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  1. #1
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Foot Well Lighting

    I've always hated the interior lighting on our 4th Gens. So I decided to install some LED strips to give some light in the foot wells.






    I ordered the LED strips from here:

    $9.00 ea
    https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...light-tube/50/

    So what you'll need since I've done the hard part (finding the correct wires to tap into).

    Wire strippers/crimpers
    Pliers
    Wire 14 or 16 gauge
    #2 Cross tip screwdriver
    Electrician Tape
    Wire Taps (the connectors that allow you to tap into a wire without cutting)
    13mm socket or wrench
    7mm socket & ratchet.
    Needle Nose pliers (for pulling the plastic pins that hold the kick panels in place)
    Maybe a light

    Now 1st Disclaimer.....You will be tapping into the wires coming from the BCM. If you're not confident in doing this then stop now.



    Ok, locate your BCM, it is on the passenger side under the glove box. You access it by removing the plastic body panel that runs along the door jam. IIRC there are 4 cross tip screws. I intentionally leave the one that is a PITA to get to that is midway between the seat out when I reinstall this later. You also remove the kick plate that covers the ac and wiring too.

    The BCM can be pulled down, you may have to pry with aflat tip screwdriver to help it slide out as the plastic case slicks into position to keep it from falling. I honestly forgot to take a pic of the exact location.

    in this pic you can see where roughly it sits if you follow the red & white wires.



    Now that the BCM is out you look at the 3 wire harnesses. you have a 16 pin and 2 6 pin harnesses. The 1st harness you need to check is the middle one, It has Dark Blue/white color (Located in pin position E) this is your constant + (Positive). The next wire is solid white and it is on the 16 pin harness Located in pin position D1. This will be your ground.

    At this time you can hook up a multi-meter to test this by pushing the probes into the pins. Your door is open and the interior lights are on you should see 12v. Now close the door and you'll see the volts drop down as the lights turn off. If it does this you have the correct wires.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 07-28-2016 at 05:46 AM.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Here is the white wire that will be ground.



    Here is the blue/white wire that is your + I colored this wire in red. You'll see that I run my + wire in white later on because I had made my harness before I found the correct sequence and would have used red if I had enough, so I went with white. If you're doing this go ahead and stay red thru out.



    You can also see the taps I'm taking about in both pics.

  3. #3
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Now at this point I tap off the tips to keep from shorting out while I reinstall the BCM home and finish with the install.



    Using a 13mm wrench and socket I pulled my seats to run the wires along the side under the carpet to about the middle of the seat would be. I used a coat hanger in the pic to pull the wires to this access point for the seat controls and wire harness.



    This will be for the rear foot wells. I attached my light strip to the underside of the seat. You may want to run a different location. After the wire and some slack is ran, reinstall the seat. I owe a pic here of where I put mine.

    After mounting the light I make the connection to the wires that I just ran and tuck away the slack but leaving enough room for seat adjustment.

    Now the drivers side takes a little more detail.

    You need to remove the same plastic panel that runs along the door jam and the kick panel as well.

    Run the wires for the rear the same as you did for the passenger side. I ran mine up under the dash by running them along side the wire harness here.



    Then attached them to the light strip for the drivers foot well. I also had a wire set to go thru the dash behind the center consul to bring it back to the passenger side to hook up to the 2 wires from the BCM.


    Here you'll see that I mounted my light strip to the kick panel, drilled a hole for the wires to pass thru and also made a junction that I can disconnect to free the panel for access. I did this for both front light strips. The other spaghetti mess of aftermarket wires is for my gauges, line lock, and e-cutout.




    Drives side






    Passenger side:

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Now that everything has been run and mounted you can reinstall all the panels except the passenger side.

    Here you hook up to the light harnesses to the 2 wires hanging from the BCM. Remember I made Red the + coming off the BCM so my white wire from the harness is my +. i also made it where I could disconnect the whole light strips here as well, after you make the connection to the BCM you now connect the white wire form the BCM to the ground (my black wire on my wire harness). Wiring is now done, tuck them up and reinstall all the panels. I should say you should check the whole system before you reinstall everything but I'm very sure I was ok because I had tested all it prior to running the wires and removing panels.




    Close the door and open it again the light strips should come one and turn off when you close the door.


    Now enjoy.







    This will also set me up for when I go to get lighted door seals from EMBLEM Pros later on.

  5. #5
    024mula 024mula's Avatar
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    silver
    '02 Firebird Formula

    Good write up Scott.
    2002 Firebird Formula - 5.7 Liter - "Last of the Breed"

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Foot Well Lighting

    Thanks
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    78 FB - Just getting started......

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  7. #7
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Nicely done!

  8. #8
    Member 79Firebird_99TA's Avatar
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    Black
    99 Trans Am

    I soldered the hot side of my LED strip to the fused side of the INST fuse. I then obviously grounded the other wire of the strip. Simple and nice to be able to dim them with the interior dimmer.
    `99 Trans Am: Vigilante 2600, Stroked ?(383), Cammed, TSP Catback and Headers,Strano/Koni STR.T, Strano 35/22 Sway Bars, Elite E2 Catch can, 380,000 miles
    `79 Firebird: Pontiac 400 4-speed, Borg Warner Super T-10, XE-268 Cam, Hedman headers, Edelbrock RPM intake, dual exhaust & Flowmasters
    `08 Corvette Base M6 LS3, Morimoto Headlights and Taillights, SLP Blackwing CAI.

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