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I'm in the same boat. My 2000 SS DD with a little over 90k miles now (I bought it brand new in May 2000), has no piston slap and negligible oil consumption (not noticeable on dipstick) over the 3-to-7k mile oil change intervals (intervals have varied depending on conditions). Likewise, I'm not complaining, but celebrating.Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan
how do u like the valvoline synthetic?Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulfe13
also another question ...has anyone ever gone to a valvoline place to have there car serviced if so what oil filter they use?
I know it is a Pennzoil product but has anyone tried the new Pennzoil Platinum synthetic oil?
Mobil 1 Full synthethic ALWAYS!!!!!!!:shots:
[QUOTE=SSNAKEATER23]Mobil 1 Full synthethic ALWAYS!!!!!!!
Do you really think Mobil 1 is better than Redline?
To tell you the truth i never tried anything else. So i really wouldn't know. I have always used Mobil 1 in all of my cars, what is the deal with redline?
I have not ever used Redline either but I have read where several people say it is much better than Mobil 1. I used Mobil 1 once for about 10 miles. It made our Silverado which had less than 20,000 miles on it very noisey. We went back to Motorcraft and has been quiet and good oil pressure even at idle. I do have 24 quarts of green G.C. but have not tried it yet as we are getting ready to trade the Silverado in and did not want to waste it.
I was just wondering if you liked Mobil 1 better than Redline or Schaffers.
I never thought to try anything else, i never had any problems with Mobil 1. Maybe when the weather breaks i'll give it a try. Can you buy Redline oil at local parts stores?
I checked redlineoil.com and it says around here it can be bought at Auto Zone but I never have looked for it there. You might check the site and see where it is sold near you.
Sarge, which Amsoil 0-30 do you use? An Amsoil dealer I was talking to at the Corvette Convention here in Houston recommended a 0-30 labeled as a diesel oil. He said it's the best/longest lasting that Amsoil makes.
Just curious.
I just changed from dino to synth at 40K, per Sarge, I went out and bought Amsoil 5W30, I have not noticed that my valvetrain or motor being louder, now I have to do the PCV mod!
Well, I just ordered the full compliment of RP products for my driveline. 7 quarts of 10W30, the longer truck K&N oil filter, 6 quarts of the Synchromax Manual Transmission fluid, Royal Purple Ice Super Coolant and (finally) a K&N air filter. With shipping from Thunder Racing it came to a total of $206.96
I'm excited to get it all in my car and get my car out of the garage for some cruising.
I dont know about Mass but here in Calif the Valvoline Instant Oil Change places use a proprietary filter made for them by Purolator. Last oil change, I went to the Valvoline Durablend 5W30. My oil pressure is better. Going to run a UOA at 3K. Well see.Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird99
Hey Toby..... http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tso.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by Tobynine9
Strongest oil I have ever seen....look at this stuff....holy crap!
www.liquidcosworth.com expensive but holy cow this stuff is solid gold...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...osworthVOA.jpg
I see your around today Sarge. SO how is the Goat?
Beast.
Damn Sarge, guess I'm gona go with that 5w40Quote:
Originally Posted by SargeStrongest oil I have ever seen....look at this stuff....holy crap!
www.liquidcosworth.com expensive but holy cow this stuff is solid gold...
Gracias, senior Sarge.
At $9 a liter that stuff better last forever or give my car the ability to wipe my tushy for me.
I wonder if their coolant additive is any good.
I find it funny that all these people use mobile one for 3-4 times the price of regular or blended synthetic... when the results are the same... it's just that once you start using the expensive stuff, you gotta justify it in your own mind... same with anything though... if you buy overpriced goods, you don't want to look silly, so people try to argue it's better when it's really not...
if you change your oil every 2-3k miles, like you should, then mobile 1 will cost you a bundle for no noticeable difference...
Alright, i am fixing my 2000 Durango up (130xxx miles) . have rear end grease and gasket for a long time and its synthtic. Its cool if i put sythetic in my rear end after 130000 or so miles right?
