be?
He could try the 1 that is alittle higher resistance or just a little bit lower in resistance.Quote:
Originally Posted by unibuga
But it still could need the bypass.
Chances are slim that the resistor itself is bad, although anything is possible. Look at the metal tabs on the side of the chip. They should stick out on each side of the key. If they are worn down it may simply be a contact issue in the ignition cylinder. Again, a VATS bypass is your best fix irrespective of whether it is the key or the cylinder at fault.
Im gonna bypass it tomorrow ....bypassed it should still work even if my key is messed up right?
Correct.
Courtesyvof Jeff's thread, here's the resistor ratings:
1=392 ohms 2=523 3=681 4=887 5=1130 6=1470 7=1870 8=2370 9=3010 10=3740 11=4750 12=6040 13=7500 14=9530 15=11800
So if your ohm meter reading 1300 I would try a number 5 or number 6.
Badass lol....i also have another question. I think my oil pump may be going out at idle im usually at 40 psi but lately it will fluctuate between 30 and 40 i went ahead and changed my oil but still having tge same problem ....when tge pressure drops the car heats up by 5 degrees ....my water and oil levels are good any ideas?
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMdef9
Unfortunately, I can't take credit for that info as it was copied and pasted from another VATS thread. :lol:
You could try replacing the oil presure sending unit, and see if anything changes, but as a general rule with these cars the factory guage can't be trusted for accuracy.
If you think there is a real oil pressure issue, you could try adding a fitting after the factory sending unit and checking the true presure with a mechanical or electric after market guage.
The Sunpro mechanical guage comes with the fittings in the guage kit and it's cheap depending on your means. Should give you a more accurate reading.
Is the car acting up, making odd sounds, anything different in how it runs since you've noticed the guage being strange?
When the pressure is down the runs a little bit sluggish
Hmm, that's not good, is your service engine soon light on? WHat's your mileage?Quote:
Originally Posted by unibuga
No lights on i just rolled to 159,000 :/ no ticking or anything
Okay, well, you could be starting to get signs of your oil pump weakening, I'd try the after market guage or a new sending unit to be sure first.Quote:
Originally Posted by unibuga
The ladder involves digging into the engine if the pump is truely dieing..
Well bypass got er runnin ....now to look into to the oil pump ....what should i do for an upgraded one?