how to add a small fuse box

[qwik219d9]

I'm planning on adding a couple of circuits (for 2 more guages) each indedendant in seris I'm thinking there are extra unused spots on the stock fuse block how is this done?any write ups w/ images?

I've allready used the extra spot on the side mount fuse box inside the car I had 3 things connected 2 guages and a radar detector 3 was to much so I now only have 1 guage and the radar in parrel on this location.

car is a 99TA.

Thanks

[Hi-Po]

This is how I did things.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121134

[pajeff02]

If you have unutilized circuits, you first need to probe them with a test light to determine if there is actually power present and to determine if it is hot all the time, or only with the key in the run position. If you then find usable terminals, you can simply attach an appropriate connector to a lead wire to power your accessory gauges. You will need to install an in-line fuse not too far from the fuse block though to protect the circuit. All needed parts are available on line, at the Shack, or at most auto parts stores.

[KMdef9]

If you have unutilized circuits, you first need to probe them with a test light to determine if there is actually power present and to determine if it is hot all the time, or only with the key in the run position. If you then find usable terminals, you can simply attach an appropriate connector to a lead wire to power your accessory gauges. You will need to install an in-line fuse not too far from the fuse block though to protect the circuit. All needed parts are available on line, at the Shack, or at most auto parts stores.

That's basically what I would do. Really simple and effective.

You don't need 2 new seperate circuts for 2 guages. Just use thicker wire and the appropriate fuse for the total amount of amps drawn from both guages.

[qwik219d9]

This is how I did things.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121134

nice write up couple of ?s

guages have + and - I think the fused wire goe's to guage + ? doe's the relay wire go to the same spot on the guage?

also the far left wire doe's it start at the + pole inbetween the 2 orginal fuse boxs powering up the relay? confussed on this because wont guages allways be on or do'es the relay keep it off?

whats that fuse looking thing covering the acessary belt diagram?

do you have an image w/out the protective covering?

Thanks this is helpfull stuff

[qwik219d9]

If you have unutilized circuits, you first need to probe them with a test light to determine if there is actually power present and to determine if it is hot all the time, or only with the key in the run position. If you then find usable terminals, you can simply attach an appropriate connector to a lead wire to power your accessory gauges. You will need to install an in-line fuse not too far from the fuse block though to protect the circuit. All needed parts are available on line, at the Shack, or at most auto parts stores.

an extra block would be nice that way I could rewire my current guage an radar detector in series.

anyway what would a connector look like half of a fuse spade cramed into where the fuse would normally sit?

Thanks

[pajeff02]

an extra block would be nice that way I could rewire my current guage an radar detector in series.

anyway what would a connector look like half of a fuse spade cramed into where the fuse would normally sit?

Thanks

They have both large and small spade connectors that can be filed, ground or cut down to fit. I believe they also have fuse taps made for this purpose -- just been a long time since I have looked for any, try this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102780

[Hi-Po]

And that 30 amp fuse is the fuse for the POWER TO RELAY. Every power wire must be fused. Or should be. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

[qwik219d9]

And that 30 amp fuse is the fuse for the POWER TO RELAY. Every power wire must be fused. Or should be. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

sorry to sound so studip however I've never wired a relay, I allways just cramed guage wires into orginal fuse block.

? blue relay wires do they connect to the same + spot on guage as the fused wire doe's?

is this the finale product meaning is there not a dust cover for the fuse block?



? on the fuel presure guage sender the adaptor for the scharder valve doe's it just screw on or doe's the inside of the schrader valve have to be removed?

if it just screws on doe's it depress the nipple on the valve relieving preasure
thus feeding preasure to the sender?

would wrapping the sender an fittings in the heat loom protect it from heat?

Thanks for you help

[Hi-Po]

sorry to sound so studip however I've never wired a relay, I allways just cramed guage wires into orginal fuse block.

? blue relay wires do they connect to the same + spot on guage as the fused wire doe's?

is this the finale product meaning is there not a dust cover for the fuse block?



? on the fuel presure guage sender the adaptor for the scharder valve doe's it just screw on or doe's the inside of the schrader valve have to be removed?

if it just screws on doe's it depress the nipple on the valve relieving preasure
thus feeding preasure to the sender?

would wrapping the sender an fittings in the heat loom protect it from heat?

