what HP will a 150 wet shot get you at the rear tires? and the same for a 200 shot
im new to spray :devil:
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what HP will a 150 wet shot get you at the rear tires? and the same for a 200 shot
im new to spray :devil:
is this going on the 408?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
yessir....starting with that then going to 250 shot BUT i would like an idea what these shot bring at the wheelsQuote:
Originally Posted by jiveass
In general, you can take 15-20% off of flywheel HP numbers to find what they would be at the wheels... but, understand there are a ton of variables in play.
First, there are differences between manufacturer's "shots"... Second is drivetrain losses are gonna be different from car to car... then there are differences because of engine differences (i.e. different cams/heads will give you different results on the jug).
So, as you can see, there are too many variables to nail it down very accurately. Only one way to find out...:burnout:
what kit do you recommend??Quote:
Originally Posted by LSXZ28
goal is 700rwhp sooo the 408 alone will be 500-525rwhp, my last dyno was 500 without spray/ the giant cam/ fuel setup and couple other things BUT that was not a final tune, still needed some more work
(i have....408, AFR 225 heads, tx giant cam, FAST intake, full exhaust, M6, high flow rails, 42 injectors, SD tune and all the other BS)
Well, I'm not a big fan of spraying a bunch of nitrous on a stock type intake unless you have a direct port... When I wanted to go above a 150 shot, I went to a Vic Jr and a carb plate type nitrous setup (ZEX perimiter plate), along with an elbow and 90mm TB. I would go direct port or plate... Nitro Dave's plate for the FAST intake is one to look into if you want to stay with that intake, but not go direct port...
Might wanna check this out...
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/nitrou...ce-plates.html
thats a nice setup.....but dam thats a shit load of money :faint:Quote:
Originally Posted by LSXZ28
In thatlink on the more expensive one what does it come with intake and all or what
you have to go to tech and ask themQuote:
Originally Posted by Ace_746
Uhmm... no... That intake alone is like $900! That is the complete nitrous system. The cheaper one is the plate only...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace_746
Thanks for the replies helped alot and is changing the intake a good mod to do or what is im gonna do nitrous and a tune just dont know if the intake is worth the money it would look good though
On my 408 i had a direct port 200 shot with 116 fuel got approx 150hp on the dyno
Have not used nitrous so i dont want to go real big whats a good start for a stocker
75-100 for safe....150 if you want to test how long your engine will last lol....some poeple may disagree BUT i rather be safe then sorry :yup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace_746
Is there any kit that anyone cld recommend for reliability and consistency
is your car 100% stock?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace_746
Nitrous Outlet plate systems are good ones...
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=14§ion=37
Yes it is 100% stock fixin to gt a granelli maf sensor but i found one pretty cheap someone is sellin me
why you swap the MAF?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace_746
i would do full bolt on's before i get the spray
Wasting $$ on that MAF....go and spray away with the stock unit. I would have to disagree with going full bolt on before. You would be hard pressed to even buy headers and tune for the cost of nitrous. No way headers or any other bolt on are gonna net equivalent in hp/$ either.
:welder:BOOOOM..:lmao::hitfan::giveup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
he has a 100% shock car. hes going to need a tune either way, why take the chance on blowing the engine WHEN he might be happy with a full bolt on car first BUT to each there ownQuote:
Originally Posted by '02 WS6
not on my built 408 :yup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Not on a 10-bolt either..:lol: Why not spool it?:seesaw:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
engine is built for spray....was going to built the engine for a procharger BUT now im switch it...i know stupid move BUT it be goodzzzz...this good>>:canada:Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
:lmao:
I gotcha bro.. You know I jus had to mention it..:chuckles: Sounds like you're looking for 8-9's.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
no no 8s.....yes high 9s :drivin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Oh and hey Dom! I'd love the color numbers on that blue you used on that monster.. Love that tone!! Looks like my engine but that's heat paint..
