Ebay I'll pm you the link...
Printable View
Ebay I'll pm you the link...
HID Lights Phase one...Fog Lights
Standard Fog lights on Left, HID on Right
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxcaxyxfl.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psd9nopnlx.jpg
They're brighter than my low beams...
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psjwfo0b4w.jpg
How much heat are those HID fogs kicking out? Ive been thonking about some LEDs, myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
HID Lights Phase one...Fog Lights
Standard Fog lights on Left, HID on Right
They're brighter than my low beams...
Got my kmember out, removed the brakes and suspension, and power steering rack to prepare to swap it all over to my UMI road race kmember.
Honestly not sure. They don't feel too hot. They are 35w, 6000k.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whamhammer
Starting the process to repaint my engine bay. Painting it like this and will paint my car like this with black and tan accents.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6b73e5f0fd.jpg
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Washed all 3 of our cars. Then took a clay bar to the trans am followed by Pinnacle Black Label paint sealant. Expensive but has a freshly waxed shine to it unlike alot of sealants.
Started painting my intake. Primer done.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d79c5bf845.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...43769441dc.jpg
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First coat of color.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e6ae6a3e9e.jpg
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Picked her up last night she spent the past week while I was away getting the windows tinted looks bad ass I'll post some pictures tomorrow ( forgot to snap any today and she's all tucked in for the night ) ordered a week ago my new Norris Motorsports billet catch can and he contacted me when I was away that he was out of the color I ordered so contacted him today to only find out he was out of all colors but he was real cool and sent me over to one of his vendors and refunded my money right away, so I was able to get what I wanted and saved $7.04 over ordering from him directly. Took it for inspection today and a little spin. Tomorrow I will order my tourqe arm relocation bracket from UMI to pick up at GM Carlisle next weekend..
^^ Sounds good. BTW - know what I call tinted windows in PA... probable cause! :D
I have had so many cases through the years that started out as a stop for tinted window. My favorite was an illegal from Jamaica that they stopped on the bridge north of Mansfield -- 20 pounds of pot boxed up in the trunk making the run from Philadelphia to Rochester.
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfo4mu9bt.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscj5cscmn.jpg
After thinking about it I realized I told him I wanted 20% and he said that is factory shade, I wanted 35% A little lighter with the dark interior. Oh well it sure does look good and cost me a pretty penny so 20% it is. Just have to take the wife's car when I'm transporting drugs....:cool2:
I wonder how much tint one can add that would be more than factory but yet not give the local constabulary "probable cause" impressions.Quote:
Originally Posted by kingls1
After thinking about it I realized I told him I wanted 20% and he said that is factory shade, I wanted 35% A little lighter with the dark interior. Oh well it sure does look good and cost me a pretty penny so 20% it is. Just have to take the wife's car when I'm transporting drugs....:cool2:
Trying to figure out wheels can't decide with going with 18x11 or 17x11 in the rear. I would like to put 335s on but there are only like 3 choices for 17s lol 18s have a lot more. That or I go with 315s instead but I like the look of 335s just not sure the difference I just know they look good on my Vette.
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Almost done color minus the lettering and clear coat.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...52d46bd995.jpg
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If I had a chance to do it all over, I would have went with 18 inch wheels instead of the 17's but the 17s were too good of a deal to pass up, and at the right time.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6
Out of curiosity, how hard do you think it would be to grind off the lettering, as to keep it on the downlow?Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6Almost done color minus the lettering and clear coat.
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IDK it's pretty high up so quite a bit. But even without it it still is noticeable that it is a fast intake.
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Two coats of clear coat done, I'm liking the medium gloss it has I wasn't sure how it would look but I like it.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4603aae07d.jpg
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Looks good.
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Nice. Looks even better.Quote:
Originally Posted by kingls1
After thinking about it I realized I told him I wanted 20% and he said that is factory shade, I wanted 35% A little lighter with the dark interior. Oh well it sure does look good and cost me a pretty penny so 20% it is. Just have to take the wife's car when I'm transporting drugs....:cool2:
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Some color done minus touch ups and black in the remaining letters, then the final clear.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1574e3f2a1.jpg
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There is Christmas in June.