Thanks for you help

No stupid questions. The blue wire must be T-ed into an exsisting power wire in your car, That ONLY has power when the key is ON. These wires are generally PINK wires under your dash. Test to make sure with a digital multimeter. I did this by finding a connector under the dash (had about 6-7 wires in it, flat connector) and probed the actual connector itself. So, seperate the connecter and test the pink wire with key on/off.


Thats the picture you requested with no loom. In the land of butt connectors, those are the best. Make sure you heat the ends, thats heat shrink tubing there. Other then that, I would Solder everything.

Fuel pressure. You must remove the shrader valve. Same tool used for removing tire valves. I suppose you could cover those fittings, I dont know how much good it would do as thats just a sender. Thats up to you, mine seem to be ok.

Hope that helps

[pajeff02]

Hi-Po: Good information and great pics of your work. I never thought about the fact that you would have to remove the needle from the Schrader valve in order to allow fuel to flow to your sender. I simply presumed there was a fitting similar to a fuel pressure tester that would be used to tap into the valve. Is the Schrader valve the only possible place in the system to attach a sender for a fuel pressure gauge (I believe it is, but am asking to confirm)?

[Hi-Po]

As far as I know. Im sure there are other places, but Im willing to bet they are more difficult to connect.

[qwik219d9]

No stupid questions. The blue wire must be T-ed into an exsisting power wire in your car, That ONLY has power when the key is ON. These wires are generally PINK wires under your dash. Test to make sure with a digital multimeter. I did this by finding a connector under the dash (had about 6-7 wires in it, flat connector) and probed the actual connector itself. So, seperate the connecter and test the pink wire with key on/off.


Thats the picture you requested with no loom. In the land of butt connectors, those are the best. Make sure you heat the ends, thats heat shrink tubing there. Other then that, I would Solder everything.

Fuel pressure. You must remove the shrader valve. Same tool used for removing tire valves. I suppose you could cover those fittings, I dont know how much good it would do as thats just a sender. Thats up to you, mine seem to be ok.

Hope that helps

I thought the schraded valve had to be removed to feed a sender.

?now w/ a sender attached how do you releif fuel preasure, like when I change my fuel fliter?

I was planning on using teflon tape around the threads of the fuel fittings ?would the teflon not melt? ?if it's OK to use the teflon how many layers on each fitting is preferred?

Thanks for the exposed relay image

this is very helpfull infor.

[Hi-Po]

I thought the schraded valve had to be removed to feed a sender.

?now w/ a sender attached how do you releif fuel preasure, like when I change my fuel fliter?

I was planning on using teflon tape around the threads of the fuel fittings ?would the teflon not melt? ?if it's OK to use the teflon how many layers on each fitting is preferred?

Thanks for the exposed relay image

this is very helpfull infor.

Teflon tape is fine. Liquid teflon tape is better and is recomended by most installations intructions. Just make a few pass's with the tape, build it up pretty good. It will not melt.

[qwik219d9]

Teflon tape is fine. Liquid teflon tape is better and is recomended by most installations intructions. Just make a few pass's with the tape, build it up pretty good. It will not melt.

?now w/ a sender attached how do you releif fuel preasure, like when I change my fuel fliter?

Thanks

[pajeff02]

?now w/ a sender attached how do you releif fuel preasure, like when I change my fuel fliter?

Thanks

Probably just carefully crack the line loose from the filter while it is wrapped in a shop towel. Better under the car than in your engine bay.

[Hi-Po]

Probably just carefully crack the line loose from the filter while it is wrapped in a shop towel. Better under the car than in your engine bay.

Probably this.

[qwik219d9]

And that 30 amp fuse is the fuse for the POWER TO RELAY. Every power wire must be fused. Or should be. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

I would prefer the aux. fuse box inside car under dash.

I’m plannind a wide band install and am reluctant to just jump wire + & - from the other 2 existing gauges, read the W/B should have a dedicated circuit.

Couple more ?s

I have a #2 AWG +12V wire inside the car ran though hole under PCM powering my
Stereo amps.

?. can I just splice this #2 wire w/ # 8 to feed the auxicilary fuse box?

?then just use the inside fuse box to tap for the switched +12V relay in?

Thanks for any tips







I'm confussed on why is constant +12V required when I have switched +12V ?