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Thread: Gears, stalls, rear ends
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08-01-2011, 12:37 AM #1
Gears, stalls, rear ends
Please excuse the ignorance in this question as I am still learning. I have an A4 and am wondering does that matter for getting different gears? Also, someone please explain how the gearing numbers work. As in 3.73 4.10. What do the numbers mean and exatcly what does this do for the car?
As far as stalls, I get what it does and all that. My question is, say you have a 3200 stall. How do you race with it? Do you hold it at 3200 prior to launch? If so, what about tires spinning?
I know people say get 12 bolt for an A4, but what does a bigger rear end actually do for stability of the car? I wish I had someone in hawaii that knew what they were looking at to look under my car and tell me what type of suspension work I have done. There are things done but I couldnt tell you what they name of it is. Get what I'm saying?
Thanks for any help yall can give me. Again excuse my ignorance on these issues but I gotta start somewhere.Suspension: Lower control arms (Spohn), Drive shaft safety loop, Torque arm (Edlebrock), Strut tower brace, Panhard Bar (BMR)
Under the Hood: Smooth bellows, Lid, Catch can, LT Headers, ORY, AIR/EGR delete, Poly engine/transmission mounts,
Exterior: Painted brake calipers (Red), Halo “Spyder” Headlights w/matching parking/turn signals (Black)
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08-01-2011, 04:21 AM #2
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- East of Cleveland, Ohio
- Posts
- 3,827
Black- 99 WS.6 - Modified
Gears- gears will affect the acceleration and top speed of a car. A numerically higher gear (refered to as a lower gear) will increase acceleration, and reduce top end speed. A numerically lower gear (refered to as a higher gear) will increase top end speed, and reduce acceleration. The numbers represent the amount of times the driveshaft will turn in relation to how many times the axle/wheel will turn. Example - a car with 3.42:1 gears, the driveshaft will turn 3.42 times to the wheel turning one time.
With a manual transmission, it is usually possible to run a lower gear, as the extra gears in the transmission and gearing ratio in the transmission still allow for a decent top end speed, but improve acceleration. Tires will also affect the gear ratio. Trucks with larger tires will often run a lower gear. A truck with 44" tall tires may run 4.56:1 gears or lower to still allow for drivability on the road. Drag cars with tall slicks will do the same.
As a rule of thumb - for performance on most street cars, auto transmission cars will usually run 3.73:1 gears. Manual transmission cars, 4.10:1 is usually prefered. The whole setup of the car will effect the best gear choice. Rear tire size, forced induction, transmission type, ect., will all play a part in the best gear choice.
Rear end - switching to a different rear end in our cars is quite common. The reason is the stock 10 bolt is weak. It has a small diameter ring gear, lower spline axles, ect.. It just is unable to handle the torque and power our cars can produce. Going to a 9", 12 bolt, or Dana 60, will increase durability. These rears can handle the torque and horsepower without breaking - depending on the amount the car is producing and the proper choice and setup of the rear.
As for the stall and racing, all I can say is practice. Most will launch at a lower rpm than the rating of the stall. However, again, the entire setup of the car will affect where the best launching rpm is.
I hope this helps to answer your questions. Never be afraid to ask. We all are learning. Some of us have just asked these questions earlier in time. Any other questions, just post up. I, as well as many others here on the site, will do our best to help answer them.Last edited by Knight; 08-01-2011 at 04:36 AM.
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08-01-2011, 04:34 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- East of Cleveland, Ohio
- Posts
- 3,827
Black- 99 WS.6 - Modified
Oh yeah - the suspension. The panhard bar runs width wise across the car. It mounts to the frame of the car on the pass. side and mounts to the rear on the driver side.
The sway bar runs underneath the rear width wise across the car, and mounts to the frame on either side. It is clamped or attached to the axle tubes of rear as well.
The lower control arms mount from the frame, just in front of the rear tires, to the rear at the axle tubes.
The torque arm, if stock, will mount on the tailshaft of the transmission and run to the center section of the rear. Aftermarket torque arms will usually either mount to the crossmember, or the tunnel of the car.
Subframe connectors can either be 2 or 3 point. 2 point will mount about midpoint on either side of the car. The point will mount at these points too, but also connect across the car.
Aftermarket parts are usually pretty obvious, due to the way they look compared to stock ones. If you have a question as to whether a part is aftermarket, you could post a picture. We'll see if we can identify it.
Hope this helps too.
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08-01-2011, 08:30 AM #4
It all helps a whole lot. There is for sure some if not all of what you mentioned. Some stamped edlebrock, spohn or sphon which ever it is. Lot of red pieces under there. Im going to check it out today if i dont have to work
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08-01-2011, 03:45 PM #5
where do you even buy these 3.73's from?
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08-01-2011, 04:13 PM #6
These are some pictures that I could get in my garage at home. If you can tell me what it is you see. The kind of blury one is the edlebrock whatever it is but the picture starts at the beginning of the rear end going forward. The E is at the beginning of the rear end. Hope you can help with these.
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08-01-2011, 04:15 PM #7
The picture of the headers is just to see if anyone can tell what type they are. I have another thread about it but I just do not know what type they are or what exhaust I have. There is nothing stamped anywhere on them.
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08-01-2011, 04:25 PM #8
Another question. Get the gears along with a 12 bolt rear or whatever rear i choose? Also, with what you see from the pictures what else do i need?
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08-01-2011, 05:06 PM #9
Definitely has some aftermarket suspension pieces on it already.
Here is an informative thread on selecting a rear: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...to-pick-a-rear
Here is another thread that details the installation of a Moser 12 bolt: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...my-rear-adieu!
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08-01-2011, 05:16 PM #10
What are the pieces that you see? Put em with the number of the picture
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08-01-2011, 05:22 PM #11
Pic 2 appears to be an Edelbrock torque arm -- can't tell if it is adjustable or not.
Pic 3 is a tubular lower control arm with greasable bushings -- not sure of the make.
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08-01-2011, 05:27 PM #12
Spohn is what the tag says on that.
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08-01-2011, 05:28 PM #13
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08-01-2011, 05:35 PM #14
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08-01-2011, 05:43 PM #15
From the pictures, explain where subframe connectors go please
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08-01-2011, 05:45 PM #16
How do you know its an offroad y pipe? What is the difference? Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to grasp this.
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08-01-2011, 05:54 PM #17
I can't tell from the pics if you have SFCs, but judging by the amount of suspension work on the car, the previous owner probably installed them. The SFC will be under the car, on either side of the rocker (basically just under your door jams). They can be either welded-in or bolted. They reinforce the front to rear subframe joint and make the car stiffer. Look for tubular steel reinforcements on either side of the frame which are about 3 feet long.
As for tips on other components... shop around and look at the parts.... it's fun and you learn a lot!
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08-01-2011, 05:57 PM #18
Off-road y-pipe means you do not have catalytic converters... The headers run straight into another pipe unobstructed by cats.
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08-01-2011, 05:59 PM #19
Ok. I knew that abouthe cats just never heard it called that. Cool thanks.
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08-01-2011, 06:04 PM #20
I just looked again. I dont think i have sfc's
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