Bidding my rear adieu!

**pajeff02** · 12-20-2009, 05:40 PM

Thanks to everyone for all the advice and information on "How to pick a rear". I ended up purchasing a Moser 12 bolt equipped with 3.73 gears, an Eaton Truetrac, 33 spline axles, relocation brackets and 4 channel ABS/TCS:

I hope to complete the installation over the holidays. First step is to get the axle cleaned up and prepped for paint. I'll use POR's Metal Ready along with some SEM self-etching primer before paint. I would like to ditch the cheesy chrome cover for an aluminum one -- any clearance issues with the panhard bar? At the same time, the UMI lower control arms and panhard bar will also be installed. Just have to figure out a drive shaft loop and torque arm setup at some point as I do not yet have these.

**02transamce** · 12-20-2009, 07:48 PM

nice rear end,lol. i'm going to make a rear axle purchase very soon,probably the same Moser set up you got,except i'm going to go with a 3.42 rear gear(car see's a lot of interstate 65).if you don't mind,exactly how much did that rear axle cost,pm me. thanks.

**allbaugh_04** · 12-20-2009, 09:12 PM

Sweet...

**pajeff02** · 12-30-2009, 07:01 PM

Moser aluminum cover showed up on the doorstep today. Still awaiting my new torque arm setup from KY Speed and then I should have everything I need for the swap. Unfortunately, I have made almost no progress since posting the pics. I've been helping my best friend move his shop -- divorce FTL.

**Spikito** · 12-30-2009, 09:42 PM

thats a sexy ass rear lol

I've never understood what the number of splines means?

**pajeff02** · 12-31-2009, 05:17 AM

Originally Posted by Spikito

thats a sexy ass rear lol

I've never understood what the number of splines means?

Axle splines -- being the end of the axle which is inserted into the carrier. The idea is that axles with more splines are generally more durable. My understanding is that this spreads the load over a greater surface area, therefore making it stronger.

**WS6S** · 12-31-2009, 08:01 AM

you have a very nice rear pajeff02.i need alot of help with mine.check my thread and please help me,todd in ga

**pajeff02** · 01-01-2010, 06:13 PM

I was finally able to get out to the garage this afternoon to start working on my rear. Of course, the first thing I had to do was test fit the new cover that arrived Wednesday. The cover it shipped with was a stamped and chromed piece, I just never gave it a thought when I placed the order. The stamped cover has been masked over and bolted in place for paint.

After cleaning the inside of the housing and flushing out the pattern dye, I masked and plugged all the holes before hosing it down with brake cleaner. I then scotch padded everything but the center section, wiped it down with denatured alcohol, and then pre-treated the entire axle with POR Metal Ready.

I used compressed air to fully dry the axle and am letting it set overnight. Tomorrow morning I should be able to prime and paint it. Next step will then be to pull the T/A into the workbay and get started on the swap.

**02transamce** · 01-01-2010, 07:14 PM

will that aluminum rear axle cover clear the stock panhard bar?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 01-01-2010, 09:18 PM

The PHB is fine, but you may have some clearance issues with the rear sway bar.

**pajeff02** · 01-02-2010, 04:29 AM

Originally Posted by 02transamce

will that aluminum rear axle cover clear the stock panhard bar?

I mocked it up yesterday and it should have almost an inch of clearance. The instructions indicate that the heads of the bearing support studs may be ground down if there is an issue.

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

The PHB is fine, but you may have some clearance issues with the rear sway bar.

Per Moser, the stock bar should fit but there may be an issue with the mount. The fix is apparently to use a 3" exhaust clamp in place of the factory mount. I won't know though until I get the 10 bolt out of the car and try putting everything back together.

**pajeff02** · 01-02-2010, 12:43 PM

I changed my mind this morning and painted the axle with semi-gloss black POR-15. Normally, I would not utilize POR on new steel but the etch did a real nice job on the axle tubes and brackets. The fact that I would not get good coverage in all the joints if I sprayed it was also a factor. Just finished the second coat about a half hour ago. The pinion yoke is sprayed with SEM self-etching primer in lieu of POR.

**02transamce** · 01-02-2010, 01:43 PM

looks nice.thanks for the info.

**MeGoFast** · 01-05-2010, 01:35 PM

Sweet!

Keep the updates and pics coming!

**pajeff02** · 01-05-2010, 06:09 PM

Last piece of the puzzle for the swap arrived via Fed Ex today.

**INMY01TA** · 01-07-2010, 12:08 PM

Originally Posted by 02transamce

i'm going to go with a 3.42 rear gear(car see's a lot of interstate 65)

Explain why this is a reason to go with 3:42s instead of say 4:10s.

**seweber** · 01-07-2010, 12:21 PM

nice rear, Ive used POR on many roll cages and axles works and looks great

**pajeff02** · 01-07-2010, 12:27 PM

Originally Posted by seweber

nice rear, Ive used POR on many roll cages and axles works and looks great

It is nasty stuff to work with but does a great job. I actually prefer it to powdercoat as it is much more durable imo.

**INMY01TA** · 01-07-2010, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

It is nasty stuff to work with but does a great job. I actually prefer it to powdercoat as it is much more durable imo.

Don't get it on your skin it might not come off for about a month. Lol

**pajeff02** · 01-07-2010, 12:38 PM

Originally Posted by INMY01TA

Don't get it on your skin it might not come off for about a month. Lol

Years ago, when I first used it I splashed a bit on my face -- I just wasn't used to painting with such a thin liquid. The POR solvent burned like hell, but I was able to scrub it off. Anymore, it's long sleeves, latex gloves, and I am always very careful with it.