correct....the light should stay off.Quote:
Originally Posted by 9T8W66
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correct....the light should stay off.Quote:
Originally Posted by 9T8W66
Been doing this crap for years and it finally left me stranded at a gas station 3 blocks away. I did the 3 min cycle about 8 times with no luck. Walked home came back 2 hrs later and it started right up got it home and finally decided to do this mod. but the light didn't go out. So looks like I'll be doing it the way you did by cutting the white wires back and soldering the resistors in place then plugging it back in.
Car started anyway even though the Security light was on and the connector was unplugged.
I'll be redoing it tomorrow so keep your fingers crossed
I would like to see what the different levels of vats are because there's not just a pass/fail. I mean there is a pass/fail but there's also at least one other step in there where it will let the car start but keep the light on. Try this....put your key in and check the resistance at the plug down there and see what you get and if it's the same as just the key by itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by 9T8W66
Also, make sure you use gold band resistors and get it as close to that median number as possible so that you stay in range with the natural variance of the resistor.
I used Gold band 5% resistors and had to piggyback 4 in series 2 1000's 1 270 and a 100 to equal out to the 2370. I even double checked the resistence after they were put together and it came out the same. soldered it all up, plugged it in and the light is still on.:denied:
I believe it's stuck in the start loop like you were talking about before. (this is the way it was for quite some time) When it acted up on me yesterday it must of reverted back to the Pass/Fail mode and continued to fail repeatedly.
I'm thinking that the light will eventually go off when the system tries to revert again because the bypass is in place.
Anyway it 's starts fine now so I'm not worried.
I know this is a really old thread, but I'm unsure where I need to solder the resistors.
at the bottom of the column there are white wires that has the orange shield around it. Those plug into 2 other wires that are prpl/wht and wht/blk. What I did was cut the 2 white wires about an inch before that plug and soldered my resistor across those then plugged it back in. You want the resistors to be read by the bcm so the wires coming out of the column just get cut and zip tied up out of the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by xKellyxVeitx
Probably the best diagram I've seen for the Bypass
http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg
Is this the vats connector, or is this the air bag wires??
Hi so I did the vats bypass on my 98' Aurora I thought it worked but a day later im still having the security light come on, and my air bag light is on. Maybe I put the resistors on the air bag connector? Besides the color of the wires being different (the normal two white wires/and purple) and mine had a white and a green wire sleeved in yellow tubing, and on the other side of the connector was green and white again. These are the only wires with a connector under my dash that I think could possibly be the vats connector, also I tried disconnecting the connector and taking out the resistors and the car still started, so this means this wanst the vats wire I was looking at?
-Thanks Alex
yellow sleeved wires are for the airbags. The green and white wires also give it away.
on your Aurora, you need to find the big rectangular connector that has like 48 wires in it. On one side of the connector should be the 2 white wires in the orange sleeve and the other side should have the white wire w/ black stripe and next it a purple wire with a white stripe.
Thanks for all the info. I ended up using key pellet 11. My key was reading out at 4.76 K at a 200K ohm reading. I used the 4.7K 5% variance resistor from radio shack ($.99). The measured 4.60 K but fell within range for the BCM. Thanks again! I used a single resistor one end spliced into each wire and the blue 16 gauge butt connectors with a single zip tie and electrical tape. Looks clean and the new column with different cylinder work great!
i have a 89 camaro, that reads 882. dose that mean i will need number 4 key? cuz it read on my key 882 but that close;s one to that one its a 887.. well anything will help.. thanks
will this work with a 89 camaro or is it just for newer camaro?
I'm not sure what they used on the 3rd gens. It has the pellet in the key then? If so I would think it's a similar set up.
Thank you so so so so much. You really saved my arse and my pockets yesterday. Great writeup. Thanks.
Looking into the Radio Shack resistors. They have both 1/8 watt teeny tiny ones and 1/4 watt slightly bigger ones.
Do I need 1/2 watt resistors or will 1/4 watt do?
(Sorry but know diddly squat about electrical stuff)
1/4 watt should be fine. I think thats what I usually use
it really depends on what key pellet you have but the short answer is if you want to be safe go with the 1/2watt. The quarter watt will work on the majority but I'll give you an example using the lowest pellet resistance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soloontario
ohms law is P=I*V which is power=current*voltage
you have to solve for current first which is I=V/R
lowest pellet resistance possible is 386ohms
12v/386ohms=.03amps
.03amps*12volts=.37 watts so P=.37 which is a little over a quarter watt.
My car used to have a very intermittant issue with the security light/failure to start issue. Wait 3 min for the light to go out and it would start again. Same with both keys.
Keys ohmed out to 4750 so got the 1/4 watt resister and finally put it in. Checked the resistance across the white wires with the key in place and got 4760.
Car started easily but after 5 minutes of driving the security light came on (it had never stayed on in the past). Turned around and came home to test again. Car restarts immediately with either key as well as after a number of minutes. OTOH the security light now stays on !!
Is there something else triggering this? The no start condition has gone but I'm getting really neurotic looking at the light.
not sure how you wired it in but the resistor goes on the module side so it doesn't matter what your key says anymore because it should be out of the loop. What I did was cut those wires on the column side of the plug. Solder the resistors across those wires and plugged it back in.
What band did your resistors have? Need gold band resistors and get them as close too that 4750 as possible....might have to use a combination of a couple resistors to get it. Sounds like you may either be drifting out of range or you have it wired incorrectly.
I didn't cut the orange wrap wires but pushed the resister into the back of the purple and white conector. They are just taped in place like the first page of this thread.
Point is that in the past, when the light went out and after the3 min cycling, the car started. Now it starts with the light on. I would have thought that if the resister wasn't correct (it is a gold band type which actually measured 4750 i.e the same as the key) that the car wouldn't start.
Is there any other malfunction that triggers the security light other than an unexpected resistance from the key/ ignition switch? The body shock unit in the rear wheel well?
Interesting that the first time I started the car after installing the resistor, the light stayed off for a few minutes and then came back on. Does the VATS constantly read the resistance of the key/ switch or is it just at startup?
When in doubt disconnect the battery and try again ?