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Thread: Rear Seat Speakers
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03-05-2010, 01:26 PM #21
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03-05-2010, 02:44 PM #22
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- Mar 2008
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
I can't complain with my 4ohm CVT's on the monsoon amp. they bump VERY hard for stock sized units. My problem is that I want to get a matching set of components and the sail panel holes are where they fit without cutting anything. so I'm going to have to step up to a stealth box with a dedicated sub.
If you can wait it out there might be some 4ohm CVT's for sale soon ;-)
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03-08-2010, 09:18 AM #23
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03-08-2010, 09:22 AM #24
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03-08-2010, 10:08 AM #25
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03-08-2010, 02:28 PM #26
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
I spent the weekend tweaking the settings on my stereo.... having twin 16 band equalizers plus time correction in the head can be a pain.... the results were great though.... I'm rather torn as to what I should do. If I got the 5 1/4 inch version of my front components they would be a bolt on in the hatch area. but i'd still need two amps to power the components and the sails. Plus with the CVT's I wouldn't get the bump i'd get from a dedicated 10" in the hatch..... of course I could go with a 10 incher and the CVT's but then i'd need THREE amps!!!!! sigh..... The easiest is to get the matching components and put them in the sails and get a stealth box.... I'm just not sure it's the Ideal solution for sound quality.....
Why must this stereo stuff be so hard.... I mean performance isn't... want to go faster?? buy a rear end and mod the hell out of the engine
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03-09-2010, 02:38 PM #27
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- Feb 2006
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- Orange County, NY
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always dirty- 2013 Ram 2014 Caddy ATS
What about a 6 channel amp. Run the cvt's as subs. Then you could do your components in the front and put 5 1/4 in the hatch. Place the tweeters from the hatch speakers near the cvt's. You could add one more amp and add a stealth box with all of that too if you wanted a little more bass.
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03-22-2010, 05:05 PM #28
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03-24-2010, 04:27 AM #29
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- Jul 2009
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- Ohio (Union county)
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- 47
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Pewter- 2002 T/A WS-6
If anyone is considering these : I saw this and checked out the LS1tech link seemed good. I wanted more info so.... I then took the model # off the back of the speaker they have in the pic (Audiopipe TS-VR6)and googled it and found them as low as $17.95 each All specs appeared the same.
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03-24-2010, 05:46 AM #30
Now, to be clear, the Audiopipe TS-VR6's will work with a factory monsoon system and sound good??
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03-24-2010, 01:44 PM #31
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
The reason i wouldn't do that is because my HU supports either passive or active xover networks. If I were to go active, i doubt i will, that would never work. As far as running that in passive? well i suppose i could split the sub RCA's and put them to both amps but I had wanted to use a specific set of speakers. I was looking at the TS-C720PRS for my sails. They do sell a model of that same component set that would fit in the hatch with a little modification for the beefy tweeters. With that setup I wanted to use the matching Pioneer amp for them. 6 channel sort of goes out the window when you have a 4 channel matched amp.
The reason I didn't want to use the smaller speakers in the hatch was because I wanted all the sensitivities to match across the board. From the HU to the amp to the speakers I would have an identical path to each. Then I'd prob get better results when letting the HU do it's thing with setting the time differentials and dual 16 band equalizers.
I think the biggest snag here is mounting these beastly big tweeters in the sail panels without cutting the sail panels lol.
Well..... that and cash.... stuff ain't cheap.
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03-26-2010, 04:47 PM #32
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- Jul 2009
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- Ohio (Union county)
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Pewter- 2002 T/A WS-6
Ordered a set and started to put them in today. Easy install. Factory has a quickl connect plug with short wires sodered to the speaker.
New Audio pipes have phillips head screws for connection.
Mounting holes look a lil off but they work.
BEWARE: when your tightening the wire screws support from the bottom or dont push down (just twist) the brackets holding them are not strong. Found out the hard way.
Good Luck.
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03-30-2010, 06:32 AM #33
Some Install pics.
haven't had any time to mess around with my EQ (and I use an iPod adapter) so dont have a very extensive review about them. I seemed to have lost some mid range and bass at low volumes. Maybe some tweeking can fix it, or anyone else with them chime in. But as far as the install, easy and clean. I drilled new holes to line them up better. Hope this helps.
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03-30-2010, 10:09 AM #34
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- Nov 2009
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- warner robins ga
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sunset orange metallic- 2002 trans am ws6
i went with the kee audio set to replace all the speakers in my car imo,sounded like shit,paid over 350.for the speakers and to have them installed,in the end wasnt happy ordered the oe ac delco subs off e-bay and was real happy with those so i got used front door speakers and i swaped them out,and imo you cant beat the sound of the factory stuff,if any one needs the kee audio stuff .audiopipe subs,cdt components for the front and i think kenwood for the rears that are new never installed pm me i would love to sale these.thanks
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03-31-2010, 03:21 PM #35
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
I disagree on the can't beat factory stuff. I think my system has much better SQ than factory and it's not even half done. The biggest sore spot on my system is the low volume because the HU can't power the beefy components i have. Quality wise it's great. Though the rear channels stick out like a sore thumb thanks to their higher sensitivity and IMO they sound like garbage compared to the fronts.... it's quite the trick trying to balance them. Can't wait till I get rid of em and balance out my system.
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04-01-2010, 03:37 PM #36
ok after messing with my speakers and EQ all day, i wasnt able to get any of my mid rang or low bass levels to balance out. stopped down at my local chevy dealer and picked up delco replacement sail speakers ($59 commercial pricing) and put them in. wow, what a difference they made. back to the sound quality im used to.
now i dont totally blame the audiopipe subs, i just dont think putting in a true sub in that location with the the factory amp will ever sound good. they just dont balance out. now with an aftermarket amp, those little subs would sound great. prob the best way to go if you want more bass would be to go with a stealth box in the hatch.
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04-01-2010, 03:46 PM #37
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04-02-2010, 05:06 AM #38
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- Ohio (Union county)
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Pewter- 2002 T/A WS-6
I'm agreeing with Mid's seem to be gone and cant balance, I'm most likely going to pull the audiopipes back out and go with the AC Delcos.
I also agree with the concepts that if you replaced it ALL you can achieve great things, but replacing pieces you seem to be better off sticking with stock. all just IMO
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