Uh oh, here we go again.:drunk:Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
ever change hot dyno oil in your car, ever change hot synthetic oil... the friction modifiers make a huge difference in temp and protectionQuote:
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
So, seeing that I always get at least 150k or more (usually sell the car before then,) out of a typical motor... with dino oil... should I expect full-synthetic to achieve, what, 250k? How much better, supposedly, is synthetic?
fished this up for ya since you didn't bother to read itQuote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
anyone actually have any numbers to back up the performance increase/longevity/superiority? I've had plenty of people try and convince me, but never any proof...
the only thing I've ever heard is that supposedly the molecules are smaller in synthetic, and that it's more prone to leak out of worn seals in older motors... but I doubt it's significant
Just curious...that many miles, and by your stated assertion you must have had at least two cars, would make a minimum of 300k miles you have driven...and you are 21 years old. So, you've been driving for what, 5 or 6 years... That would mean that you have been driving at least 50 to 60k miles per year... Wow! That's a lot of driving. Where have you been going?Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
Well now there are tons of supporting documentation for synthetics providing better protection/ resulting in longer engine life.....Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
Any VOA ( Virgin Oil Analysis) reflects superior anti oxidation/friction modifiers/seal conditioners/viscosity enhancer etc. found in synthetics....VOA's are done for like $20 bucks and show the TBN along with the components of an oil.......here is a recent one I had done on the Cosworth 5-40
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...osworthVOA.jpg
It reflects and outstanding VOA and a very robust oil.....of course for $8 bucks a liter it damn well better be.. :) Furthermore UOA's ( Used Oil Analysis ) show wear metals and how your choice of oil is doing in your motor with your OCI's ( Oil Change Intervals)...this will show you if you have the proper viscosity and/or oil in your ride and is specific to your driving habits/motor mods/geographical considerations etc....this exercise helps tune your choice of oils.....so a fella in Oklahoma with a LS1 that he baby's around town in 75 degree weather may use 5-30 and get great UOA numbers but a fella in Michigan who is in 20 degree weather and who romps the shit out of his LS1 at every stop light might get numbers that suck bathwater out of the same oil....this "tuning" of an oil is done from the UOA's....
Now to confuse the crap out of everybody what has happened is many of the Dino oils have began adding some significant add packs....significantly closing the gap on much higher dollar synthetics....In the ATF world the gap has all but vanished.....so now you must not only have a series of UOA's to tune your oil...but now you get to run your dino oil 5-6K miles easily......versus about the same for synthetics ( in our motors)...so with the gap so narrow now you gotta look at a return on investment and weigh the added performance ( if any) of higher dollar synthetics and see if they are worth it to you....most folks just want piece of mind they have the best in their baby and that would be a boutique oil like Amsoil/Royal Purple/Schaffers/Cosworth etc......I wouldn't bother with Mobil1/Castrol/Valvoline personally as the add packs found in regular Castrol GTX/Pennzoil are damn near what you get in those synthetics that cost $3 bucks per quart more......bottom line....don't get caught up in the size of a molecule:)
sarge, anyway to make that screenshot bigger?
It is on my PC at the ranch....I'll blow it up a little when I get home....stout stuff though....gobs of Moly:)
yea i just ordered 7 liters of the 5w-40 that i'll put in after the cam swap in 2 weeks
What I was getting at is that I just don't see how the cost can be justified... it's like someone going out and buying a McIntosh car stereo that may sound the same as a rockford fosgate system for 1/20th the price... but once the suck-- person has purchased the more expensive item, they have to justify it in their mind, usually by associating with others who have purchased similar items... every once-in-a-while, I meet someone who is really into the expensive stuff, and their viewpoint is that "if it's expensive, it must be better..." -- Boy, do I despise it when people think like that...
anyways, can someone explain why Full-Synthetic is superior to the cheapo synthetic-blend that I use? Kendall 10w30...
and GatorSS I have owned 3 cars personally, and driven a few others for an extended period of time.
I drive about 400-500 miles a week, due to having two jobs, in cities 100 miles apart, and one of the jobs requiring a great deal of driving... plus I love to drive... no matter what car I'm in... so it all adds up.
The last car I was driving, had 165k on it... and it's had nothing but Valvoline 20w50... except one oil change where I let Firestone put in the Kendall blended-synthetic...
and I never said I personally put all the miles on each vehicle... just that I had driven then and seen them last to past 160k easily with regular-old dino oil...
Most of the people I know that use full synthetic just because a friend told them they had to, or a shop was trying to upsell them... they are also the type of person who will believe that a magnetic device that clamps on your incoming fuel line will somehow give you 20-30hp and 5+ MPG... (which I can't believe anyone would believe that... but that's a different matter altogether.)
it seems that if the benefit outweighed the costs of the full-synthetic, that EVERY car would use it... and every manufacturer would recommend/use it off the show-room floor...
