What did you do with your Trans Am today?

**Redphoenix1998** · 08-23-2017, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Transmission status report...It's going to hurt much more....

The major issues:
This time the 3rd gear locker ring broke in 3 places.
All syncros are trashed and need replaced, 1-4 syncro teeth are rounded off in spots (this is why I had hard time shifting)
5-6 gear ring is wraped.
Main Output shaft is seriously FUBAR in 3 spots.

Minor Issues:
Counter Shaft, 5 & 6 gears have a minor chipped tooth that looks like it may have been from a key when it broke apart. Minor in that there are no cracks in the gears, just the very tip of the gear tooth is missing but all are still usable.

So my options are:

1) fix all of the major issues with a stock output shaft for $1060
2) Fix all of the major issues but upgrade to Viper shaft (which comes with new 1350 Yoke and some more stuff) for $1340
3) or wait till Hell freezes over to save up enough for a TR6060 conversion for $5000.

Those prices are on top of the stg 2 build already paid.

Going with Viper option.

Funny how when a T56 grenades.....it literally grenades

Sorry man that hurts but I feel your pain!

**Whamhammer** · 08-23-2017, 05:37 PM

Filled up "Gracie" on the way home, another 23 mpg week! I ran the A/C a lot this time, and also had the T-Tops off.

**Whamhammer** · 08-23-2017, 05:43 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Transmission status report...It's going to hurt much more....

The major issues:
This time the 3rd gear locker ring broke in 3 places.
All syncros are trashed and need replaced, 1-4 syncro teeth are rounded off in spots (this is why I had hard time shifting)
5-6 gear ring is wraped.
Main Output shaft is seriously FUBAR in 3 spots.

Minor Issues:
Counter Shaft, 5 & 6 gears have a minor chipped tooth that looks like it may have been from a key when it broke apart. Minor in that there are no cracks in the gears, just the very tip of the gear tooth is missing but all are still usable.

So my options are:

1) fix all of the major issues with a stock output shaft for $1060
2) Fix all of the major issues but upgrade to Viper shaft (which comes with new 1350 Yoke and some more stuff) for $1340
3) or wait till Hell freezes over to save up enough for a TR6060 conversion for $5000.

Those prices are on top of the stg 2 build already paid.

Going with Viper option.

There is always option 4...

Stop breaking stuff!

**Whamhammer** · 08-23-2017, 05:52 PM

Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

Whamhammer and I had a good time at the All Pontiac Show on Sat. 175 Pontiacs in total, probably 40 to 50 of them were Firebirds and T/A's. We had 6 in the '82 to '02 modified class and managed to take best in class. I was very surprised !!. We thought Scott might take Ladies Choice award because of the kids seat in the back seat but no go :-(. Now to put the Auto-X tires back on for next weekend. --- having all kinds of fun with it this year !!

Yeah, I guess I need to "purtie" my car up, probably the crack in the door and the rust on the headlight bracket didn't help much, and I think that it is entirely possible that I have more miles on my car than the entire rest of the class had put together

.

I did win a door prize of cleaning wipes, so I didn't totally lose out, and I know at least one other person (that wasn't me) voted for my car, so it's a start.

Next years goal, two people that aren't me voting for my car

**Zapper2003** · 08-24-2017, 07:37 AM

Starting to hate flickr too. What will be a worthy photo hosting site that's easy to get direct picture links. Photobucket has gone by the wayside, flickr is so damn protected I can't share shit and Facebook is out of the question.

**Zapper2003** · 08-24-2017, 07:46 AM

another attempt...

...another fail

**Zapper2003** · 08-24-2017, 07:50 AM

Click image for larger version.

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**Zapper2003** · 08-24-2017, 07:51 AM

Click image for larger version.

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Click image for larger version.

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**Zapper2003** · 08-24-2017, 07:52 AM

Let me know if those work

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-24-2017, 07:52 AM

They do. Nice shots.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

**Redphoenix1998** · 08-24-2017, 08:46 AM

Originally Posted by Zapper2003

Starting to hate flickr too. What will be a worthy photo hosting site that's easy to get direct picture links. Photobucket has gone by the wayside, flickr is so damn protected I can't share shit and Facebook is out of the question.

