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so i put a new slave in my t.a. got it all back in there i figured i would have to bleed the hydraulics but i pushed the pedal anyway and it popped right to the floor and only came back about a inch. u have to pull it back to get it to pop back up just like it did going down i tried bleeding it with a friend in the car to push the clutch in and out while i opened the bleeder we did it about 20 time and made no difference idk what to do can any one help me to find an easy way to get her done?
Did u add brake fluid...?
There's a sticky for that
How to bleed a clutch
yeah i kept it full the whlole time
yeah i read all that but i have no mity vac and i have to have it done and out of there today
I have the mity vac, but I still prefer to bleed the clutch differently.
I first remove the clutch hydraulic line from the trans. It doesn't leak fluid unless it's depressed with a small screw driver.
I'll depress it and let it gravity drip into a container. Replenish the reservoir as necessary. It only takes a couple of quick attempts. This will guarantee all of the air is removed from this half of the system (from the line on up through the cars master cylinder)
Simply plug the line back in. From here the only air left in the system would be the slave inside the bell housing, which will be a very small amount of air. All you have to do at this point is pump the clutch a few times and crack the bleeder for a second. You can also use your mity vac at this point and keep this operation to one person.
From all the times I've done this it only takes a couple of times and you're done. Very simple, takes about 5 minutes.
It's difficult to bleed the system from the start without removing that line as I described above. Trying to pump the pedal will result in what you are experiencing with a stuck pedal on the floor.
My method eliminates that hassle, and you'll have some pedal effort right away just from the line trick I mentioned, makes it very easy to pump and remove the remaining air from the slave at that point.
when u say to depress it do u mean the thing in the slave or in the line it self
Go buy a mityvac and have it done in 30 seconds.
He is talking about the line from the master. It has a stopper similar to an air valve in a tire. You have to press and hold it in with a small screw driver to let the fluid come out.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey gavin
ok cool dont sound bad
Yep, piece of cake. Even if you have a mity vac, I'd still recommend this procedure first, it removes most of the air before you even start the bleeding process.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcar
After that it's just a few pumps of the pedal and crack the bleeder if you have a helper. Twice doing that should be enough, and you don't even get the mity vac dirty :thumbup:
idk if i get what u mean about bleeding the line. the fluid runs out and then it starts to drip but once i close it and open itback up it has a stream again if i keep holding it open it starts to drip again.. so what i did was open it a few times just long enough so it wouldnt drip and closed it then i put the line back in had my friend go to pump it and i bleed it, it was the same thing as last time the pedal stuck to the floor
Are you filling the right reservoir? I have a seperate reservoir for the clutch fluid. It's smaller and right next to/behind the master.
yes sr.
I never tried it without the mity vac. You can't loan it out from a supply store like Napa or whatever? It is so easy it should be a crime. You gotta have one. I just flushed and bled my brakes a few weeks ago. Peice of cake.
idk if they will i would see but theyre closed
I've never known any of the stores to loan them out. They cost about ~$50 give or take if my memory serves.
I do like to use it for brakes since there is alot of bleeding to do in that respect.
thats just it 50 is a lot for that
Yes it is, and for as simple as it is to bleed the clutch it's not worth the investment.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey gavin
Now if you owned several cars and bled brakes or flushed brake systems a few times a year then it's worthwhile to have the kit.
I have seen them on sale from time to time if you keep an eye out.
50$,? the loaner macpherson strut tool from NAPA is ~100.
I just checked ebay, and third item was exactly what you need for 32.50 w 8 shipping. And you can use it to flush your clutch fluid every few months.
yeah and i dont... well does that make scents, about that line letting it run then it starts to drip?
well, I'm gonna bow out of this one as I have no idea how to bleed it manually. Unless you live close to PHX, I can't help. Good luck bud.
I guess you've figured out how to remove the line and push in the valve to let it drain.
Just a little at a time and you'll have to replenish the tiny reservoir. It doesn't hold much and it will empty fast.
Doing this a couple times should be enough. If you let the reservoir get too low, it will just reintroduce more air into the system.
After that just plug the line back in. From there pump the pedal a few times, hold the pedal down, crack the bleeder for a second, close it back up, then release the pedal. Check fluid level.
After 3-4 times of this it should be ready to go.
well thats just it, it doesnt empty the resivor very fast like i said it comes out it a stream then after like 10 seconds it starts dripping instead of running out. if i let it sit for a bit then its like it builds pressure back up then it streams out then drips. it dont make scents.. and u think once i get that pluged back in the pedal should have some pressure?
It does sound like it's slow to come out for you. If you have had to replenish the reservoir at least a couple of times, I'd say you have removed the air from that part of the system, it's not that big. The last time I did this I installed a new master, and just cracked the line open. It took a minute before fluid started coming out. That was good enough as the fluid pushed the air out and I was done.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey gavin
I've always had some pedal after this procedure, and the pedal would at least return halfway. From there I just pumped and bled a few times.
Was there a reason the system was cracked open? I can't go back and look at your first post while I'm in here typing. I can't remember what started all this or if you had to replace anything,,,,old timers disease :D
Okay, now that I posted I went back and looked.
Appears you dropped the tranny to replace only the slave cylinder??
In which case the line trick I mentioned wouldn't be necessary since the rest of the system from the line on back wasn't disturbed.
lol i hear ya.. it was cause i put a new slave in and the first time i did the clutch the pedal never felt right thats y i got a new slave
so what do i do to get pressure to the pedal
You are going to have to pump the pedal, pull it back up with your foot, and do that a few times, hold it down, crack the bleeder and then close it.
That slave being new is bone dry. You could also try cracking the bleeder open and letting it sit to gravity bleed and watch the reservoir, the level should drop as it fills the slave before it even begins to drip out the bleeder.
In a situation like this, it would be easier with a mity vac. Where are you located?
ok im in wisconsin.. so after i pump it a few times hold it and crack the bleeder then let it run while holding the pedal?
got it! thanks man really thank you for your time
Yep. Once you crack the bleeder open, only about a second or so and you'll want to close it again before you let the pedal back up.
op how are things going?
What was the reason you replaced the slave? Didn't you say the pedal didn't feel right? When my pedal wouldn't return it was my master not my slave. Don't know if this is your prob or you still have air :dunno:
idk it still feels soft like it did before i changed it maybe a lil bit better i think its all bleed out