I actually change my oil every 2k miles because I drive the car fairly hard, and deliver in it as well... so I'd spend a fortune on synthetic...
If every manufacturer recommended synthetics or to use the oil as long as it really lasts they'd stop making as much money as they do now. Your changing your oil every 2k with dyno, with a synthetic you could go ever 6k or even longer once you figure out your UOA. Add up the difference in that and you're paying about a dollar more for oil + 2 filters every 6000 miles and not getting the benefits the synthetic has to offer
i have a 89 camaro with 205k on it,always used regular pennzoil 5-30.it still doesn't smoke or use oil.changed regular every 3-5k depending on the time of year.i think synthetics are good but way over priced.
bingo... they rip their customers a new one, with a smile...Quote:
Originally Posted by YoMommasTA
Is this better?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...sworthVOA2.jpg
Yea thanks, loooks great. Going to throw that stuff in my engine when the cam gets swapped next weekend. Now just to figure out the change interval
Sarge,
I know that some people say that large doses of moly will not cause sludge in a engine today but would you be afraid to run a oil with a large amount of moly in an older engine that runs warm anyway?
I have just seen a newer engine that was run on Havoline only that has less than 90,000 miles and it is full of sludge.
Sludge is not caused by Moly....Sludge is caused by dirt/water/oxidation and an oils inability to clean and suspend the crap until it gets to the filter. I'd Auto RX that bad boy ( easy/cheap/very effective) http://www.auto-rx.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by Laguna S-3
and go like hell from there....during the cleaning/rinse cycle only use a dino oil...after that go with whatever oil you want. Quit hanging around "some people" they dont know shit....I bet they are confusing Moly with Teflon and the old STP days.....or they may just go through life confused....I dunno....who knows:)
Sludge is not caused by Moly[/B]....Sludge is caused by dirt/water/oxidation and an oils inability to clean and suspend the crap until it gets to the filter. I'd Auto RX that bad boy ( easy/cheap/very effective) [url]http://www.auto-rx.com
and go like hell from there....during the cleaning/rinse cycle only use a dino oil...after that go with whatever oil you want. Quit hanging around "some people" they dont know shit....I bet they are confusing Moly with Teflon and the old STP days.....or they may just go through life confused....I dunno....who knows:)
I really do not know either, that is why I am asking around. The newer vehicle I saw was a 2002 Silverado with the 5.3 engine. The owner says he changed the oil ever 3-4k miles and took care of it.
The mechanic working on it was a younger guy and was telling a group of us that moly does create sludge. When I told him that I was reading good things about moly, he said you are you going to trust, people that go by UOA's and what they read on the internet or people that work on these engines every day and see the damage that it can cause.
Oh well, I guess I will stay with Valvoline, my Chevelle has 230,000 miles on Valvoline and no problems yet.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Sarge, how does that stuff compair to the Amsoil engine flush?
Problem with solvent based engine flushes like Gunk and stuff is simple....they are (a) very abrasive and are not good for seals/gaskets at all (b) chunks of "stuff" break off and clog your oil pick up tube then you gotta pull your pan and clean all that crap out of there....Auto RX slowly dissolves varnish/sludge....suspends it and delivers it to your oil filter.....this is why an Auto RX cleaning last for a few thousand mile ....Cleaning Phase is like 1500 miles and rinse phase is 2000 miles...during this time not only is the crap dissolved slowly...but your gaskets and seals are getting much need "oils" to make 'em swell and soft again....versus the solvent based stuff is like 15 minutes at idle.....Auto RX is the way to go....no doubt....
That guy is clueless...."who are you going to trust, people that go by UOA's and what they read on the internet or people that work on these engines every day and see the damage that it can cause...." well I'll take a UOA reflecting metal wear and TBN over his "observations" any old day...often times a bad PCV valve causes sludge due the oxidation....a poor fitting air filter or lack of good air filter replacement cycles cause sludge....but to say Moly causes sludge is like me saying carrots cause cancer....just insane.....guy is an idiot....clueless....what definitive analysis does he have to back up his "observations" with fact? If I see a hole burnt in the top of a piston and ask the guy what brand of gasoline he uses and he says Texaco.....and then another burnt piston comes in and he uses Texaco...do I just make the assumption Texaco gas is causing the problem? Nope...A/F is probably causing the problem......on top of that tell your buddy to show me the Moly contents in Havoline anyway....Havoline full synthetic 10-30 only has 23 parts of Moly per MM anyway!!!!! Get his ass on here and let me have a go at the youngster.....no flame wars....just definitive fact....tell him to bring a sack lunch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Laguna S-3
[QUOTE=Sarge]Nope...A/F is probably causing the problem......