:usa: :werd::yourock:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
same color on the vipers...call dodge they should have the code or a paint shopQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
it makes babys cry in the sunlight...has alot of flake and at the right angle it sometimes changes to a purple-ish blue
Well duh I forgot you said viper b4..:sillyme::canada:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
aftermarket maf alone will need a tune more than a stock car looking for some extra power. not worth the money just to change a maf and run properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace_746
What is the best things to start off with i have heard an intake dont make a big diff and supposable it comes with stock headders but i think they r still stock
lid, p&p tb/ls6 intake, full exhaust, gears (A4-373. M6-410), if A4 a stall, if M6 a short throw, good set of harden push rods...and a mail order tune from frost...then if you want more i would go to a some spray or camQuote:
Originally Posted by Ace_746
that just the way i would do it, its safer that way....
now depending on if your going to do head/cam i would go with a FAST intake...for the mods listed the ls6 will work fine
what do you mean "stock headers"??
Thats what i said too the guy i got it from said it had stock hedders because its an ss but not real bright i dont think and what do u consider a lid mine has ram air what makes the difference and wld a bigger tb work better than p&p srry for all the questions
there are lids.... http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...Path=235_89_65 ...they get rid of all that crap from the factory, thats infront of MAF
if you want a bigger tb i would get a FAST 90/90 setup, they going cheap nowadays
no SS (that i know of) came with headers from the factory...might want to post some pics so we can see for sure
TSP is selling 1 7/8 coated headers for $499
Not sure anyone ever answered your original question or not but i can supply you with the numbers I get from my HSW system:
50 shot = 44rwhp gain
75 shot = 67rwhp gain
100 shot = 89rwhp gain
150 shot = 131rwhp gain
200 shot = 174rwhp gain
250 shot = 218rwhp gain
These were all performed on a dynojet while I still lived in Pa and had the car at the shop for two weeks setting the system up.
I'm sure each system will vary though.
VERY NICE! thank you....200shot should get the job done nicely hehehe...BTW can you link me to the kit you had?Quote:
Originally Posted by kevnstac
thanks again
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
I bought the complete system here and had it professionally installed.
They claim the jetting is what you'll see at the wheels, but I beg to argue that fact....
I purchased larger jets as the need for speed grew and my NOS addiction was out of control. I can honestly say, I've run NOS for over 45,000 miles and have lost only 2 intakes to date, and that was when I was being an ass and decided I didn't need professional tuning or controllers to operate it.
I grew up since then....maybe
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/home.php?cat=136
hahahaha nice.....what intake where you running when they broke?Quote:
Originally Posted by kevnstac
Still had the stock intake at that time, replaced it and busted a hole about the size of my fist in it about 2 runs later. I had just hit 5th gear and boom....
I was racing a Porsche 911 Turbo at the time and was about to run over his ass when all hell broke loose.
I then sent the car to the speed shop and said, ok guys can you make this right? I invested quite a bit of $$$ and I'm haooy with what I have now. I keep playing with this car and my Mustang. When I make one faster, I work on the other LOL
hmmmm wonder how my FAST intake will hold up against a 200shot......:devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by kevnstac
burst panels???Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
dam good idea...didnt even think of thoseQuote:
Originally Posted by 00z28bubba
has anyone done this and how did it work out??
i was hoping you had them and could explain a bit about them lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
hahaha....no i dont....im still getting everything else ready for when the spray comes hahaha but thanks for that idea :bravo:Quote:
Originally Posted by 00z28bubba
hope someone has them done and can post up
they will eventually. i just hope its quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
well similar build that i had. i had a NX direct port with their intake. set it up for 250 and got 225 rwhp. had 440 rwhp on motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
im over 500rwhp on motor now with 10:1 CR/ baby cam/ starter SD tune/ stock fuel system/ ypipe exhaustQuote:
Originally Posted by mrr23
i dont want more then a 200shot...how hard is it to install the direct port system in the manifold??
I thought FAST intakes were not FI friendly.
Nitrous is not FI...Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
have you ever used those burst panels???Quote:
Originally Posted by LSXZ28
No, never bothered - if you're doin everything right, you should never have a nitrous backfire... I've sprayed hundreds of bottles without a single backfire...Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
depends on what you are using. hard lines can take a solid day to map out, bend, put ends, drilll holes into intake for nozzles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
nos plate, 150hp, is a 150hp at the wheel;;;; :dance:
an is safe with a good fuel pump,like a 255 walbo.. ngk #6 plugs...
an a good tune,, use as many bottle as you want, an be ''safe;; warrior,s...
From recent information I gathered, I would go with a Racetronix fuel pump over Walbro. You have to do modifications with the Walbro. Racetronix is plug-and-play.