Been using IMGUR and it's been working out good so far. Depending where your photo comes from though you need to make sure you resize the aspect ratio. They have shareable links for posting in forums and other media so it's nice.

**Zapper2003** · 08-24-2017, 11:20 AM

Flikr doesn't have a direct .jpg link, and to use the /img tag doesn't work. Their desktop site has an embed link, but I can't access that from their app nor from the mobile version of the site (even in desktop mode on mobile). Pain in the ass. Those there I just saved to my phone and uploaded to the site. Should get bigger if clicked on.

**joesurfer** · 08-24-2017, 12:16 PM

What does that Autotrix do? Make them go down faster? How's the install process?

thanks

**joesurfer** · 08-24-2017, 12:38 PM

What does the Autotrix do?

***SMWS6TA*** · 08-24-2017, 12:39 PM

Originally Posted by joesurfer

What does that Autotrix do? Make them go down faster? How's the install process?

thanks

The kit comes with relays and wire harness that bypasses the the factory wiring. The issue is that a lazy GM Engineer ran the + wire to the drivers motor then directly over to the passenger motor. By the time the current reaches the passenger motor it has dropped in voltage for both motors. The charge is weak enough that over time it kills the passenger motor and if you do both sides at same time it will kill the drivers side too. Thus the reason you seem to have to constantly need to replace the motors.

The harness has you directly go to the + post next to the fuse box. You have enough wire to hide it if you choose to. I've done the wire hide mode on both sides of the engine bay and it had plenty of wire to do it that way. You can't even see my hood latch cable.

It takes an hour to do if you have to replace the motor. Print off the instruction photo's with a color printer. He's updated them from when I did mine and it's much easier to see then before. Hardest part is running the wires from the door into the car and then thru the fire wall behind the ecm. You'll need to remove it to pull the wires thru. Not too hard but still a PITA.

WELL WORTH EVERY PENNY!!!! I did mine in 09 and still on both window motors. My buddy over that time period has replaced his motor 4 times. I finally convinced him this last time to let me do it.

**joesurfer** · 08-24-2017, 04:13 PM

ok, cool. Might be worth a shot. But got a few other other things first, like SFC's and rear shocks...:cry2

***SMWS6TA*** · 08-24-2017, 06:23 PM

it's $37

**joesurfer** · 08-25-2017, 03:12 AM

got a link or source?

**Whamhammer** · 08-25-2017, 03:40 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

The kit comes with relays and wire harness that bypasses the the factory wiring. The issue is that a lazy GM Engineer ran the + wire to the drivers motor then directly over to the passenger motor. By the time the current reaches the passenger motor it has dropped in voltage for both motors. The charge is weak enough that over time it kills the passenger motor and if you do both sides at same time it will kill the drivers side too. Thus the reason you seem to have to constantly need to replace the motors.

The harness has you directly go to the + post next to the fuse box. You have enough wire to hide it if you choose to. I've done the wire hide mode on both sides of the engine bay and it had plenty of wire to do it that way. You can't even see my hood latch cable.

It takes an hour to do if you have to replace the motor. Print off the instruction photo's with a color printer. He's updated them from when I did mine and it's much easier to see then before. Hardest part is running the wires from the door into the car and then thru the fire wall behind the ecm. You'll need to remove it to pull the wires thru. Not too hard but still a PITA.

WELL WORTH EVERY PENNY!!!! I did mine in 09 and still on both window motors. My buddy over that time period has replaced his motor 4 times. I finally convinced him this last time to let me do it.

I was on that site and read the instructions, is there any way to not have to run the wiring through the fire to the engine bay, and then back in through the firewall again?

Sounds like going through ones elbow to get to ones arse.

***SMWS6TA*** · 08-25-2017, 06:01 AM

Originally Posted by Whamhammer

I was on that site and read the instructions, is there any way to not have to run the wiring through the fire to the engine bay, and then back in through the firewall again?

Sounds like going through ones elbow to get to ones arse.

Which kit did you look at? There are 2. One that fixes the power issue the other does that and does the express down like the drivers side?

The power only should only have you running the power and ground from the switch harness thru the door jam into the cabin then thru the fire wall. You should then run it along the passenger fender towards the battery then along the front (I ran mine along the harness that connects the front lights and washer) then up to the red cap that is the + post next to the fuse box.