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Thread: Cam Practicality
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02-26-2006, 12:31 PM #1
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Pewter- 2000 WS6/1999 Silverado Z
Cam Practicality
How good of an idea would it be to put an average size cam in my LS1 that is nearly 100% stock? All I have is a cat back, and a lid is on its way.
SLP Lid / Loudmouth / UMI SFC's, LCA's, and Panhard Bar / !CAGS / Short throw...I need more power!
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02-26-2006, 01:09 PM #2
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- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
I've seen folks get 20-30 RWHP with just a cam and nothing else....
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02-26-2006, 03:07 PM #3
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Originally Posted by Sarge
Adding other breather mods will give you more power than if you had the stock cam.
Say you install this cam and then headers. Headers might give you 20 RWHP.
But on the stock cam they may only give you 15 RWHP.
I think I worded that correctly.
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02-26-2006, 04:12 PM #4
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black- 2000 nhra edition formula
whats youre idea of avarage?
the benchmark 224/224 cam can give up to 40 rwhp if you have supporting mods like headers and such.
also, if you have a automatic trans, a stall converter would be a good idea also2000 nhra edition formula
a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
11.96 @113.25
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02-26-2006, 04:34 PM #5
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Pewter- 2000 WS6/1999 Silverado Z
Yeah, i was looking at the 224/224 cam. The car is a M6. I eventualy plan on having some pacesetter Lts and an ORY hooked up to my hooker cat back. I know it would be ideal to have exhaust first, then cam. I was just wondering what would happen with stock manifolds and Y pipe. What induction mods would you guys suggest to go along with a cam, other than a lid and filter?
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02-26-2006, 04:53 PM #6
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Personally...
I would go with the bolt-ons first.
Some go about it different though.2008 Trailblazer SS
Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
Lowered, HID's, tinted.
1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.
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02-26-2006, 05:36 PM #7
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Black- 2001 Camaro SS
yeah, do induction and exhause first, then cam/vavletrain
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02-26-2006, 06:45 PM #8
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I had my MS3 cam installed before I did full exhaust. I ended up buying long tubes and Y pipe shortly after. Don't do the cam first unless you are planning on getting all the bolt-ons soon after.
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02-27-2006, 06:46 AM #9
I agree, do all your bolt ons and exhaust stuff before going into cams, valves, rockers, etc.
98 T/A: HPE 5.3 Heads, 238/242 113 cam, Kooks 1 7/8 stepped LT headers, Custom Y pipe, Cut out, Borla, NW 90MM TB, FAST 90MM Intake, TB Bypass, Under Drive Power steering and Crank, 150 Dry NOS, Yella Terra rockers, 3400 TC, HPE tuning,
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02-27-2006, 05:34 PM #10
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laser red- 1994 Mustang GT
Originally Posted by 00\/\/S6
lid, LT's, catback, and ls6 intake should be your staple.
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02-27-2006, 09:03 PM #11
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Black- 98 Trans Am
I wouldn't do the 224/224 unless you are sure you will be running LT's. That cam doesn't work very well with stock manifolds, but works great with longtubes. As an example, my friend has stage 2.5 5.3l heads, TR224, fast 78 intake, shorty headers and dyno'd 353 rwhp! Guys with longtubes and the TR224 are usually close to 400rwhp. If you want to stay with shorties or stock manifolds just throw the cheater cam in there. It's made for stock manifolds and will add more like 35 rwhp.
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02-28-2006, 05:48 PM #12
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Black- 99 Camaro
At least do long tube headers and an LS6 intake w/ ported throttle body , or it just is not efficient .
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03-02-2006, 12:14 PM #13
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NBM- 2002 Z28
And don't forget springs when doing a Cam, no matter what!
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03-03-2006, 06:56 AM #14
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red- 03 vy2 holden ls1 ute
Originally Posted by Transam388
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03-03-2006, 01:25 PM #15
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Pewter- 2000 WS6/1999 Silverado Z
Thanks for the info guys! Its been very helpful
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