What is A/F?
Like I said, I have never used Pennzoil, Havoline or Quaker State so I do not know if they will sludge up an engine or not. I just know that different people think different things, that is why I ask several different people.
Do you know anything about Scaeffers oil, good or bad?
Air/Fuel ratio
i switched to synthetic about a year ago but a mech. down at the chevy dealer told me not to use it until i got more miles has anybody else been told this?
Well I am breaking in the 402 Stroker now....running Castrol GTX 10-40 to get everything to settle down.....I'll run it about 5 hours on the engine change oil and filters ( Dual remote Perma Cool's) and do it again....after about 10 hours we are going to Cosworth 10-40....Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyers
any oil good for not being consumed? I'm using Mobil 1 5w-30 and my TB was sludged up last time I checked.
i played around with different oils to try and find one that doesn't run through so fast.mixing 4 qts 10-30 with 2 qts 15-40 pennzoil cuts oil consumption to almost zero.using 5-30 i use 1qt every 1-2k. one other problem i think is weird is the easier we drive the car the more oil it uses,if we drive it hard it uses nothing.drive all day long steady @ 55mph and it will suck 1qt in 400-500 miles.
You need an oil catch can.....that is not a oil viscosity/brand issue....that is a GM design issue....here....Quote:
Originally Posted by myk02k
http://www.accmachtech.com/pcvcatchcans.htm
Yup...putting a load on the rings ( cylinder pressure) will reduce oil consumption....that is why I subscribe to the theory of " drive it like you stole it" to break a new motor in....these guys who drive a new engine like an old lady never truly seat the rings....stomp that thing man...Quote:
Originally Posted by YoMommasTA
i agree totaly,except the only thing i put my load on anymore is my computer screen:lol:
what the hell... why do we need a catch can?? I don't understand why the LS1 would be DESIGNED to spit oil up like that...
It wasn't DESIGNED to do that, it was an effect of their design, it was fixed with the LS6 PCV system
so, depending on how hard (lateral acceleration-wise,) it's completely normal to be low a quart of oil by the time you need to change it?
I never had a problem with oil consumption after i switched to amsoil
but that tends to be the norm
wow, I've never driven a car that burns oil that still has good seals...
thing is, I've never seen smoke out the pipes...
you'll never see it out the pipes.cats burn so hot nothing gets out alive.
why does any car smoke out the pipes then?
no cats,older cats,pussy cats lol
haha... so if you have pussy-cats, you will blow smoke?
Still breaking in the 402 on AutoZone $1.00 a quart dino. :yup:
I have read most of this thread :faint: - for the education as Sarge says - and I think I want to go the AMSOIL 0W-30 way - I have a local dealer. But I read earlier that someone has piston slap - (which I also have in my T/A)- and it got worse after they put in the AMSOIL.
So, is it a waste of effort and $$$ to try and stop the piston slap? I don't know if I should go synthetic if it makes no difference in the slap. I read that piston slap will ultimately reduce the life of the engine, so I think it's best to try and reduce it. And sometimes I hear the piston slap real loud- and other times hardly or not at all.
What AMSOIL would I use to stop or reduce the piston slap?
oh- and thanks Sarge- your info is tremendous.
how would you describe the piston slap? and does it only do it when it's warming up?
Yes- only when warming up- just like it is explained here in the forum and on that piston slap website mentioned in the discussions. After a minute or two it's gone- but it sounds like a diesel sometimes- and some times it doesn't do it at all. Strange.
My car has this noise also and has had it since day one. I work at a GM(Cadillac) dealership and have not once seen an engine damaged due to piston slap. As far as I know only oil that is too thick will reduce piston slap(straight 40 or 50wt), I use Amsoil 0w-30 and it seemed to quiet it some, but it is still there loud and clear but seems to go away sooner.
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.