My family ordered almost all of this without me knowing it.
My wife left an envelope that I wasn't suppose to open till Fathers Day before she left to visit her mom in Panama. Ok I cheated and opened it on Saturday. Note said order your tires...:D
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskszp9cmo.jpg
This was also from her, my son & niece. They ordered me a complete rack & Pinon, new e brake shows and all the stuff I need to convert all my lights over to HID & LED's
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pshzc1efrf.jpg
:nilly:
Damn, Scott - that's awesome! Must be that's your family's way of keeping you out in the garage.
That's impressive: there's no way my wife would have the capacity to even remember the things I tell her about my "hobbies," let alone be able to order them up without consulting me.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TAThere is Christmas in June.
My family ordered almost all of this without me knowing it.
My wife left an envelope that I wasn't suppose to open till Fathers Day before she left to visit her mom in Panama. Ok I cheated and opened it on Saturday. Note said order your tires...:D
This was also from her, my son & niece. They ordered me a complete rack & Pinon, new e brake shows and all the stuff I need to convert all my lights over to HID & LED's
:nilly:
She's a keeper, huh? ;)
Took my 30th Ann. Ed. white TransAm out for a joy ride after being away for a few weeks in a city with no car. Chomping at bit.... Car seems to be getting better with each aggressive drive after all the new fluids and tires rotated. Wow.
p.s. is pollen as bad as salt on chrome? Only bad part of being away was seeing chrome pitting and peeling on my Harley wheel on my return?!?! Was detailed AFTER winter salt, so must be pollen collecting on low side of rim?
I didn't think that pollen would hurt anything... hard to tell though.
Assuming your Harley is being parked outside to cause your pollen problem. If so, having lived in the south for a number of decades where the Georgia pine tree pollen would get a quarter of an inch deep in the spring, I would say no, your problem is not pollen. It could be that either your chrome was already in trouble and just finally gave out or you have a neighborhood dog that likes to mark your wheels for you. Urine is definitely not good for chrome.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird
I begun my suspension work. I bought pre-owned 20k mile Eibach Prokit springs with Bilstein HDs. Got the rear done very fast. Did front left last night with girlfriend helping. Going to do the front right today. Might be ordering adjustable LCAs however. The rear end has a little hop. I have a adjustable Panhard bar ready to go when the subframe connectors go in.
I tackled the rack & pinon, new ps pump hoses and install most of my LED lights for the new smoked out side markers and tail lights. Only lights left to upgrade are the front DRL's and both headlights. Waiting on my kits from DDM Tuning to get here. My low's should be here today, not sure when the high's will get here. Coming from China. Tried to install my wideband but the shop that welded the bung in put the cap in to soon and the plug didn't want to come out. I broke 3 bits trying to get it out. Took it to them this morning and even they had fun getting it off using some of the biggest vice grips I've seen. This time they used a lot of anti-seize to ensure it will come off when I get home tonight.
Here are some pics.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrkgv6imy.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psvsbxqsrh.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psytu510bc.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psp8kbbyyo.jpg
I'll post more once all is done in a how to thread later.
I found they are still making my favorite old "No. 7" chrome & metal polish. Going to give it a try. (No longer DuPont product, but...)Quote:
Originally Posted by sjgreen6
Looking at tires for my TA anyone know if 275 50 17 tires would fit in the front height wise on a car lowered 1.25". Same with the back but 325 45 17.
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I know this isn't what you asked but I have 275-40 in the front and 315-35 (both 17's) in the back. Car is lowered more than an inch and a quarter with no issues. Hope someone can give you an answer to your actual question.
I know those fit which is why I asked about the bigger side wall. I've had the same with 335s on and they fit but not with as big of a side wall as what I asked.
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That sounds like quite some tire. Is there some wheel well gap you are trying to eliminate?Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6
Yeah I have gap even lowered plus I figure it would be good for my set up for the track.
