My Head/Cam Install

**Firebirdjones** · 11-15-2010, 06:37 AM

Originally Posted by splitfinger09

Heads will be here tomorrow! Have a question though. I saw someone use a 220 grit sand paper block to clean the block deck. I uses this method as well, but I have not seen anyone esle do that. Did I damage the block deck? Also any tips on how to use the comp cams pushrod checker? Thanks!

Holy moly, you used 220 grit paper to clean an aluminum deck surface???

Usually the head gasket surfaces are rated a certain stone, 40-50-60?? To seal specific head gaskets.
Sanding with 220 not only creates a very rough surface, but doing it by hand I can only wonder if you created dips and irregularities on the deck surface.

Aluminum is tricky to clean without gouging. I generally prefer to clean with chemical first, and anything stubborn or left behind I might use a razor blade being carefull not to scratch the surface.

**incbed** · 11-15-2010, 08:20 AM

Razor blade is the best way

**shady milkman** · 11-15-2010, 08:36 AM

Originally Posted by splitfinger09

I saw someone use a 220 grit sand paper block to clean the block deck. I uses this method as well, but I have not seen anyone esle do that.

ever wonder why ? i hope to god you didn't really screw your deck up... :

i have heard for aluminum blocks it is best to use a paint scrapper ..plastic one at that..others have used razor blades and chemicals ..but you need to be very careful with the really sharp edged devices not to gouge the shit out of it.

i would personally take it to a shop and have the check it out / clean it up.

**clg82** · 11-15-2010, 12:19 PM

Great thread guys......if only cali wasn't so bad with smog I would try and do this install myself.

**ibanez7** · 11-15-2010, 12:54 PM

everything you need to now about a cam swap right here!!

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

BIG TIP:
one things I recommend doing when replacing the oil pump, is file notches into the head of the bolt (the bolt that holds the pick up tube to the pump). This way you can use a flathead to start turning the bolt into place when you reassemble.

Also be sure to wrap fishing line or a steal wire around that same bolt so it does not fall into the crank case. otherwise your pulling the engine.

**splitfinger09** · 11-15-2010, 01:33 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Holy moly, you used 220 grit paper to clean an aluminum deck surface???

Usually the head gasket surfaces are rated a certain stone, 40-50-60?? To seal specific head gaskets.
Sanding with 220 not only creates a very rough surface, but doing it by hand I can only wonder if you created dips and irregularities on the deck surface.

Aluminum is tricky to clean without gouging. I generally prefer to clean with chemical first, and anything stubborn or left behind I might use a razor blade being carefull not to scratch the surface.

Originally Posted by incbed

Razor blade is the best way

Originally Posted by shady milkman

ever wonder why ? i hope to god you didn't really screw your deck up... :

i have heard for aluminum blocks it is best to use a paint scrapper ..plastic one at that..others have used razor blades and chemicals ..but you need to be very careful with the really sharp edged devices not to gouge the shit out of it.

i would personally take it to a shop and have the check it out / clean it up.

fml. I dont know wtf I was thinking. what is my best course of action at this point??? I hate to link to tech, but here is the thread I was looking at. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...o-results.html

**splitfinger09** · 11-15-2010, 01:54 PM

Dont know if this helps at all but here are some pics

I feel like shit right now. I really have no idea how to tell if I messed it up or not...

**splitfinger09** · 11-15-2010, 02:07 PM

Well on a more happy not even though im freaking out right now thinking that I totally f@*#ed my block deck up. I got my cam installed with no complications.

**Firebirdjones** · 11-15-2010, 02:38 PM

I really don't know what advice to give you at this point. I can't really tell much of anything in the pictures.
Just make sure everything is clean, reassemble and hope for the best

Before you throw the heads on, be sure to clean out the trash that has dropped into the cylinders (I see it in the pics). Suck it out with a shop vac first to get the big stuff, then it helps to rotate the motor a few times, it will leave trash at the top of the cylinder walls that gets trapped between the piston crown and top ring, so you can simply wipe it out.

I usually clean the tops of the pistons while they sit at top dead center too.

**splitfinger09** · 11-15-2010, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

I really don't know what advice to give you at this point. I can't really tell much of anything in the pictures.
Just make sure everything is clean, reassemble and hope for the best

Before you throw the heads on, be sure to clean out the trash that has dropped into the cylinders (I see it in the pics). Suck it out with a shop vac first to get the big stuff, then it helps to rotate the motor a few times, it will leave trash at the top of the cylinder walls that gets trapped between the piston crown and top ring, so you can simply wipe it out.

I usually clean the tops of the pistons while they sit at top dead center too.

Ok so is there really a way that I could tell if I did any damage (it was a sanding block to btw not just paper)? What would the fix be? If I reassemble it and there was damage done, how could I tell? As far as the cleaning goes I will make sure its spotless. I know im a dumbass but thank you for your help...

**TRANS-DAD** · 11-16-2010, 06:16 AM

Dude don't panic!!....im pretty sure that 220 didn't hurt the surface! you used a block so im sure your are fine!.........if it would of been on an orbital sander or somthing like that then mabe so! but I think your ok! Like firebirdjones said just blow all trash out,use cometic gaskets & should bee fine!!

**splitfinger09** · 11-16-2010, 01:09 PM

Originally Posted by TRANS-DAD

Dude don't panic!!....im pretty sure that 220 didn't hurt the surface! you used a block so im sure your are fine!.........if it would of been on an orbital sander or somthing like that then mabe so! but I think your ok! Like firebirdjones said just blow all trash out,use cometic gaskets & should bee fine!!

