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Thread: Super Sucker Ram Air System...
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08-12-2009, 07:18 AM #1
Super Sucker Ram Air System...
Has anyone installed this on the "SS". If so, is it worth the money? Let me know fellas...
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08-12-2009, 11:07 AM #2
Don't know what a super sucker system is,,,,but I've done the free ram air mod on both of our SS's and it showed a slight gain at the track.
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08-12-2009, 11:30 AM #3
http://www.macewenmotorsports.com/susuramairsc.html
Here's the link. I'm thinking its the same as the "free ram air mod" just wondering what what kind of gains it would make.
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08-12-2009, 07:15 PM #4
By it straight from the manufacturer and save $40 over the previous post
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...kw=ssra&_sacat=2002 SLP Camaro SS
Onyx Black
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/features/0901gmhtp_2002_chevy_camaro_ss/index.html
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08-12-2009, 07:40 PM #5
Thanks Fx... Your Maro looks great, by the way.
Does that set up really make that much of a difference on performance? I looked into the free ram air mod but I don't really like having to cut anything on my car.
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08-13-2009, 06:02 AM #6
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- Royal Oak, Michigan
- Age
- 52
- Posts
- 236
Black- 2004 GTO A4
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08-13-2009, 06:17 AM #7
I'd just do the free ram air mod and leave it at that. I did install the SLP duct work on one of our SS's. It comes about half way down the radiator.
On this car I did take it to the track and used duct tape to block off the free ramair,,,then made several passes using just the SS hood.
Opening up the free ramair and making a few more passes, I did see an increase in MPH close to 1 mph consistently. So there was a slight gain.
Quite honestly I think the free ramair mod alone would have gotten this,,,since the SLP duct work doesn't account for much in my opinion, not really low enough to grab alot of air.
So on our other SS I did the free ram air mod and just left it at that.
There has been alot of chatter on here about people hydro locking there engines after running through water. And I could see where that might be a problem when you install that SSRA because it's right on the ground. Lowered cars are especially suspect to this.
I personally was never interested in getting the air intake that low, I got a gain at the track I was happy with as is,,, so I stick to the free ramair mod on one and the SLP on the other.
I've never had a problem with water in what have been blinding downpoors and small puddles. Where I think the problem lies is where people are trying to drive through flooded roadways, something an F-body should have no part of in the first place. The lower air dam would act as a scoop if the water is high enough to catch it. Remember it's only maybe 4 inches off the ground with a stock ride height. So if you absolutely have to drive though flooded roadways it's something to keep in mind. We have flooded roads out here in Arizona,,,if I see one I just turn around. Find another way around or just stop at a local fast food joint, grab a drink and sit down, wait for the water to subside.
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08-13-2009, 12:18 PM #8
Sounds like the free ram air mod would be a better choice.... Thanks guys
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08-16-2009, 01:10 PM #9
I put the SSRA on my car. Big difference on the highway. This system gives you more power the faster you go. Helps a little with mpg once you get used to the deeper sound the engine makes from getting enough air.
No problems with hydrolock, but I don't drive through puddles either.
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08-16-2009, 06:49 PM #10
I've been really considering buying it and installing it, I really like the look of it and I don't mind a deeper sound. I guess I should just make a decision.....
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08-16-2009, 08:48 PM #11
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Flint, MI
- Posts
- 166
millenium yellow/green- '02 CETA, '71 Firebird
I really like this kit....I've been looking for a way to keep my stock WS6 air box but improve it somehow. This will work on a T/A right?
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08-17-2009, 07:11 AM #12
for your car i wouldnt do that. u have the ram air hood so use it. get the jaam ram air kit and remove the baffles from your hood. this made a huge difference for me on the highway and now u have a real ram air hood that actually works. im telling you..... the kick in the pants i get now when i stomp on it at 60mph is worth it all by itself.
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08-17-2009, 02:42 PM #13
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Flint, MI
- Posts
- 166
millenium yellow/green- '02 CETA, '71 Firebird
Thanks for the idea, I was unaware that you could remove that piece inside the hood. That would help a lot, thanks
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08-17-2009, 02:53 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- Baltimore, MD.
- Posts
- 728
Bright Red- 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
I gained absolutely nothing from it, over the free ram air mod, on my old 2000 SS.
Sold it after two test & tune sessions proved it was worthless on my car.
Then again, a cutout was also a worthless mod (performance wise) on my car, so................take it for what it's worth.
Some people swear you'll get better mileage and 2/10ths from a ram air...I got zilch.
Some people swear a cutout is the greatest thing since sliced bread...I got zilch.
Some people swear a lot of high dollar suspension crap is needed to hook. all I had was MT drag radials and a Vig 3600 converter....
Weird car I guess.
Car was deadly consistent mid 11 second cam only car FWIW...
2002 Silverado Z71 ECSB HPTuners tuned by yours truly
2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 6.0, 4L80E, 9" rear
webpage: http://www.fquick.com/rel3rd/
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08-17-2009, 05:51 PM #15
Alot of internet chat. I didn't find anything with the duct work either, so the free ram air mod was good enough, and left it be.
You also hear how it's a bad idea for an SS car having air coming from 2 different directions. I never found that to be true either.
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08-17-2009, 07:17 PM #16
make sure u take out both the front baffles and the rear one. the rear one comes out by drilling out the rivets. the front one comes out by drilling out the front rivets, temporarily removing the front screens, and tugging at the baffles to break them free from the glue in there. then put the screens back in and ur good to go
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08-18-2009, 07:13 AM #17
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08-18-2009, 07:29 AM #18
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08-18-2009, 10:21 AM #19
sorry man i didnt take any pics. its very easy though. just remove the screens, drill out all of the little rivets, the rear baffle comes right out, the front ones need to be pushed and tugged a little bit to break the glue and then they go out the same way the rear one did and then u just put the screens back in. the screens use a T-15 torx bit.
no problem. let me know how u like it. just remember if theres a downpour outside, dont be going too fast on the highway because u dont want the airfilter to get wet
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08-19-2009, 09:34 PM #20
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