Burnout

I was trying to do a burnout and the first time wheels started spinning then stopped and the car was gunnna turn off. Second attempt didnt get that far just went straight to turning off smoke came out but it wasnt the tires it was clutch. Third attempt wheels spun then car started turnin off. Heres how i did it i pushed the clutch in got it to 4 rpm then dumped it and held the break and tried getting the rpm up to five and kept turning off on me with the tcs off. Did i do something wrong. Oh and i have to jam it to get it into any gear. Doesnt wanna go into reverse at all unless i use force. How bad is the damages and if i let it sit for a lil will it go back to normal until i can find a clutch?

If you have a bad rear main seal, you prob seized the clutch to the pressure plate or flywheel. That would explain the gear selection difficulty. You need a new clutch ASAP. Clutch was probably on the outs before ya did the burnout.

I was in second gear the whole time by the way. I think the clutch was already bad i had problems with it b4. It would pop out of second gear sometimes did it a few times in third. Its rough shifting as is. Now i think i completly destroyed it. Could it be anything else besides the clutch?

Your syncros may be bad. If so, then you will need another clutch and a trans rebuild/replacement...=$$$$

If you are having it stick in a gear or finding it hard to get into a gear, that is normally a broken synchronizer key in the transmission.

That's not cheap! Consists of pulling the transmission and rebuilding like the above said. OEM keys are stamped hollow metal. Aftermarket keys are solid.

why would u have to dump it at 4000 ur car has plenty of power to start a burnout at lower rpms i had a 96 z71 i could do burnouts on at lower rpm and it had 35-12.50s on it

Syncros

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Originally Posted by jaydean21849

why would u have to dump it at 4000 ur car has plenty of power to start a burnout at lower rpms i had a 96 z71 i could do burnouts on at lower rpm and it had 35-12.50s on it

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Maybe he wanted to replace the stock 10 bolt also? :dunno:

good way to get wife to let u do mods tell her it just broke lol

Honestly its not the first time i heard syncros ive heard that twice before when i mentioned the grinding and i was told they tend to be weak on the ws6. I dump it at 4 cause thats what i taught myself at. I noticed if i take traction off rev it to 3 dump it it spins the tires hit the brakes real quick with my foot still on the gas the car starts to turn off but if i go at 4 it stays on. Is there a reason for that? Thats true about the modding i dont have a wife but i have a girl who wont stop telling me stop spending money on the car.

Oh how much am i lookin at price wise for the syncros?

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Originally Posted by animal323

Thats true about the modding i dont have a wife but i have a girl who wont stop telling me stop spending money on the car.

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Sounds like time for a clutch, trans rebuild... and a new g/f!

BTW- when your geting a new clutch and trans rebuilt get yourself a linelock will help alot lol

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Originally Posted by animal323

Oh how much am i lookin at price wise for the syncros?

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Well, that depends. Are you doing it yourself or paying someone to do it?

If you are just buying the parts and know what you are doing, it will not be that expensive. If you are pulling the transmission, I would recommend upgrading some of the other components in there that tend to be weak also, such as your 3-4 shift fork that is aluminum. Get a steel one.

I had mine totally rebuilt by RPM transmission. Their costs are listed on their website; level IV and level V upgrades.

There are also other well-known reputable places to have the work done. Just for a transmission pull and re-install you could be looking at several hundred not including parts or install of parts.

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Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6

BTW- when your geting a new clutch and trans rebuilt get yourself a linelock will help alot lol

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Totally agree on this.

I dont have that type of money rite now. Thats why im trying to get a ballpark figure. Im going to be bringing it to someone to get it done.

You should also be in 1st.... You're bogging it, thats why its shutting down on you.

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Originally Posted by animal323

I dont have that type of money rite now. Thats why im trying to get a ballpark figure. Im going to be bringing it to someone to get it done.

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Keys are $60.

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...17/3508384.htm

A new fork would be an additional $50.
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...17/3508326.htm

I would do that since you'll already have the trans pulled. It's the next weakest link in the T56.

Call a transmission shop and ask how much to replace them??

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Originally Posted by animal323

I dont have that type of money rite now. Thats why im trying to get a ballpark figure. Im going to be bringing it to someone to get it done.

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If you're short on cash, quit doing 4K dumps or you will be replacing your rearend soon.
They are weak.

Good Luck

Thanks for the info SS and i will call a few shops. Bob i no the rearend is weak but throughout the time i owned the car i only attempted 4 burnouts and three were on the same day but it didnt catch not gunna try again until i get a new clutch ill dump at 3 next time.