Synthetic is the only way to go :)
bah, I hardly hear anything when my car is warming up... it's louder overall... but so is every other cold motor in the world....
is it because we have an aluminum block and it's changing shape while heating up?
Yup. My guess is the iron pistons/aluminum block combination doesn't mix too well in cold temps. We already know that iron has a much higher density than aluminum, but haven't you ever heard of the grave mistake of wiring houses with aluminum during wartime? My childhood house needed a complete re-wiring, we had plenty of fires from the outlets, and there were a few instances that the same models of houses on our block would have a massive fire. All the contracting/compression of aluminum made it a free wire after a while.
I use Bllackstone Labs to do an oil analysis every 5000 miles. I have been trying Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and Penzoil Platinum. Mobil 1 has been showing the least wear.
Mobil One is my choice-it was the first synthetic on the market, they've been at it longer than everyone else.
Aluminum engines are built looser because of the greater expansion rate of aluminum. When the engine warms up the tolerances are as tight as any other engine. As a result of this oil consumption can be worse than some people like. I'm not worried about a little extra oil consumption, not when I know the reason behind it.
There is no connection between aluminum wiring in houses and engine design. And it's debateable about the aluminum wiring being a safety hazard-IF the house was wired correctly in the first place.
Piston slap is the result of the short piston skirts of a performance piston as well as the looser tolerances. It keeps the weight of the piston down to eliminate the long skirts that are used on a lot of OEM pistons. That's why the LS engines rev up so fast, less rotating mass. People freak out on a little noise so you get stuff like heavy pistons and reduced performance for a lot of cars. Piston slap has NEVER been shown to reduce the life of the engine.
Piston slap isnt caused by oil but the piston skirts being too damn short and bangining around in the cylinders.....I fixed my piston slap by dropping a iron block 402 Stroker motor in with Mahle pistons :) Seriously...Amsoil 5-40 European,Red Line 10-40 or Royal Purple Racing 41 all have superior film strength....Castrol GTX 10-40 is also excellent for 5K oil change intervals....Quote:
Originally Posted by Waynestep
If you think aluminum wire is bad, then try and wire your house with iron wire. :drunk:Quote:
Originally Posted by myk02k
:thinkin: I thought Amsoil was the first synthetic... Er, uh, I guess it depends on how you define 'synthetic'...Quote:
Originally Posted by 02z28ls1
...oh, never mind, let me get back to my medication :shots:
Yup, I agree, those "skirts being too damn short" caused so many to get slapped. I said, "Your Honor, I couldn't help it, that booty looked so good under that little short skirt, I just had to grab it. Honest. That's when she slapped the fun right off my face."Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Uh, I know, but I have a prescription for this. Great stuff, I'm finally feeling no pain, but it makes me feel real :drunk:. Now, what was I saying....?
Sarge
I have read most all of this post and have decide to run full syn in my newly acquired 02 Z28 and also in my new DOD 5.3 trail Blazer. I must be in geographical Oddity where I currently reside. I was unable to find an Amisoil dealer within 100 miles. Well I ran out of time so I decided to go with the Castrol Syntec 10/40 with an AC Delco filter. Do you think this oil is too thick? I do remember you saying that it was thicker than the amsoil that you recommend. I will say its hot here we haven’t seen a day time temp below 90 for weeks. Man did it make a huge difference in both of my LSX's more notably in my Z28, but the cold piston slap is more noticable. Aside from the cold slap issue The car runs much smother and I swear it seems to run better. The thing that really bothers me is that tiny play school filter that GM recommends. I know on my dally driver my 93z that it calls for a PF454 but I use the PF1218 that is double the size. I can remember about 5 years ago when they decide to down size that filter. :thinkin: Can any one tell me is there a larger filter in AC Delco that will fit our cars???
Mobil 1. Tore down my 305 @ 100k mi. and the crank surfaces looked beautiful! (block froze) LS1 gets only 5w30 M1. Synthetic Rotella in the Duramax.
Castrol 10-40 is just fine......as for the filters...yup...I run dual filters on all my cars/trucks..... cheap/add oil to the sump and great results...Quote:
Originally Posted by brantsz
you can relocate your filter very easy and run "fullsize" filters...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=14813
And by the way...you have to order from Amsoil LOL www.amsoil.com
But Castrol is fine oil.....
i have always used Mobil 1 10w30 with a Mobil filter, my question is why did Mobil downsize their filter for my 94 TA. I remember last year after i got it out of storage and went to change the oil/filter that my new filter was about have the size that my old one was. Anyone know why they did this, and is the bigger filter better? If so does anyone still make a large filter rather then this liitle dinky thing by Mobil.