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looks like I'm finally having to replace or rebuild the 10 bolt, I've been cranking it but haven't been driving it for about 2 months so hubby said he would drive it so he took off and came right back saying it sounded like something was loose when you turn left so I took off in it and it does sound like that but I jacked it up and could not find anything loose, I would have to say that the pinion seal is leaking for a while now but I keep the fluid full, but it has 102.000 on it and had twin turbos at one time and was at the drag strip more than a few times so I guess now I'll check the u joints then go and take off the cover and see how much metal is on the magnet, it's a 6 speed this is also 2nd motor waste gate stuck and boom went the 1st motor so bought a 2000 corvette motor it only has 23,438 miles on it, unfortunately, the rest of the car has over 100,000 on it, so off to the drawing board. thanks for reading my ranting, everyone have a good day!
Does it make a whining sound while turning or anything?
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Started assembling my brakes to put on my member.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...61fe64023b.jpg
The rotors are quite a bit bigger than stock
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...93de23bd1f.jpg
And thicker toohttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...926332c951.jpg
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you can hear a little whining but when you turn left sounds like something loose and banging aginst the body but at the rear of the car, like i said i looked and hubby too couldn't find anything loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6
Well you might consider changing the fluid with something with the additive mine did something similar and stopped when I changed it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fws98ws6tt
While on stands, leave the wheel on for this part. Try moving the wheel side to side, up or down. If movement it might just be an axle hub bearing.
Pulled the trigger on some race star wheels 17x4.5 front and 15x10 rear.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...58f2b3129c.jpg I just need to figure out tires now.
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Brought the Trans Am down from the building after lunch and gave it a bath. Going to drive it a bit this week.
Alright so I decided on getting some Mickey Thompson ET Treat S/S 28/12.50r15 tires for the back and Sportsman SR 26/6.0r17 for the front. Should run about $800 to my door but I should be good on traction for when I take the car to the track for the first time after the 421.
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Gone for me are the days of having a candle in the headlights (or how it feels like).
My outside lights are fully LED and HID. A how to thread will be done later this week.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pshx3bgopb.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1yim7auh.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psoyvexa1s.jpg
Old vs New
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7xlgbrhd.jpg
Nice SMWS6TA. The output will certainly be enhanced. I would like to do projector retrofits to mine.
I love it. This is on my list of "most useful" mods... just a matter of getting that far down my list of priorities. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TAGone for me are the days of having a candle in the headlights (or how it feels like).
My outside lights are fully LED and HID. A how to thread will be done later this week.
Old vs New
Me too! FINALLY!Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Monster twin disc installed...long story! AWESOME customer service! I can't say enough good things about Steve Addison! Just AWESOME!
New this spring/summer: poly motor and trans mounts, UMI Trans x-member wither mount for the UNI TA, American Racing Headers (1 7/8"), ARH catted-Y, Borla exhaust with DMH cutout(love the sound of the exhaust through the muffler...old school!), new/reconditioned computer with Frost tune, no more EGR/AIR)
Car is running AWESOME! 100 more miles to go breaking in the clutch and then time for some tire-shredding!
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...DD3CB501C2.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...BA8745F2E6.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...FA3D73B4AE.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...67B2768604.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...2CC16BC10B.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...7CED292FB6.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...0CBA96CFDF.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...A04FEC2F8C.jpg
Giddy like a schoolgirl on prom night! (8-P
Made a how to thread and sticky so when you ready it's here for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Naaman
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-bri...id-led-185822/
John - nice work! Certainly have piled on the improvements to your car over the past several months. Don't forget the Chilson-Wilcox event in Gang Mills -- Friday evening before Labor Day. We'll all be there.
Popped the tops and drove the Trans Am to the cruise in last night. Kind of a light turnout as the weather forecast was a bit iffy and it was quite cloudy.
I lowered mine with a lightly pre-owned setup ( Eibach prokit springs, Bilstein HD shocks ). It rode rough after rear spring install. Well here is my order of installments. Rear shocks ( rode fine ), rear springs ( bounces ), front assemblies ( rode slightly better but still bounced a lot ). This is straight line bouncing whenever the car is cruising or accelerating. With concerns of the pinion shaft I have gone easy on the car.
