What did you do with your Trans Am today?

[DarrenWS6]

I am about to prove the TAs versitality, yet again, buy picking up a new 50 inch TV in it.

My girlfriend bought a big tote the other day and we had my Cobalt SS, pissed me off some LOL.

Try going in through the hole directly below the front turn signal, I used to it all the time. Check to see if the lens isn't split down the middle, vertically, I put some packing tape on the front of mine, until I use the new set I bought, after I get some body/paint work done, eventually.

I tried that once. My hand is a bit large for it but it is a possibility.

Check for chicken pox and door panel cracks.

Chicken pox? What is this referring to, a bubbled sail panel?

Next time take a 1/8" drill and drill a hole on the bottom side of the housing. I've done it to them and my rear lights and have yet to have any moisture build up since. It lets the water drain off. On the back lights if the water stands, over time you'll lose your reflective chrome on the inside and the only way to fix it is you either carefully take it apart and rechrome it or get a new light.

Interesting ideas.

I had a blinker bulb keep blowing due to the socket burnt issue, and the housings were beat from age/heat. My fix was new Depo housings, and Sylvania Zevo LED 3157 bulbs. Looks great and the amber is nice and bright like I like. I also did a new LED/electronic flasher to accommodate the hyper-flash. I'm all about LED. No heat, and no lag/instant response. And, after being on for a long time, the housings are not at all warm as the LEDs do not put out heat. Here is a video from the swap.

And a photo of the DRLs on. I love the brightness.


I fear the taillamp issue the most. For taillamps, I never let standing water sit. I never drive in the rain or let the car stay wet also. After every car wash I blow compressed air all over to remove water from the moldings, badges, fender/hood grills, door handles, key holes, t-tops, wiper blades, pretty much everywhere. Yes, the car is a crown jewel to me. But I focus on the hatch area with it open and fully blow the water down the spoiler arms, and dry the jams from the roof line to the taillamps. I also spray Adams Quick Detailer while I microfiber dry. Makes everything look great, adds mild additional protection, and garage smells like candy for a day.

[TransAmTerry]

Sorry man, I wasn't trying to make a dig at ya or anything. I know that mine is slow. With only the GMPP HOTcam and an LS6 intake it's on the lower end, I was just saying sometimes a better driver in a slower car can take the win. Though I got a call from TEA today and they finished up my set of 243s on their stage 2 cnc job and are shipping them back to me. Along with that I am installing a new cam to replace the HOTcam. Going from that small 219/228 .525/.525 112 LSA to a medium 230/234 .630/.612 112+2 LSA specced out my Martin. I am shooting for more low & midrange than top end since I don't ever do track days to keep it a good daily. Also updating the lifters to some Johnson 2110R. Now I just need to save up some to replace the rear end since it is still sporting the 3.23 gears from when it was an A4 before I swapped it for a T56. Though, it does get killer gas mileage on the highway right now

No prob !!. I hear ya on the heads and cam. I suppose that's gonna be my next step/investment eventually. .. then the rear - probably out of necessity !! Then a good dyno tune. I'll have to study up on all that though to get the right set up cause I've never dealt with any of that in the past. All in due time.
What do you project your HP to be once all that work is done ??

[Decadence75]

No prob !!. I hear ya on the heads and cam. I suppose that's gonna be my next step/investment eventually. .. then the rear - probably out of necessity !! Then a good dyno tune. I'll have to study up on all that though to get the right set up cause I've never dealt with any of that in the past. All in due time.
What do you project your HP to be once all that work is done ??

Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

[35th-ANV-SS]

A different rear-end will get less since stronger rear-ends are less efficient.

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[Whamhammer]

Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

The shop that's done most of my work suggested to me that the most realistic rwhp I would be seeing out of a heads/cam/injector/tb build, with the mods I already have would be about 425, if I wanted to capture the most area "under the curve", and not have to rev the thing crazy (undo give up on good bottom end and midrange torque).

He said I would need to add some displacement, and suggested a stroker.
I figure I want a 4 inch bore to get the most out of flow, and am thinking of doing a bottom end refresh, with a set of Darton 4.03 or so "wet" resleeves.

[Decadence75]

A different rear-end will get less since stronger rear-ends are less efficient.

True dat. But I would think that 450 wouldn't be out of the ballpark even with an S60.

The shop that's done most of my work suggested to me that the most realistic rwhp I would be seeing out of a heads/cam/injector/tb build, with the mods I already have would be about 425, if I wanted to capture the most area "under the curve", and not have to rev the thing crazy (undo give up on good bottom end and midrange torque).

He said I would need to add some displacement, and suggested a stroker.
I figure I want a 4 inch bore to get the most out of flow, and am thinking of doing a bottom end refresh, with a set of Darton 4.03 or so "wet" resleeves.

There are plenty of stock displacement LS1s out there pushing way more than 425. If you are sticking to stock heads with a very mild cam like the gmpp hotcam I am running now, that would sound about right. However, I am putting on some 243s that have gone through the TEA stage 2 cnc porting along with a good cam that is specced specifically for low to midrange torque.

If you are wanting more displacement I advise on not even wasting your money on work with the LS1. Grab an iron LQ4 or LK9 from the junkyard, bore and stroke it to a 408 and have fun. It will cost less in the long run and you will have a stouter block.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I don't think you're going to be seeing as high of numbers as you're thinking (not 475 anyway). A very LARGE cam with aftermarket heads (such as high-flowing AFR 225's) barely net 450rwhp and that's with a lot of other bolt-on mods. Maybe with a ported throttle body, larger intake like a FAST, etc you "might" squeeze 450-460rwhp. Very doubtful imo. Unless you're planning on running a tune on the ragged edge.

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[Decadence75]

I don't think you're going to be seeing as high of numbers as you're thinking (not 475 anyway). A very LARGE cam with aftermarket heads (such as high-flowing AFR 225's) barely net 450rwhp and that's with a lot of other bolt-on mods. Maybe with a ported throttle body, larger intake like a FAST, etc you "might" squeeze 450-460rwhp. Very doubtful imo. Unless you're planning on running a tune on the ragged edge.

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I really don't have a number goal in mind. As I said, I was pulling numbers outta my butt I would be comfortable with 430-450 which I don't think is out of the realm of possibility. I have a ported TB but only an LS6 intake at the moment. Plan to go to a FAST 102 when I can. The cam going in is 230/234 .630/.612 112+2 for torque so the numbers might be a good bit lower than what I said earlier. But at the end of the day I just want something that is gonna catch and pull for fun rather than racing so a hp number doesn't really matter to me.

You mention AFR as high flow heads though, but the TEA program will flow just as well. And as we know bench flow numbers don't mean a whole lot as they can be tweaked to be nice. All in all, I imagine I will be happy with the results. I sincerely appreciate your input though. I would like to know what else you think about the setup.

Thanks!

[35th-ANV-SS]

It's going to be a great setup that'll make you very happy. I was just making those notes so you don't get disappointed is all. Sounds like you have the right mentality about it all though already, so that's good. Some people get too hyped up over numbers. The important thing, as you mentioned, is that the car runs well and a big part of that is your tuner knowing the setup and how to tune it both effectively, and safely.

As you probably know, I went the FI route, so I never really "dug into" different NA setups in great detail, but I've been on various forums for a very long time and regularly, so I've seen a lot of different combos.

There's a hp/tq thread on here that's been ongoing for probably close to 10 years if you can find it. It has people's setups and their results. Good info to get an idea. But, like I said, and you said, just make sure the car runs healthy.

The only real suggestion I have is to ensure the car will be capable of efficiently planting that new found power to the ground. I went the opposite route of most people in the car scene. I did the following in the order I have it noted:

1. Cat-back exhaust
2. Sub-frame connectors
3. Lower control arms
4. Torque arm
5. Pan hard bar
6. Headers
7. Built T56
8. Aftermarket clutch
9. Rear end
10. Drag radials
11. Lowering springs
12. Shocks
13. Procharger with lots of amenities.

So, power was the very last thing I added. There's a lot of other stuff outside of what I have listed that was also added, but that's basically it in a nutshell.

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[SMWS6TA]

Chicken pox? What is this referring to, a bubbled sail panel?

Yes.

Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

A different rear-end will get less since stronger rear-ends are less efficient.

With my 403 I'm at 450 to the wheels, mainly because of my heads and need of a cam that is designed for strokers. Only way to get a stock LS1 to mid 400's is aftermarket, intake, heads and Cam with a serious tune as well as a baby shot of nitrous.

[SMWS6TA]

Just to pull a number out of my arse, I would estimate around 450-475 to the wheel. It will likely all depend on the tune. Though I don't think I would get those numbers out of the A4 rear end I have in there right now. But once I can replace it I would think somewhere in that range give or take. I don't have any LS tuners local to me so I will have to do what I can with my HPTuners to make it run ok then take it a few hours south to EPS for them to do something proper. I am thinking of swapping over to an SD tune during the process. I will be shooting for a Stange S60 rear with probably 3.90 gears for my rear.

Geoff (EPS) has done mine as well as my buddies 383 stroker. He is an awesome guy, was the brain of Thunder Racing before he lost it in a divorce. When I was having tuning issues he helped me find the cause. If I'm willing to travel 3.5 hrs to go to him, you're closer so.....

I'll be going to him always for tuning.

He also did my SD tuning. Before you go that route see what you Pressure Altitude (PA) is on average throughout the year. If you're not close to sea level a SD Tune might not benefit you. Well what I mean is that there will be times that having a SD Tune will work against you like when you have big changes in PA or high altitudes.

Mine is SD tune and I'm at sea level all year.

[Decadence75]

It's going to be a great setup that'll make you very happy. I was just making those notes so you don't get disappointed is all. Sounds like you have the right mentality about it all though already, so that's good. Some people get too hyped up over numbers. The important thing, as you mentioned, is that the car runs well and a big part of that is your tuner knowing the setup and how to tune it both effectively, and safely.

As you probably know, I went the FI route, so I never really "dug into" different NA setups in great detail, but I've been on various forums for a very long time and regularly, so I've seen a lot of different combos.

There's a hp/tq thread on here that's been ongoing for probably close to 10 years if you can find it. It has people's setups and their results. Good info to get an idea. But, like I said, and you said, just make sure the car runs healthy.

The only real suggestion I have is to ensure the car will be capable of efficiently planting that new found power to the ground. I went the opposite route of most people in the car scene. I did the following in the order I have it noted:

1. Cat-back exhaust
2. Sub-frame connectors
3. Lower control arms
4. Torque arm
5. Pan hard bar
6. Headers
7. Built T56
8. Aftermarket clutch
9. Rear end
10. Drag radials
11. Lowering springs
12. Shocks
13. Procharger with lots of amenities.

So, power was the very last thing I added. There's a lot of other stuff outside of what I have listed that was also added, but that's basically it in a nutshell.

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Thanks for the input! I tend to go about it in a haphazzard way with no real plan to start with.

I went catback to start, wasn't happy with it then went true duals.
Then went lid & ls6 intake.
Then hotcam, LS6 springs, hardened pushrods and ported oil pump
Then adjustable panhard
Then adjustable torque arm
Then adjustable LCA with relocation brackets
Then an SS4000 stall in the auto
Then installed a guage pod with the larger A4 pan tapped for a sender
Then decided I didn't want an auto and swapped to a T56
Now I am swapping cams again to something better with much better heads since I am still on the factory 853s

Projects I still have yet to do but have had the parts piled up in a room are drilled & slotted rotors, caliper rebuilds, Strano springs, Koni STR.T shocks, carbon fiber sail panel. Probably going to remove the pillar pods since I was using that to keep an eye in the A4.

I want to so Subframe connectors though. Ben back and forth for years on the bolt in vs welded.

Plus I have a ton of audio stuff to go in, ala speaker box in the back ect.

So much to do, so little time. But the power comes first, haha. Plus I need to get a new rear to take all this new power. My only saving grace is that I am still running the old A4 3.23 gears which has saved me from breaking the factory 10 bolt as it is.

[Decadence75]

Geoff (EPS) has done mine as well as my buddies 383 stroker. He is an awesome guy, was the brain of Thunder Racing before he lost it in a divorce. When I was having tuning issues he helped me find the cause. If I'm willing to travel 3.5 hrs to go to him, you're closer so.....

I'll be going to him always for tuning.

He also did my SD tuning. Before you go that route see what you Pressure Altitude (PA) is on average throughout the year. If you're not close to sea level a SD Tune might not benefit you. Well what I mean is that there will be times that having a SD Tune will work against you like when you have big changes in PA or high altitudes.

Mine is SD tune and I'm at sea level all year.

Geoff was who I had in mind to do my tune as well. Do you have to dop the car off and come back to get it or is it something where I can bring it to him, spend the day in new orleans and the pick it up later?

I am in Jackson, so I don't expect my DA will be much different from yours.