I really cannot tell you why the manufacturers went smaller...seems to be alot of debate on "why"...I can tell you a smaller filter is more prone to fill up the filter capacity locking it in bypass mode and allowing your oil to travel around your engine unfiltered....I use dual filters on all my cars....or you can just relocate a single larger filter....makes oil changes easier....Quote:
Originally Posted by 94transamgt
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=14813
Sarge, where do you have the remote setup. I want to mount a MG, but don't know where to put it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
You the man. :notworthy: thanks for the info. I use RP because thats what I see the guys on TV using. I like the K&N oil filter tooQuote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
I wouldn't use TV as the source for what's best or what's right.Quote:
Originally Posted by villa_performance
Thanks for the info Sarge. I believe I will order that remote filter setup. That little filter really bugs the @#%$ outa me.
You can use a K&N hp2006. It's about twice the size of the hp1007 that is called for in our cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by 94transamgt
:werd: I use the HP2006 oil filter. However, I'm about to install a remote filter setup with a larger filter.
I've been thinking about installing one too. Where do you plan on bolting the assembly?Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
Most likely where the AIR pump currently is. I'm getting rid of that AIR junk.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADBLUE02
Hmm......... that'll work.Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
I have a question for everyone here. We just bought a new GMC Sierra Denali with a 6.0L engine. If it was yours what brand of oil would you use? How long would you wait before you switched to a Synthetic?
Thanks
Amsoil - immediately
[QUOTE=Silverado;341012]I have a question for everyone here. We just bought a new GMC Sierra Denali with a 6.0L engine. If it was yours what brand of oil would you use? How long would you wait before you switched to a Synthetic?
Thanks[/QUOTE
Man, you'll get 20 different answers to that question.:sword: I'd say your first oil change, switch to synthetic. I like mobile 1. I've been using it for about 6 years now.
I have a question for everyone here. We just bought a new GMC Sierra Denali with a 6.0L engine. If it was yours what brand of oil would you use? How long would you wait before you switched to a Synthetic?
Thanks
Man, you'll get 20 different answers to that question.:
I really did expect to hear several different oil suggestions but I am hoping that at least one person will suggest the oil that I am using now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverado
Mobil 1. Its excellent oil, and its cost efficient. You can go to Walmart and pick up a 5 quart container of it for $21. So you can do a synthetic oil change, with one of the best oils on the market, for around $25. And then of course you can go 5,000 miles between oil changes without a problem, provided you use a good oil filter.
You can also switch to synthetic at the first oil change, many new cars come from the factory and are broken in on synthetic oil. The whole thing about breaking an engine in on conventional oil is a myth.
What about Red Line oil, does anyone use that oil and if so what do you think of it?
I have enought GC (green) '04 vintage for 6 changes, what would you think of using that oil?
I usually use Valvoline conventional for break in and then Valvoline SynPower, does anyone think that would be a bad idea?
I have never used it but I read where many people like Havoline.....any thoughts on that oil?
anybody think this page has ran its course? 20 pages and a year-old post?
Never used it, but I'm not impressed with redline as a whole. On their diesel fuel additive, it claims to "reduce knock and pinging". Since when do diesels have detonation and preignition?? Its impossible, you'd think someone would have been bright enough to catch that before the labels were printed :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverado
Thats a myth. You can break in the engine on synthetic oil, no problem. There are no benefits to breaking an engine on on dino oil, only drawbacks.Quote:
I usually use Valvoline conventional for break in and then Valvoline SynPower, does anyone think that would be a bad idea?
Its cheap crap. Havoline is the same thing as our store "Advance Auto" brand at work. And that stuff is pure garbage. Then again, what can you expect for $1.68 a quart??Quote:
I have never used it but I read where many people like Havoline.....any thoughts on that oil?
Please explain where you get your information. Many people have tested their Havoline, and have found that it's not "pure crap". In fact, it was non-pure crap enough to go 12000 miles in a 5.3 truck that was beat on, and have enough non-pure crapness to have what the tester called a good 1000 miles left. 13000 on a cheap dino oil isn't what most would call pure crap. Search bobistheoilguy.com for the used oil analysis on the truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesman
