Are you sure it's not the tire?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhereman
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Are you sure it's not the tire?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhereman
Changed the oil today! Still got to do sparkplugs, fuel filter, redo VATS issue, and buy a new battery
Yes, I'm sure it's not the tire.
Even took it to a shop and they said the same thing.
Aluminum wheels get like that after a bunch of years go by.
Still, I'm shocked that I cannot find factory replacement wheels for her.
She's only 11 years old.
Never heard of a wheel leaking unless it was slammed into a curb or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhereman
It's got some road rash from my SO "borrowing" the car to drive to town.
If you know what I mean.
Thing is she did it a few years ago.
I found a website that deals in nothing but Firebird and Camaro parts.
I might get lucky here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1camino
When I had my 96FB I had Centerline Aztecs for wheels. I had a spin out one day after a rain storm, did three 360* before I regained control. Soon afterwards I started having leak problems with one wheel. Turned out that the spin out flexed the wheel just enough that the tire would not retain it's seal. Ended up having to get a new wheel. It wasn't so bad that it caused any vibrations while driving it, it was just a major PITA to have to refill the tire every 4 days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhereman
Are you looking for the stock 16" wheels? Chrome? Look in the parts for sale thread. A member is selling 3 of them that survived a wreck.
They are 5 spoke 17x9s, polished.
Sounds simple enough, huh.
Man they are hard to find.
GM service manuals usually have a section that addresses "wheel porosity". I believe a sealer or an epoxy filler can be used to repair the affected areas.
At work we use Bead Sealer made by the Rubber Patch Company, you have to clean the rim really good with either a wire brush or an angle grinder with a 3m disc on it. Most of the time the leak is caused by the corrosion around the rim where the bead seals. This usually takes care of it.
Took it out and blew up the transmission. Had it towed to the shop and got online and ordered the level 2 transmission and convertor from PERFORMABUILT TRANSMISSIONS. Should have it sometime next week to be installed
broke the bolt off in my caliper pin while changing my passenger hub, $8 and 3/4 days shipping time I'll be back on the road:soapbox:
didn't get to do my drivers side yet, I bought 2 Timken hubs and had to send one back because it was worse than the hub I pulled off the car today, notchy turning and made noises without any weight even on it. I hope that was just a factory fluke, those things were expensive compared to the cheaper Chinese competition...
add replace wiper arms and replace driver side headlight gear to this list :suicide:Quote:
Originally Posted by silverWS.6
Saturday is going to be a fun day! :yay:
Yes, you should be able to reseal a tire to the wheel. If you can't, I might be interested in buying this rim. I'm looking for a spare rim.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowhereman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Young11b
If you need instructions, I posted a whole thread about pulling mine and tossing in the Performabuilt Level II. Note that the instructions are completely wrong with respect to the converter setback from the face of the bell. There was something else, but I can not recall it at the moment. Here is the thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f64/transm...rt-1-a-156272/
Also, here are the build pics and info from when Performabuilt assembled mine: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/perform...d-pics-153471/
Thanks a lot man, that will definatley help a lot. How do you like the transmission? Have you had any problems with it?Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
THIS!! I had to do all of mine at one point or another. 20-30 bucks you can have a local tire shop do all 4. saves the headache of going 4 times like i did.Quote:
Originally Posted by cpop98ws6
hmmm what did I do with my bird today.... I found out that both axles are bent. It's the cause of my vibration at highway speed. turns out strange axles don't like being street driven (what strange told me) the alloy is too stiff and bends with time. so now i gotta figure out what the heck to do to get new axles in my 12 bolt quickly. i don't wan't to drive it like this.
recently got my magnaflow tips all lined up right. looks bad ass now. that's about it. still haven't bought a Y to get my LTs installed. Any opinions on the american racing y? does it have good clearance?
The axles bent from being street driven? That sounds like a crock-o-crap! Have you measured the runout on the axle flange with a dial indicator?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Young11b
So far... so good. I thought it would hit a little harder at the track, I need to look at my tune and shift points. The other thing I remembered is that if you are running a tune that includes line pressure tweaks now, you want to change them back to stock as it is done through the valve body on the Performabuilt.
Changed the driver side headlight gear, for life this time! :lol: Tried to fix up my DRL's too but I just gotta buy new ones, these are too old, cracked, hazed, painted, and broken. I tried to smoke them but I'm not sure I'm gonna like the look of them smoked once I get them on the car...