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  1. #6241
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    mpg, we don't need no stinking mpg......

  2. #6242
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    AZ
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    mpg, we don't need no stinking mpg......


    My "goal" is to build the ultimate 4th gen "car" that can be anything from a daily driver to road trip hot rod. MPG is a factor for me more because I enjoy the "challenge" of putting together a concept that is both fun and practical. Some of the mods I have considered but have not gotten around to yet (and may never, to be honest) are:

    99+ fuel tank (saves 18 lbs and gives me another 1.3 gal to cruise on)
    UMI K-member (saves 25 lbs)
    Lightweight battery (saves 16 lbs)... not sure about this one since I can't confirm that one is available with the proper CCA.
    Splitter (to theoretically improve aero for fuel economy, not top speed or "handling").
    Precision balanced and/or carbon fiber driveshaft (I theorize that less vibration will result in less parasitic loss)
    StopTech Aero Rotors (big brake kit, supposedly several lbs lighter per rotor, which reduces rotating unsprung mass, and stronger braking to boot)


    And a repaint with super duper slippery paint that has 0.0 coefficient of drag
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  3. #6243
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    I'm taking the flywheel to get resurfaced and have the drive shaft reduced by 1/2" today.

    We checked it and found I only had about a 1/4" till it bottom out on the output shaft of the transmission. It needs to be 3/4" or at least 1/2" to be safe.

  4. #6244
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    ^^ Agree. I had to buy a shorter drive shaft for our car after the 12 bolt went in. I think I went around 5/8" shorter.

  5. #6245
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Clutch is ordered.....hope it gets he by Friday...


    After talking it over with some guys here and others I went with the SPEC 3+ this time. Hope I like it, cause I really loved that Monster.

  6. #6246
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    Red
    1998 Pontiac Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Clutch is ordered.....hope it gets he by Friday...


    After talking it over with some guys here and others I went with the SPEC 3+ this time. Hope I like it, cause I really loved that Monster.
    I like my 3+
    98 WS6 M6 ASC #2647
    Forged Custom 408 w/Vortec YSi

  7. #6247
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Clutch is out for delivery as we speak.



    Damn that's fast. I guess Spec ships from Birmingham,

  8. #6248
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    Red
    1998 Pontiac Trans Am

    Nice! I usually have to wait a week or two for parts. I think the longest wait I had was for my heads from AFR. Took about a 3 months to get those in!

  9. #6249
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Red
    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Clutch is out for delivery as we speak.



    Damn that's fast. I guess Spec ships from Birmingham,
    I finally got my Tick MC installed and adjusted. Need to get the plates renewed so I can test drive it. Hopefully it was the MC....

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.

  10. #6250
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Damn today is turning out to be a great day.


    Drive shaft and fly wheel are ready for pick up.

  11. #6251
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    So pretty....



    think I'm going to get some paint on this before I throw it back in.



    Also got a replacement on my pinon flange, the old one was out of round for the u joints. This may be the slight vibration I was feeling at hwy speeds.

  12. #6252
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert









    No idea what this is?

  13. #6253
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Called Spec and found out that the item above is a replacement throw out bearing for our slaves. It is replaceable, instead of replacing the entire slave. I did not know that.

  14. #6254
    Senior Member Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    2016 Camaro SS - Summit
    2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Called Spec and found out that the item above is a replacement throw out bearing for our slaves. It is replaceable, instead of replacing the entire slave. I did not know that.
    Interesting...I replaced my slave twice on the old SS and always thought it was a complete assembly or nothing.

    Well my latest parts list isn't quite as exciting lol, but today I ordered a replacement driver window switch and MSD plug wires. I think the "Livewire" set on the car was a one-and-done, been noticing some random misfire after changing the plugs. I was suspicious when some of the wires didn't seem to 'click' in place while others did and loudly. Hell I was suspicious because I've never heard of that brand of plug wire before then, pretty sure previous owner bought them simply because they were blue.

    I keep putting off buying that damn steering rack. I think I just don't want to be the one to install it...