Some after installation photos.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psymer8bfl.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psg23jsus7.jpg
Much too low in the front, but a perfect 'to me' rear stance.
I then installed my on-car adjustable panhard bar ( UMI ), spent some time with my measurements. The car drove much nicer and didn't feel like it drifted badly anymore. Big difference!
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psnzg3k7kg.jpg
Now tonight I went up to Jeff's place ( with Zack too ) and we put in my subframe connectors ( UMI 2pt bolt-in ) and he had some 1/4" aluminum spacers for the front shock assemblies. Getting my car high enough to get the lift arms under it was interesting in its own. We ended up driving over two blocks of wood and Zack lifted the front right from the engine day for the front right arm to get under the car. It was interesting with the three of us working to pull down the wheel enough to gain clearance for the spacers to slide in. I was hanging on the wheels with all the 170lbs I could dangle down with while Jeff and Zack made clearances and guided them in place :lol:.
A couple shots of my car on Jeff's blocks he built when he did his 3 points. Sits the car perfectly on its own weight to properly do the SFCs.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps0luxqcvz.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psau0dm3e2.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psplqqufby.jpg
We installed the front spacers first. They made the front end sit level with the rear. I am very pleased with the look. The subframe connectors make the car feel more rugged and stronger from just how it feels closing the doors, to taking a tighter turn going down the road. They say the cars should have came factory with them, certainly so! I'm grateful for Pajeff's helping hands and know-how.
In my garage tonight.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...pskswgw7g9.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psw0dvfwka.jpg
I was an extraordinary genius and left my phone on the spoiler as we lifted the car to start the bolts for the SFCs so there isn't an under-carriage shot. So this will have to do.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...pswad7yy5n.jpg
Now remember the bouncing coming from the rear? After doing this to the car tonight it rides smooth and bounces very little. It almost feels stock again, just a little firmer ( a good thing ) and not sloppy, much more controlled feeling. Now I love the setup. The front being that low must have had the driveshaft at a real bad angle. It was damn close to slammed however. I am glad Jeff had these spacers. I was considering going back to stock. Jeff measured the pinion angles and he came up with a down angle 0.7. Next part will be an adjustable torque arm with drive-shaft safety loop. Of coarse, it will be UMI.
:eek2:
Damn... that car looks hot!
So clean!
Can't wait to get these on with tires!They are really light I swear two are lighter than one wheel of the wheels I previously had.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9c3d9ed446.jpg
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Ordered a new fuel pump assembly. GD fuel gremlin is back.... It's gotta be in the tank because I've replaced all the out side of the tank electrical.
The pump was part of your build, right?
I have a Racetronix pump but have been having a random cutout of the pump. Not sure what is the issue, so I'm starting fresh. I think it's something in the wire harness it's self but I can't seem to lock in on it.
Just got it so researching convertible subframe connectors and finding a front plate insert for an 01.
Got a feeling a lot will be done with this car shortly since discovering some of the threads here
Welcome to the site, feel free to ask questions, we got a great bunch of ppl here that are willing to help.
Check in the General Help section we have a thread that holds a lot of fix it threads that might help you.
Great pics! Makes me want to be wrenching again!
Great pics! Makes me want to be wrenching again!
Quote:
Originally Posted by udy2554Me too! FINALLY!
Monster twin disc installed...long story! AWESOME customer service! I can't say enough good things about Steve Addison! Just AWESOME!
New this spring/summer: poly motor and trans mounts, UMI Trans x-member wither mount for the UNI TA, American Racing Headers (1 7/8"), ARH catted-Y, Borla exhaust with DMH cutout(love the sound of the exhaust through the muffler...old school!), new/reconditioned computer with Frost tune, no more EGR/AIR)
Car is running AWESOME! 100 more miles to go breaking in the clutch and then time for some tire-shredding!
Giddy like a schoolgirl on prom night! (8-P
I built a garage 2 years ago, so it's not too bad! I wasn't psyched about having to do it for the third time in a year though!
Now I'm working on wasting a set of tires!
Moved it to the upper garage so we can load up tomorrow and head out to the Pontiac-Oakland Club National show in Illinois! Anyone else attending?
What size are they, and have you weighed the wheels yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6Can't wait to get these on with tires!They are really light I swear two are lighter than one wheel of the wheels I previously had.
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My factory C5 Z06's are 19.5-20 lbs each, the factory WS6 Speedlines are 25-26 lbs.
I really want to get a set of three point, weld on UMI SFC's on my WS6, I can feel the chasis flex well before the suspension and tires are near saying "uncle" on the on/off ramps. I want to get the car stiffened enough before the front control arms, and the new-ish springs go on.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenWS6I lowered mine with a lightly pre-owned setup ( Eibach prokit springs, Bilstein HD shocks ). It rode rough after rear spring install. Well here is my order of installments. Rear shocks ( rode fine ), rear springs ( bounces ), front assemblies ( rode slightly better but still bounced a lot ). This is straight line bouncing whenever the car is cruising or accelerating. With concerns of the pinion shaft I have gone easy on the car.
Some after installation photos.
Much too low in the front, but a perfect 'to me' rear stance.
I then installed my on-car adjustable panhard bar ( UMI ), spent some time with my measurements. The car drove much nicer and didn't feel like it drifted badly anymore. Big difference!
Now tonight I went up to Jeff's place ( with Zack too ) and we put in my subframe connectors ( UMI 2pt bolt-in ) and he had some 1/4" aluminum spacers for the front shock assemblies. Getting my car high enough to get the lift arms under it was interesting in its own. We ended up driving over two blocks of wood and Zack lifted the front right from the engine day for the front right arm to get under the car. It was interesting with the three of us working to pull down the wheel enough to gain clearance for the spacers to slide in. I was hanging on the wheels with all the 170lbs I could dangle down with while Jeff and Zack made clearances and guided them in place :lol:.
A couple shots of my car on Jeff's blocks he built when he did his 3 points. Sits the car perfectly on its own weight to properly do the SFCs.
We installed the front spacers first. They made the front end sit level with the rear. I am very pleased with the look. The subframe connectors make the car feel more rugged and stronger from just how it feels closing the doors, to taking a tighter turn going down the road. They say the cars should have came factory with them, certainly so! I'm grateful for Pajeff's helping hands and know-how.
In my garage tonight.
I was an extraordinary genius and left my phone on the spoiler as we lifted the car to start the bolts for the SFCs so there isn't an under-carriage shot. So this will have to do.
Now remember the bouncing coming from the rear? After doing this to the car tonight it rides smooth and bounces very little. It almost feels stock again, just a little firmer ( a good thing ) and not sloppy, much more controlled feeling. Now I love the setup. The front being that low must have had the driveshaft at a real bad angle. It was damn close to slammed however. I am glad Jeff had these spacers. I was considering going back to stock. Jeff measured the pinion angles and he came up with a down angle 0.7. Next part will be an adjustable torque arm with drive-shaft safety loop. Of coarse, it will be UMI.
They are 17x4.5 and 15x10 and weigh 15# each according to the box. I have not officially weighed them though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whamhammer
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Two point connectors are plenty unless your racing it just a heads upQuote:
Originally Posted by Whamhammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingls1Two point connectors are plenty unless your racing it just a heads upQuote:
Originally Posted by Whamhammer
Now that's not true. 2pts do add a great deal to stiffing up the body and help in body flex.
I started with 2 points and then swapped to 3 points after we decided to engage in straight line racing with our car. I honestly could not notice a difference between the 2 and 3 points from the driver's seat. There is no question though that the 3 points do tie everything together under the car.
i do agree 3pt >2pt> nothing
Just was correcting the thought that they do nothing...
Yes, more mounting points = more rigidity. As fat as 2-points being enough for street driving, that might be true but more rigidity will only help the drivng matters on the car. Even if the 3-point is only 5-10% more than the two points, its great insurance, escpecislly for the cabin, take a look at the begining of the "Frankenbird" thread, and you will know why I want the additional rigidity.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
I spent a good amount of my past career working in bodyshops and have seen what "a little more rigidity" can do. If there was a 4 or 5-point SFC, and it was a good design, and at a reasonable price point, I would buy it.
I wouldn't even consider anything less than 3 point if it were me.
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I just had my 3 point SFC's installed a couple weeks ago. I can't compare 2 vs 3 but there's a noticeable difference in performance and ride. They really tightened up the car - well worth it imo. Brakes upgraded as well to slotted rotors , Hawk perf. pads and braided steel lines. Another very worthy upgrade - even more noticeable of a difference from stock. Gotta go Auto-X ing now !!
I like the three point but at more than double the price it is tough to justify when only a street car.
Test fitted my race star wheels with my CTSV brakes. They fit great. Now I just need some tires.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...40c0921878.jpg
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So.....I got around to doing this. I really do like it. It's been painted using that plastidip stuff. Just wanted to see how it would look to make up my mind on getting them Powder-coated like this.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psf5kqiaal.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskdm6icho.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstodz21h2.jpg
Damn Jon! What happened? Where you just driving along and the tensioner pulley exploded?
Yikes! That is all tore up. Was that a stock tensioner or an aftermarket piece?
Stock tensioner is used on the supercharger system with a different pulley than what it would normally come with.
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I had to hustle today after work but lucky for me the front were no where near as bad as the read in cleaning.
I'll get another pic in daylight.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszr7szog2.jpg
Got a Hooker Aerochamber muffler to try for now. Previous experience with them on other vehicles was good and the price was impossible to beat. Hopefully it gets here soon and we can toss it under there.
You are correct. At around 3500rpm it let loose and ping pong'd around in the motor. Go over to my other thread to see more pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by RONS98TA
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I think you need one of these, Jon.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...daeca81bdc.jpg
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From what I'm learning, the bolt supplied for the pulley on the earlier design versions was a little too short. I don't think the pulley failed. I think the bolt walked out THEN the pulley failed due to it being cocked.
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Will - that's exactly what I run. Tension the belt to 20 lb.ft. using a torque wrench and lock it down - no worries.
Is that the same bolt spacing as the OEM tensioner and will it place the pulley where I need it? If so, I'll keep it in mind. I'd still need to replace that pulley on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6I think you need one of these, Jon.
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That one no it's Vette spacing but you can order it for the Fbody to keep that spacing. Yes it keeps the pulley wherever you place it you manually set it and torque it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
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Yup I was afraid of throwing a belt with my new engine so I got it. It's a high quality piece. It actually feels lighter too.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
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Reading the posts again it sounds like they make a direct replacement for the stock tensioner. I wonder if they could supply it with the pulley I need.
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I'd just get the manual tensioner man. It's better.
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Manual tensioner? How so....with a supercharger and boost the belt will stretch. If you don't have an auto-tensioner you're going to have belt slippage. Am I missing something?
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I did not know a the belt stretches with a supercharger if that's the case then yeah you probably don't want this because you manually set how tight or loose to have it which determines what belt size.
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Ah, ok. It isn't the norm, but it is possible, especially with higher boost applications. It looks like a nice piece that's why I was asking. They probably sell an auto-tensioner also I'm sure. Maybe not.
Jeff - how long have you had yours installed? Belt tension is still where you originally set it?
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Here is the install: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/install...sioner-157326/
I checked it once since installation and it tightened back down to right about the same spot. Now I just check belt deflection with my finger anytime I clean out the catch can.
I finally cracked this nut!!! They turn on/off with the map and rear interior lights.
Front foot well:
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psalgohxjw.jpg
Rear foot well
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps28oazyec.jpg
It's so nice to have a full set of manuals.
I've done a write up and sticky it to the Tech help threads for anyone that wants to do this later on.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/foot-well-lighting-185882/
Car is scheduled to go into paint on Sept 7th....
:nana:
Installed a TSP rumbler cat-back on the TA. Oh and it turned over 300k.
Tomorrow I'm taking my 85 year old mother for a ride. I wonder if I'll be able to hear her and have a conversation. LOL!
