Results 6,321 to 6,340 of 7102
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10-11-2018, 11:20 AM #6321
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Henryetta/Tulsa Oklahoma
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 3,675
2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
2016 Summit White 1SS - The DD - Mishimoto catch can, Solo axleback & secondary cat delete, LED sidemarkers & reverse lights, head/taillight blackout, RCC custom badges
2001 NBM Trans Am WS6 - Torquer V2 cam, Yank 3000 stall, Transgo kit, Racetronix fuel pump, TSP LTs, Magnaflow catback, Strano Springs/Koni STR.T shocks, 17x9.5/17x11 TTII's
2000 Arctic White SS #1667 - Sold
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10-11-2018, 11:34 AM #6322
If you look inside your throttle body there will be a couple holes for the IAC. It allows a certain amount of metered air through for startup and idling when your throttle plate is cold. Generally with highly modded engines or even cammed cars, you have to either drill or enlarge the hole in the throttle plate to move a little more air. At the top of the inside of the throttle body you'll see a couple of passageways that will divert air through the IAC valve. Check to make sure those are not clogged or gummed with carbon as well.
98 WS6 M6 ASC #2647
Forged Custom 408 w/Vortec YSi
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10-11-2018, 11:36 AM #6323
Also check what your cranking voltage and amperage is at. Check your ground points to make sure they are all clean and contacting well to the chassis. Sometimes a hard start is as simple as a bad grounding cable.
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10-12-2018, 05:51 AM #6324
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Henryetta/Tulsa Oklahoma
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 3,675
2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
Thanks for the suggestions Scott & Allen. Should have some time Saturday or Sunday to break into it again and see what I can do.
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10-12-2018, 06:05 AM #6325
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I may be diving into my 00 FB vert top this weekend. Oh what fun that's going to be
I also need to figure out why the coolant fans aren't coming on as well.
I pull the harness off the sensor they come on, attach it and they die. This is when the car is at running temp. I've used new relays so I know that's not them and even jumped the relays.
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10-14-2018, 10:12 AM #6326
I've tracked down a '95 Camaro which is being parted out.
Guess which part I want? Yep... the roof!!
He wants just over $300 for the relevant part of the roof cut off.
The steel part that is. It'll be myself getting busy with the cheese
wire cutter and heat gun though, as I would not trust anybody else to do a decent job!!!!
Spose that is a big chunk of change for this roof section compared with
what i see you guys paying but it is what it is.
They are not growing on trees over here to be able to haggle!!
Looking forward to getting on with it though!!!
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10-15-2018, 11:52 AM #6327
Put new Bosch 13111 Oxygen Sensors in last night. Got a 3 ton floor jack for the bday which made it a whole lot easier. Installed the lock pin and lock pin spring in the steering column I'm rebuilding. Today, I got the oversized pivot pins for the tilt mechanism and will be installing them today. Love having a garage to work on this on this cold wet rainy day.
Ported/Polished throttle body, Lingenfelter launch module, SLP line lock, QTP exhaust cutout, LS7 clutch, K&N, Ceramic coated longtubes, no cats, 3" exhaust, Flowmaster "B", Eibach springs, Midwest Chassis 9" rearend w/4.10's
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10-18-2018, 06:29 PM #6328
I have an '02 as well but mine's black. My roof ( sail panel ) was terrible and I also got the part from a '95 Camaro. The guy at the junk yard did the cutting with the ' cheese wire ' and only charged me $25. I felt like I stole it !! ...and I know you don't want to hear that ! You're right though, they are getting hard to find even over here
'02 Black RamAir M6--Kooks LTH, Magnaflo, Lowered Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks, Tuned By Frost, K&N & SLP box, Smooth bellows, polished TB, Spohn perf. suspension, shock tower brace. UMI 3point SFC. Front & side splitters w/ canards. American Racing 18" wheels & Mich. Pilot SS titres
'76 LagunaS3 - 355ci , 350 turbo, 3:55's
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10-19-2018, 05:49 AM #6329
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Damn I think I may try pulling some of these in my area and start selling them.
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10-19-2018, 07:56 AM #6330
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10-20-2018, 07:53 AM #6331
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- fort myers,fl
- Age
- 74
- Posts
- 95
black- 1998 trans am convertible
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10-20-2018, 12:12 PM #6332
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
It's for the Corvette C5's.
It's prefer to use if you have Long tube headers.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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10-22-2018, 04:54 AM #6333
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Henryetta/Tulsa Oklahoma
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 3,675
2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
Finally got to the Trans Am this weekend. Replaced the lid, bellow, and connecting hoses between. Removed and thoroughly cleaned a very, very clogged throttle body (catch can here I come). Put it all back together, and she started right up, and been starting and running like a champ since. Now I got my hopes up last time I thought I fixed it, and she went back to her old ways within a week. I'll reserve my FIXED conclusion until the end of this week.
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10-23-2018, 11:48 PM #6334
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10-24-2018, 12:28 PM #6335
I have used Bosch 13111's on my red 2000 Trans Am and my silver 2000 Trans Am. The silver one had the check engine soon light on which showed up as Oxygen Sensor improper switching. I changed out the O2 sensors with Bosch 13111's, and started her up, and immediately, the check engine light went off. They are the same O2 sensors but have an extra long pigtail so that you can connect to the existing wiring harness without having to splice. Believe me, they work and have the exact connector that matches up to your factory wiring harness. They work!!!
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10-25-2018, 02:55 AM #6336
^^ I think Bosch lists 13444 as the correct part number for our cars. We all upgrade to 13111 sensors which, if I recall correctly, are faster switching and were originally used in the Corvette. The harness is a bit longer on the 13111's but this works well with LT's.
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10-25-2018, 10:36 AM #6337
^^They also work well with long tube headers. Just make sure the extra length is coiled up, so as not to hang down and catch on something you might run over or be close to anything that gets hot. Tie wraps are your best friend in this case! I tie wrap my O2 sensor wiring to the frame and away from the headers and away from the block, being careful to not put sharp bends in the wiring coming off of the sensors or the wiring harness connector. Basically plug and play. Helps to have a 3/8" breaker bar and a 7/8" offset O2 sensor socket that is made specifically for O2 sensors. It has a slit in the socket to allow the wiring to pass through. You could cut the old O2 wiring, but then you would not be able to put the socket on the new O2 sensor to tighten it back down. This O2 sensor socket is made so that you don't have to cut and splice the wiring on your new O2 sensor. Worth buying the socket. I bought mine at Harbor Freight, item # 97177 for $6.99. Can't go wrong with the right tool...!
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10-25-2018, 11:25 AM #6338
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I just use an adjustable wrench and some anti-seize on the threads to swap mine. I also don't gorilla tighten it too. Firmly snug is all that's needed.
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10-25-2018, 12:17 PM #6339
What's cool, is the Bosch 13111's come with anti-seize already on the threads, at least they have recently. I cranked down on mine so that the heat, cool, heat, cool cycle wouldn't loosen them up. Don't torque 'em, but tighten them pretty darn good!! I was glad I had a breaker bar, because even with the breaker bar, I had to put some "umphh" behind it. I doubt I would have gotten it loose with an adjustable wrench! Either way, as long as they stay, we're good!!
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10-25-2018, 01:54 PM #6340
Any time I've done o2's I just used an open ended wrench, never had a problem.
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