[35th-ANV-SS]

My pinion seal was leaking on my 10-bolt with only 10k miles on my car with stock power and my car is a garage queen. Was a very minor leak, but still a leak. I went with a Moser 9" and never looked back. In hindsight, I would like to now have a higher gear such as a 3.50 or maybe higher instead of the 4.11 I have. 1st gear with the Procharger is done in a blink of an eye. 2nd isn't much better lol. Sure makes it a lot of fun though.

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[SMWS6TA]

He makes you an appointment, and when you show up, you're it, no one else. He likes you to show around 9:30-10 am. I suggest bring it on a trailer, otherwise it will need to cool off for him to start. He'll ask you what mods you've done and will try to build a baseline tune prior to you getting there. If all goes well you could be in and out under 3 hrs. He tries to get you done right and will take the time it needs to get it right.


You can also drop it off but he has very limited space so I'm not sure on how long he'll store it, check with him though.

[Decadence75]

My pinion seal was leaking on my 10-bolt with only 10k miles on my car with stock power and my car is a garage queen. Was a very minor leak, but still a leak. I went with a Moser 9" and never looked back. In hindsight, I would like to now have a higher gear such as a 3.50 or maybe higher instead of the 4.11 I have. 1st gear with the Procharger is done in a blink of an eye. 2nd isn't much better lol. Sure makes it a lot of fun though.

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I did maintenance and changed fluid in the rear a few years ago. No leaks. I am more concerned with breaking it, haha.

When I do swap to a better rear I plan on going with a 3.90 gear. I think that would be a good compromise from full on raceing 4.10/4.11 to the stock 3.42. I can imagine that first is gone in a blink with the procharger setup especially.

He makes you an appointment, and when you show up, you're it, no one else. He likes you to show around 9:30-10 am. I suggest bring it on a trailer, otherwise it will need to cool off for him to start. He'll ask you what mods you've done and will try to build a baseline tune prior to you getting there. If all goes well you could be in and out under 3 hrs. He tries to get you done right and will take the time it needs to get it right.


You can also drop it off but he has very limited space so I'm not sure on how long he'll store it, check with him though.

That's great to hear. I planned on trailering it down there, I just didn't know if I would have to leave it and make another trip down to pick it up or what. Glad to know I can go down there and back with a tuned car in the same day.

[SMWS6TA]

With 4.11 gears 1st goes quick in a 403ci motor too....

[Whamhammer]

True dat. But I would think that 450 wouldn't be out of the ballpark even with an S60.



There are plenty of stock displacement LS1s out there pushing way more than 425. If you are sticking to stock heads with a very mild cam like the gmpp hotcam I am running now, that would sound about right. However, I am putting on some 243s that have gone through the TEA stage 2 cnc porting along with a good cam that is specced specifically for low to midrange torque.

If you are wanting more displacement I advise on not even wasting your money on work with the LS1. Grab an iron LQ4 or LK9 from the junkyard, bore and stroke it to a 408 and have fun. It will cost less in the long run and you will have a stouter block.

The reason I would resleeve is that:

A) save front end ( and total ) weight with an aluminum block, yes I also am planning on a tubular k member
B) not have to go through a bunch of refitting with an LS2-3 block (to continue saving weight)
C) by the time I buy, and do whatever I have to do to an iron block (repeat after me: "crapshoot"), it'd be pretty close to what a resleeve and new pistons would be anyways
D) I am not interested in a stroker, the stroke on the engine is fine enough.
E) If I wanted mega-power/mega cubes, I would just get an LS7 bare block, I just want the most power I can get under the curve, and maximum drivability (by unshrouding the valves). There's no real threat of me building enough power to worry about needing an iron block.

[Whamhammer]

My pinion seal was leaking on my 10-bolt with only 10k miles on my car with stock power and my car is a garage queen. Was a very minor leak, but still a leak. I went with a Moser 9" and never looked back. In hindsight, I would like to now have a higher gear such as a 3.50 or maybe higher instead of the 4.11 I have. 1st gear with the Procharger is done in a blink of an eye. 2nd isn't much better lol. Sure makes it a lot of fun though.

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Just for the record, the factory inspected all ten bolts and rejected any units that DIDN'T have a leaking pinion seal.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Yep, the block on the LS1 is plenty stout. So is the crank. Nobody in this thread is pushing enough power to come even remotely close to damaging either. Plenty of people out there pushing 800+ on LS1's, and safely. You just need to forge the pistons and connecting rods and slap a turbo or supercharger on....with all the other necessities of course.

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