Ok I am trying not to panic lol. Im not gonna lie I did not sleep much last night :/ The gasket that came with my kit is the GM Multi Layer Steel. Is this not a good option for me? Thanks for everyones help in my time of me being a dumbass.

**xmarkx** · 11-16-2010, 05:15 PM

Originally Posted by splitfinger09

Ok I am trying not to panic lol. Im not gonna lie I did not sleep much last night :/ The gasket that came with my kit is the GM Multi Layer Steel. Is this not a good option for me? Thanks for everyones help in my time of me being a dumbass.

mls gaskets are good.

**splitfinger09** · 11-16-2010, 06:57 PM

Originally Posted by xmarkx

mls gaskets are good.

what makes the cometic different? Does it seal any better?

**splitfinger09** · 11-16-2010, 07:09 PM

Heads are here!

**shady milkman** · 11-17-2010, 08:55 AM

Originally Posted by splitfinger09

Heads are here!

those are awesome

**Jay37** · 11-17-2010, 04:08 PM

Originally Posted by splitfinger09

Ok so is there really a way that I could tell if I did any damage (it was a sanding block to btw not just paper)? What would the fix be? If I reassemble it and there was damage done, how could I tell? As far as the cleaning goes I will make sure its spotless. I know im a dumbass but thank you for your help...

I think we have all been there lol. I also think your fine bro. In my experiance, I have worked with a number of profesional mechanics that to save time when changing head gaskets, instead of sitting there with a razor, clean the deck off with an ABRASIVE disc on a dremel tool. I wouldn't do it, or recommend that anyone does it, but the cars never had a problem, and these guys have made a living there whole life doing this type of stuff.

I agree with firebird jones and transdad. If you wanted to be 100% sure though, you could check your deck flatness, It will give you closure too! Wether you sanded on it or not. It is something most engine builders always do on a engine with tighter clearances. To do it get a machinist strait edge, and a feeler gauge. lay the strait edge on the block, (and this will take patience to do it right) and while moving the strait edge around see if at ANY part of the deck surface, you can get a 0.003" feeler gauge under the strait edge. That is the LS1 maximum deck warpage specification. If you get that one under, It just means your at your max, if you can get a 0.004" under it then you are out of spec. I always have somebody else check it too, if the measurement I come up with is out of spec. just to make sure it really is out of spec. Worst case scenario... you have to get your deck resurfaced. Hope that helps.
If you put it together, and that turned out to be a problem. The most likely thing would be a blown head gasket, because at the "low" area there wouldn't be enought seating pressure on the gasket. You would either have 1. a dead cylinder 2. oil leaking into coolant 3. coolant leaking into combustion chamber.

**incbed** · 11-18-2010, 09:12 AM

I think you will be fine since you used your hand and not a power tool

.

This may have been mentioned already ,,but make sure the head bolt holes don't have any fluid or trash in them before bolting the heads down.

And don't freak out when you read how to torque the heads down.

**splitfinger09** · 11-18-2010, 11:33 AM

Originally Posted by Jay37

I think we have all been there lol. I also think your fine bro. In my experiance, I have worked with a number of profesional mechanics that to save time when changing head gaskets, instead of sitting there with a razor, clean the deck off with an ABRASIVE disc on a dremel tool. I wouldn't do it, or recommend that anyone does it, but the cars never had a problem, and these guys have made a living there whole life doing this type of stuff.

I agree with firebird jones and transdad. If you wanted to be 100% sure though, you could check your deck flatness, It will give you closure too! Wether you sanded on it or not. It is something most engine builders always do on a engine with tighter clearances. To do it get a machinist strait edge, and a feeler gauge. lay the strait edge on the block, (and this will take patience to do it right) and while moving the strait edge around see if at ANY part of the deck surface, you can get a 0.003" feeler gauge under the strait edge. That is the LS1 maximum deck warpage specification. If you get that one under, It just means your at your max, if you can get a 0.004" under it then you are out of spec. I always have somebody else check it too, if the measurement I come up with is out of spec. just to make sure it really is out of spec. Worst case scenario... you have to get your deck resurfaced. Hope that helps.
If you put it together, and that turned out to be a problem. The most likely thing would be a blown head gasket, because at the "low" area there wouldn't be enought seating pressure on the gasket. You would either have 1. a dead cylinder 2. oil leaking into coolant 3. coolant leaking into combustion chamber.

I found a feeler gauge at sears, but not sure where I can find a strait edge? Also say that I did mess it up and put it all back together. Would it be FUBAR or could I fix it at that point? How do I clean the tops of the pistons? Are the MLS gaskets ok?

Originally Posted by incbed

I think you will be fine since you used your hand and not a power tool

.

This may have been mentioned already ,,but make sure the head bolt holes don't have any fluid or trash in them before bolting the heads down.

And don't freak out when you read how to torque the heads down.

God I hope so!!! Is the torque sequence on LS1 How To still correct for ARP bolts?

**Jay37** · 11-18-2010, 01:31 PM

For a strait edge, because of your time situation, maybe one of your local machine shops will borrow you one? Other wise you would probably have to order it. (northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=3756) Its pricey, 80$ IMO not worth it for a do it your selfer. Just keep it clean, like the guys said shopvac, I would wipe it down with ATF after, then assemble.

I have to give it to you man, impressive to hear that your undertaking all this for the first time by yourself, seems to me like your doing great. Just pay attention and follow the BOOK!