    2016 Summit White 1SS - The DD - Mishimoto catch can, Solo axleback & secondary cat delete, LED sidemarkers & reverse lights, head/taillight blackout, RCC custom badges
    2001 NBM Trans Am WS6 - Torquer V2 cam, Yank 3000 stall, Transgo kit, Racetronix fuel pump, TSP LTs, Magnaflow catback, Strano Springs/Koni STR.T shocks, 17x9.5/17x11 TTII's
    2000 Arctic White SS #1667 - Sold

  15. #6255
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    LOL...I know how that feels. I replaced my R&P and that was a choir. The tie rods fought me to the point I said f it and cut them off.


    I had plan on getting my front drag wheels at this time, looks like it will be Christmas gift to myself now.


    Hard part for me is the 500 mile break in period. I'm not to patient with that stuff....
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-30-2018 at 07:42 AM.

  16. #6256
    Member TransAmTerry's Avatar
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    black
    02 TransAm Ramair WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by Whamhammer View Post
    What condition are your rear bushings? What tire pressure are you running?

    The only time I get wheel hop is when I drive on Bulletmores crappy streets.
    Sorry, haven't been on in a while - so busy !! anyway,, I think my rear bushings are ok and right around 30 lbs in the tires. I think its the Spone lower control arms I had installed awhile back. I'll get around to putting on the relocation brackets I bought someday and see how that does. .. if it ever stops being 94,000 damn degrees out !!!
    '02 Black RamAir M6--Kooks LTH, Magnaflo, Lowered Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks, Tuned By Frost, K&N & SLP box, Smooth bellows, polished TB, Spohn perf. suspension, shock tower brace. UMI 3point SFC. Front & side splitters w/ canards. American Racing 18" wheels & Mich. Pilot SS titres
    '76 LagunaS3 - 355ci , 350 turbo, 3:55's

  17. #6257
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    So I've driven it about 100 miles now since Saturday. What a big difference, even the wife noticed it.

    I gotta get used to the engagement window. It bites hard and is on or off, no give. Track going to be fun again.


    I gotta break it in 500 miles 1st before I do that. I plan on putting it back up in the air and going over all the stuff again to make sure nothing loosen up.


    The shorten drive shaft fixed a few issues. No more vibration in the drive line or hard hits when the suspension cycled from hard bumps or letting off the pedal during high rpms.


    I had to use the shim that came with the kit.

  18. #6258
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    Red
    1998 Pontiac Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    So I've driven it about 100 miles now since Saturday. What a big difference, even the wife noticed it.

    I gotta get used to the engagement window. It bites hard and is on or off, no give. Track going to be fun again.


    I gotta break it in 500 miles 1st before I do that. I plan on putting it back up in the air and going over all the stuff again to make sure nothing loosen up.


    The shorten drive shaft fixed a few issues. No more vibration in the drive line or hard hits when the suspension cycled from hard bumps or letting off the pedal during high rpms.


    I had to use the shim that came with the kit.
    Yep, that's a Spec 3+! I used the shim in mine as well. I also run an adjustable master cylinder and set my engagement point low to the floor. But yeah it's an on/off clutch for sure!

  19. #6259
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Red
    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Quote Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998 View Post
    Yep, that's a Spec 3+! I used the shim in mine as well. I also run an adjustable master cylinder and set my engagement point low to the floor. But yeah it's an on/off clutch for sure!
    How do you set the engagement point? I just finished installing one and it's my understanding that you basically set the clutch pedal based on smooth shifting so the adjustment is where it is. Right now my clutch pedal is about even with the brake pedal, Maybe a bit below. I had the pedal adjusted closer to the floor, but it wouldnt shift so I needed more volume displacement.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  20. #6260
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    Red
    1998 Pontiac Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    How do you set the engagement point? I just finished installing one and it's my understanding that you basically set the clutch pedal based on smooth shifting so the adjustment is where it is. Right now my clutch pedal is about even with the brake pedal, Maybe a bit below. I had the pedal adjusted closer to the floor, but it wouldnt shift so I needed more volume displacement.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Part of it was the slave cylinder shim. That helped lower the engagement point. The adjustable master adjust the mechanical throw of the pedal. The hydraulic engagement point is the shim as it brings the slave closer to the pressure plate.

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